free website stats program '89 evo heads | Page 2 | Harley Davidson Forums

'89 evo heads

Thanks for all the comments. I really do appreciate the knowledge and experience represented here. So I guess I'll be ordering some new studs and nuts. This thread also reignited a concern I had regarding the oil pump. About a month ago I removed the oil tank to give it a thorough flush and cleaning. Some really nasty stuff came out of the bottom, it made me think that this was the first time it had ever been cleaned. Of coarse I thought about the oil pump, but only until I got to the part in the manual that said I needed a special tool to reinstall it.
 
Quite frankly, I'd for-go the studs IF tight. That motor sounded like someone doing OTHER than Proper torquing of the heads. I would Not use loc-tite on the head nuts. I had a 97 (yes much newer but an evo).

Lots of spending your money here:D yet GOOD answeres...

Your call of course.

Sounds like a good find AND winter Project.

signed....BUBBUE
 
Thanks for all the comments. I really do appreciate the knowledge and experience represented here. So I guess I'll be ordering some new studs and nuts. This thread also reignited a concern I had regarding the oil pump. About a month ago I removed the oil tank to give it a thorough flush and cleaning. Some really nasty stuff came out of the bottom, it made me think that this was the first time it had ever been cleaned. Of coarse I thought about the oil pump, but only until I got to the part in the manual that said I needed a special tool to reinstall it.
What special tool? Can you be more specific
 
Harley Davidson Forums Have a read here, these tools are special but not needed unless the seat for the check ball is bad, you can fashion a lapping tool with an old push rod and a bearing welded to the end. Using some lapping compound you can relap the seat. Other than that a good snap ring pliers and new snap rings and seal kit and you can remove and replace your pump, taking care not to lose or knock off the inner woodruf key that drives the pump. If you have the cam cover off already now is the time to pull the pump for an overhaul JMO
 
The only special tool I use for oil pump R/R is the Pinon Shaft Nut removal/install socket. You can get around it though. A pinion gear remover/installer is also handy. You can get both from Georges garage, he's one of the sponsors here. Both need to be off to re-align the pump when reinstalling.
As HDDon said check your inner cam bearing. I would replace it because of time sitting. It is a Torrington bearing though, not a Timken. The Torrington has twice as many bearings as the factory INA bearing. It's cost is only 10-15 bucks.
tourbox
 
Lots to think about here, that's for sure. Currently I'm still cleaning years of caked on grime from the motor and cylinders before reinstalling. I'm a one thing at a time kind of guy, so I'll finish this before I do anything else.
It was not having this alignment tool that made me pause on oil pump.I'll definitely be rebuilding this before summer comes along. I'm sure I have at least three more months.

On a motor that seems prone to having at least a little vibration, why would using locktite on the head bolts be frowned on?
 
Lots to think about here, that's for sure. Currently I'm still cleaning years of caked on grime from the motor and cylinders before reinstalling. I'm a one thing at a time kind of guy, so I'll finish this before I do anything else.
It was not having this alignment tool that made me pause on oil pump.I'll definitely be rebuilding this before summer comes along. I'm sure I have at least three more months.

On a motor that seems prone to having at least a little vibration, why would using locktite on the head bolts be frowned on?

JUSY My Way.... Others here Might not feel that way.????

I have Not had any problems with mine (97 evo) and others I did work on.... I did rebuild my 97 several different times, never found the need...Mine and Others I worked on Coming apart feeling tight and going together with only a Light oily thread. Heck, I never even used Copper anti seize on any of my nut/bolts on the heads...

I guess It is "Just My Way".

signed....BUBBIE
 
I agree with BUBBIE on NO LOCKTITE. You use heat to loosen over applied bolts & nuts with locktite, hence the heat of the motor would keep it soft. I do use anti-seize on Shovel head bolts. Never had a problem with that. Lightly oil the threads of the studs, but don't get any on top of the stud. It will cause a hydraulic action and eventually loosen.
tourbox
 
I have had the heads off my 93 and 94 sportsters and the 94 dyna refitted as per the service manual without issues they were done a few years ago I no longer have the 94 sportster but the other 2 are fine some 5 years + later

Brian
 
Back
Top