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99' FLHRC-I Shut Down Problem

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99RoadKingClassic

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I have a problem with my 99 FLHRCI shutting down. I replaced the Idle Control Solenoid and thought the problem was fixed, but it came back. The motorcycle starts just fine when cold. Best I can tell it goes through all the start-up sequences just fine. I turn it on, hear the fuel pump energize, the idle solenoid actuates, I start the bike, it runs on cold idle, drops down, but then shuts off after just a minute or so.

I had the problem before and found out the Idle Control Solenoid was bad so I replaced it. Right after I started the bike with the new part, it sat there and ran for a good 45 minutes. I rode it around town and put some miles on it. Two days later I was going to go buy fuel and it shut off before I cleared my drive way.

At this point I have taken apart, cleaned, and greased my electrical connections with silicone dielectric compound. I have changed positions on my relays to eliminate the chance of a bad start/run relay. I also replaced the 40 amp breaker under the seat, and I replaced the cam position sensor.

I tried to read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes, but they flash so fast I can't seem to nail it.

Does anyone have any idea what else I can check? I am told that if the Crank Position Sensor were bad the bike wouldn't even start, and ditto for the ECM. The bike starts up perfect, goes through the warm up sequence, then just shuts down. I'm lost at this point.
 
Thnx for the tip. I checked for that. The 99 FLHRCI uses rubber hoses and they are routed differently from the models with the plastic looking lines.

I'm afraid that I may have a bad ecm. I tried reading the codes at night when they show up better. Whatever code it is I'm getting, there are a lot of blinks involved. The ECM would be 52,53,54, or 55. I'm also wondering if when I changed out the defective Idle solenoid, I changed the setting for the Throttle Position Sensor enough to throw it off. According to the manual (I finally bought one) the only three sensors that will keep the bike from running are the crank position (CKP), cam position (CMP), or the TPS.

What frustrates me the most is that after I changed out the bad Idle Solenoid I actually rode the bike around town and put quite a few miles on it. It never missed a beat.

glider said:
Your best bet is to try to read the codes. It gets expensive to throw parts at it.
Click to expand...
I know you work on them a lot, is it possible I threw the setting off for the Throttle Positoin Sensor when I replaced the ISC? And if so, would that cause me to shut down at idle?
 
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If I remember correctly, your 99 has an adjustable TPS with elongated slots in it (Morelli FI). It is very possible that the TPS values are off and causing you a problem now with stalling.
They would have to be set to the correct value to eliminate the problem if it is coming from the TPS. Temporarily, you could center the adjustment in the TPS to see if it gains you anything followed by the correct setting after that. The value for the TPS on most is in the 4.0 + volt range at idle measured with a DVOM.

Here's something else to consider in regards to the idle which would make more sense due to what you said in the first post about warm and cold idle..

Setting Idle On MM Systems - Harley Davidson Community
 
You are correct: The Throttle Position Sensor on the 99 Twin Cam does have elongated slots. I happened up on the hot/warm & cold idle set procedure in my manual tonight. I'm going to try that before I move the TPS. A previous post I read says to unplug the ET Sensor when I set the cold idle, but according to HD I'm supposed to unplug the Idle Speed Control Actuator, not the ET sensor. I'll try that tomorrow and keep you posted on the results.
 
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