belt tracking?
- Thread starter flhrrider
- Start date
Hoople
Account Removed
Mine did track to the outside and I found the rear wheel alignment was slightly off. It does not take much for belt tracking to be off. I did not not look up your belt adjustment but it is that loose?
I did not realize there was a correct direction or drift in belt tracking. The FL shop manual may go deeper into belt tracking but the FX manual does not say anything about what is considered to be normal tracking. I would have thought no direction or drift would have been ideal. (?)
That's what I now have. The belt does not run dead center but it also does not hug either side of the pulley.
I did not realize there was a correct direction or drift in belt tracking. The FL shop manual may go deeper into belt tracking but the FX manual does not say anything about what is considered to be normal tracking. I would have thought no direction or drift would have been ideal. (?)
That's what I now have. The belt does not run dead center but it also does not hug either side of the pulley.
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Yep. when I loosen everything up and adjust the belt it tracks to the outside. Torque the cone nut to 25ft lbs it's OK. Bring the torque to 50 ft lbs it starts to track toward the center. At 75 ft lbs it's on the inside. BTW it's an '08 so I can't tweet the sides individually.
The good news is that my J and S jack is great. It weighs 93 lbs. and is steady as a rock. It's really a strange feeling to push the bike around the garage with it 3 feet in the air.
As to the belt I guess I'll ride it and see what happens.
flhrrider
The good news is that my J and S jack is great. It weighs 93 lbs. and is steady as a rock. It's really a strange feeling to push the bike around the garage with it 3 feet in the air.
As to the belt I guess I'll ride it and see what happens.
flhrrider
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
NOW Hold on here..... YOU Can adjust the sides to do what you want..
The TRICK= now note, this is ONLY suggested and I do have patten pend. rights here!
*Cut a small piece Shim Stock ??.010 .020 or less or more to do the job..
For you, it needs to be placed on the right side and shim-out the rear cam using the ? size shim then when finished you can bend it over or what-ever to make it look good.
*Remember you can cut it just wide enough to stay between the cam adjuster and the Strike plate.
If formed properly, it will stay with the strike plate and not even be noticed.
Now you got MY IDEA! Let me know how it works..
signed....BUBBIE
Bubbie, thank you for the "Patent Pending" suggestion...so simple...when wheel spacers are not quite right to get the alignment right...use SHIMS! Silly why one does not think the obvious in the heat of battle. Sure saves a lot of "machine" work and elbow grease fabricating and "working" it in to get it right. I have done the round about way, just because I could, not because it was "SMART" there is a genius in there waiting to get out...LOL (I think I hear my inner voice talking now). 
elao
elaoThere is also slight play in the nut side cam. Depending on what bias is needed, adjusting the belt from too loose to just right, the nut side cam will be slightly behind the the head side cam. Adjusting the belt from too tight to just right, the nut side cam will be follow but remain on the tighter side of play lag. This can also slightly change wheel/chassis alignment just a bit. I don't recall the shop manual recommending one way or the other for setting belt tension. Mine seems to track on the inside, I have gotten the belt to run in the center but the wheel is too far from proper chassis alignment for normal adjustment to correct. I now just live with the inside tracking.
I was finally able to get it to track outside consistently. (I had 2 rear flats in one week). I put a 1/8 inch shim between the axle cam stop on the right side. I have to adjust from loose to tight. If I over tighten it's back it all the way off and try again. Torque with the shim in place then remove the shim. 3K miles and still tracks outside.
flhrrider
flhrrider