Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement
- Thread starter One For The Road
- Start date
dolt
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="03Twinkie]Is it not advisable to turn the engine from the cam-side crank pinion, maybe by inserting proper size bolt along with some rubber washer to provide cushioning? Assuming of course transmission in neutral and spark plugs removed.[/QUOTE]
Not adviseable; a lot of load to put on that 3/8 x 16 fastener but never tried it. Nowhere in the service manual is there any instruction to rotate the crank that way and there are several "specialty" tools for rotating the crank from the compensator side of the crankcase which indicates, to me anyway, that would be the proper side from which to rotate the crank. I have always rotated the crank from the compensator side when working on a motor on the bench, i.e., checking valve to piston clearance with a Trock tool, checking deck height, checking squish, etc.
Why not rotate via the rear wheel like most do? Actually, to center and align the oil pump, you only need to rotate through a couple of revolutions with two of the oil pump fasteners finger snug and with a piston at TDC where the resistance is highest, just "bump" the
crank back and forth at that point and tighten the two fasteners.
Not adviseable; a lot of load to put on that 3/8 x 16 fastener but never tried it. Nowhere in the service manual is there any instruction to rotate the crank that way and there are several "specialty" tools for rotating the crank from the compensator side of the crankcase which indicates, to me anyway, that would be the proper side from which to rotate the crank. I have always rotated the crank from the compensator side when working on a motor on the bench, i.e., checking valve to piston clearance with a Trock tool, checking deck height, checking squish, etc.
Why not rotate via the rear wheel like most do? Actually, to center and align the oil pump, you only need to rotate through a couple of revolutions with two of the oil pump fasteners finger snug and with a piston at TDC where the resistance is highest, just "bump" the
crank back and forth at that point and tighten the two fasteners.
03Twinkie
Member
Not adviseable; a lot of load to put on that 3/8 x 16 fastener but never tried it. Nowhere in the service manual is there any instruction to rotate the crank that way and there are several "specialty" tools for rotating the crank from the compensator side of the crankcase which indicates, to me anyway, that would be the proper side from which to rotate the crank. I have always rotated the crank from the compensator side when working on a motor on the bench, i.e., checking valve to piston clearance with a Trock tool, checking deck height, checking squish, etc.
Why not rotate via the rear wheel like most do? Actually, to center and align the oil pump, you only need to rotate through a couple of revolutions with two of the oil pump fasteners finger snug and with a piston at TDC where the resistance is highest, just "bump" the
crank back and forth at that point and tighten the two fasteners.
[/QUOTE]Thank you Dolt. I’m not opposed to jacking up the bike, but I don’t like leaving it jacked up for any length of time, like I had to when I fixed the front fork seals. You nailed it on why. I’m planning on doing the S&S cam plate, hydraulic tensioners and oil pump and will thus need to rotate the engine to align the gerotors. I don’t plan on opening up the primary side as that’s all good to go since I recently had to replace the stator. I figured it’s just not advisable because I can’t see any other reason not too and I haven’t found anyone that ever has (nor specifically advised against it). I was trying to find the obvious like fitment, rotational direction, etc. besides over stressing. Thank you again.
Ken
dolt
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="03Twinkie]Thank you Dolt. I’m not opposed to jacking up the bike, but I don’t like leaving it jacked up for any length of time, like I had to when I fixed the front fork seals. You nailed it on why. I’m planning on doing the S&S cam plate, hydraulic tensioners and oil pump and will thus need to rotate the engine to align the gerotors. I don’t plan on opening up the primary side as that’s all good to go since I recently had to replace the stator. I figured it’s just not advisable because I can’t see any other reason not too and I haven’t found anyone that ever has (nor specifically advised against it). I was trying to find the obvious like fitment, rotational direction, etc. besides over stressing. Thank you again.
Ken[/QUOTE]
Assume your are also upgrading the inner cam bearings as well but, if not, consider incorporating that upgrade in the project. The rear wheel only has to clear the floor; not sure why jacking up the bike is a problem. If using a scissor jack located under the frame cross member the bike will be stable; I have had one of my bikes sit in that position, on a lift, for days. If worried about stability, just get a ratcheting tie down and snug the bike to the scissor jack; it won't be going anywhere.
The oil pump alignment is simply centering the pump on the pinion shaft and aligning the gerotor flats to the pinion flats. It doesn't require much rotation to accomplish that. I forgot to include using the alignment pins to assist in the oil pump alignment. The pins will center the pump on the pinion shaft but, IMHO, may not align the gerotor flats to the pinion flat, so, again, JMHO, a bit of rear wheel rotation is still required. Being a "belt and suspenders" type, I use both the pins and rotation. If the only rotation required was for the purpose of pump alignment, rotating from the pinion side (plugs out and trans in neutral would probably not present any problems; your call. However, even if you have retained the OEM pushrods, you will also need to rotate the rear wheel to set pistons at TDC to re-install the push rods and rocker support plate. All the more reason to avoid rotating from the pinion side IMHO.
A couple of suggestions for your consideration. Get the alignment pins from Georges Garage as well as a remote start button that connects to the starter. Plugs out, trans in top gear (5th or 6th), use the remote start button to turn the motor over when necessary to complete the project.
Ken[/QUOTE]
Assume your are also upgrading the inner cam bearings as well but, if not, consider incorporating that upgrade in the project. The rear wheel only has to clear the floor; not sure why jacking up the bike is a problem. If using a scissor jack located under the frame cross member the bike will be stable; I have had one of my bikes sit in that position, on a lift, for days. If worried about stability, just get a ratcheting tie down and snug the bike to the scissor jack; it won't be going anywhere.
The oil pump alignment is simply centering the pump on the pinion shaft and aligning the gerotor flats to the pinion flats. It doesn't require much rotation to accomplish that. I forgot to include using the alignment pins to assist in the oil pump alignment. The pins will center the pump on the pinion shaft but, IMHO, may not align the gerotor flats to the pinion flat, so, again, JMHO, a bit of rear wheel rotation is still required. Being a "belt and suspenders" type, I use both the pins and rotation. If the only rotation required was for the purpose of pump alignment, rotating from the pinion side (plugs out and trans in neutral would probably not present any problems; your call. However, even if you have retained the OEM pushrods, you will also need to rotate the rear wheel to set pistons at TDC to re-install the push rods and rocker support plate. All the more reason to avoid rotating from the pinion side IMHO.
A couple of suggestions for your consideration. Get the alignment pins from Georges Garage as well as a remote start button that connects to the starter. Plugs out, trans in top gear (5th or 6th), use the remote start button to turn the motor over when necessary to complete the project.
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03Twinkie
Member
Yes, planning on putting in Torrington B-148.
Being a Dyna it's got that fin that hangs below the frame which limits jack choices and positions. I've only ever jacked up the front, not the back nor both. With the front up, I can rely on the rear being in gear to keep the bike from rolling. But I'll look in to this and jack it up and rotate manually (not with the starter if I can) in 5th (stock tranny) as opposed to rotating from the cam chest side. I just don't want to monkey with it right now since it's Bike Week here in AZ. Afterward, it'll be time to tear in to it.
I am planning on getting the pins, but S&S instruction just calls for rotation and progressive tightening: "Use loctite sparingly on pump screws. Be careful not to get excess loctite between the pump half’s or in the pump gear bores as damage could occur. While rotating the engine, alternately tighten bolts 1 and 2 (shown in squares) until the bolts are snug. Tighten bolts 3 and 4 until they are snug. Finally, torque the four bolts in the sequence shown in to 100 in-lbs. This procedure ensures that the oil pump is properly centered."
Thank you again, Ken