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Bleeding Brakes

Just got done installing new Magnum Shielding brake line today. Seemed to be taking FOREVER to bleed. A buddy gave me a tip to remove the caliper, tilt till the bleeder is the very highest point in the system, depress brake handle and bungee closed, then slowly vent the bleeder and tap it a few times before tightening. It seems that they are notorious for getting air pockets trapped above the bleeder. I tried it and within 3 bleeds it was done. Solid as a rock! GREAT TIP!!! Thanks Rocky, wherever you are!
 
The cap should say what DOT number to use. I just get the best I can find at the parts store. This time it was Prestone. Level should be about 1/8" below the rubber gasket. My bike has a little flat ledge inside. I fill it to that and call it good. I've noticed that much more than that and it overflows. Have fun.

After you bleed it a few times with no air escaping, don't forget to pump it up. Otherwise you will think that its not bleeding right... When you are all done, you should not be able to pull the brake handle all the way to the grip.
 
Brake fluid level should be on the high mark when the brake pads are new and near the low when they are needing replaced
otherwise if you fill to high with worn pads when you push the caliper piston in to replace the pads it will overflow

Brian
 
Bled my brakes yesterday after replacing the rear brakelight switch. Used the HF vacuum bleeder (brass one) and I must say it was a piece of cake. Ran about 3 volumes of fluid thru the system until the dischage was colorless. Fired her up and went for a test ride, pedal was firm, perhaps better than before, all A OK!
 
As the BullDog said...it is a lot better because YOU did it and saved about 2 Hours Shop Labor, Materials and Taxes (about $250...or so). Makes buying shop manual and other goodies with the money saved quick and easy. Smiles per mile does include personal satisfaction :D including the DIYer thang!
 
Gator, great feeling when you do it yourself better than the shop huh?

BullDog,
You betcha, and easier on the pocketbook too. Cheaper than the $50 deductible on warranty. The switch was $19.95 and fluid $7.95, knowing I did it myself and can pass on to others....priceless!!!
 
BullDog,
You betcha, and easier on the pocketbook too. Cheaper than the $50 deductible on warranty. The switch was $19.95 and fluid $7.95, knowing I did it myself and can pass on to others....priceless!!!

Indeed!

Bodeen
 
Right on! I've done some wrenching in the past. Took small engines, welding, and machining in High School; 6 years working on Intruder and Prowler weapon systems in the Corps; owned my own truck for a while and had to wrench on that; but had never worked on my own HD until this winter. The warranty scared me more than anything. But in november I got a flat tire and that lead me to an almost engine-off rebuild. I have learned a TON on here! The build will be done in a couple weekends, I'll post some pics then.

Good work on the brakes! You'll be a full-on complete Harley man before you know it!
 
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