Cam questions... 01 fxdl

[Scruffman]

Mr Dolt... You are the man...
I know that I can do this, because anyone that can do a tune up on a Mazda tribute or Ford escape is very capable... They said that it'd take four hours and I did it in two and a half...
So this will be a toss up as to what to do...

With the noise from the cam chest, is it a crap shoot as to when it will let go?

 

[dolt]

Mr Dolt... You are the man...
I know that I can do this, because anyone that can do a tune up on a Mazda tribute or Ford escape is very capable... They said that it'd take four hours and I did it in two and a half...
So this will be a toss up as to what to do...

With the noise from the cam chest, is it a crap shoot as to when it will let go?

Exactly; that is the risk. I have two early models and cam tensioners went at 12K miles on the '05 and at 25K miles on the '02. However, there are plenty that make 50K miles with no issue. You can check them at 19K miles and they look OK, normal wear, and the disintegrate at 22K miles, plug up the oil pump, oil pressure drops to 0 and before you know it, your top end is toast.

If you decide to take the project on as a DIY project; I as well as others, can help prep for the project and keep you from making beginner missteps along the way. You just need to decide the scope of the project, R/R tensioners only; add cams to the tensioner R/R; upgrade to hydraulic; change to gear drive cams, etc. Once you have made that decision, we can get into parts, tools, means and methods.

 

[Scruffman]

One more question . . . If the run out is greater than .3 , if you still installed gears would it be wise?
What are or could the results be?

Or should I just go with the se hydraulic or woods hydraulic ?

Ready to order parts and really want to get it right

 

[dolt]

One more question . . . If the run out is greater than .3 , if you still installed gears would it be wise? What are or could the results be? Or should I just go with the se hydraulic or woods hydraulic ?

You have never provided the model year of the bike or I just missed it. If '99-'03 I am betting runout is less than .003" (not .300"). The worst years for HD cranks were '04 and '07. I have two, my '02 FLHT measured .001" and my '05 FXSTD measured .0025". .003" runout is the guideline for running gear drive cams. However, I have set them up at .004" to .0045" but used undersize pinion gears to avoid binding. This meant that the gears might make a bit more noise because to retain the minimum specified lash means that there will be a couple of spots where the gear lash is greater than the max. No big deal, just makes the gear setup generate a little more noise.

I am betting that your runout is less than .003"; you have to check. I would run gears if possible and eliminate any future worries about cam chain tensioners.....

 

[Scruffman]

Thought I did give the year? It's an 01 fxdl

My thoughts too. . . But there's always that possibility of a higher number . So I looked into Andrews conversion , even called them. They no longer make theirs, so next is S/E or the Woods conversion , but with his you have to buy all his parts. . . Same price as gears,
But a nice guy to speak with .

 

[Jack Klarich]

Listen to dolt, he gets it right all the time cept calling me Jeff HAAAA Good info here thanks dolt

 

[TQuentin1]

I had an '03 UC that I did the roller chain conversion on as shown below. None of the sets that were available then are still available. But the process would be similar if you are sticking with chain drive. See here:

http://www.hdtimeline.com/threads/tqs-engine-build.13001/

If the links in that thread do not work, let me know. We are blocked from the linked site here at work.

Cheers,

TQ

 

[dolt]

My thoughts too. . . But there's always that possibility of a higher number . So I looked into Andrews conversion , even called them. They no longer make theirs, so next is S/E or the Woods conversion , but with his you have to buy all his parts. . . Same price as gears, but a nice guy to speak with .

Andrews had to stop selling theirs as it was all HD parts except the cams. You have three options to convert to the later hydro roller chain cam drive.

1. You can purchase all the parts for the conversion except the cam from an online HD discount dealer like Newcastle, Surdyke, etc. and a set of conversion cams from the vendor of your choice. The attached parts list is all you need; it came from the Andrews site.
2. You can purchase the SE billet plate upgrade kit (PN 25282-11) for the '07 up models which included the plate and pump and you can purchase all the ancillary parts, i.e., chains, tensioners, etc. from an online discount dealer to complete the kit. Still need the conversion cams.
3. You can purchase the SE Hybrid kit (PN 25284-11) for the upgrade. The inner link Morse chain is retained to run the early OEM style cams (no conversion cams required).

Check your runout and if within limits, gears is your best option. I am betting your runout is less than .002" in you '01; hot forged crank, Timken left side crank bearing make for a near bullet proof lower unit.

 

[Scruffman]

Yeah. I always search website pages when joining , and even ask the same questions for the tenth time , and there are those who aren't helpful then there's the people like Dolt and yourself who are always helpful . . . .
Thank y'all for being understanding and patient with your help.

 

[dolt]

Listen to dolt, he gets it right all the time cept calling me Jeff HAAAA Good info here thanks dolt

Apologies, did not know I made that mistake.