2002 FLHRCI - engine code 23 - front injector open/low

[200RoadKingWP]

Hey All,

I had some sputtering and misifiring in 1st, 2nd, and some of 3rd gear (and check engine light) recently on my trip to Laconia. I was able to pull the code and got code 23, front injector open/low. From the research here, it most likely is the common problem of the injector wire being wrapped too tight and causing internal problems. All the symptoms are there, but I will try the wiggle test tonight.

My question is...has anyone out there fixed this problem before themselves, and if so, were you able to remedy it without removing the gas tank completely? What was your process?

I just dropped a few hundred on a new rear tire so I am trying to fix this one on my own. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[Hoople]

I have never done the job myself but I can't imagine being able to do it correctly without removing the tank. There just isn't much room from the sides to get your hands in there with tools or a soldering iron.
I would take the tank off and do both injectors while your in there. The other one is probably not far behind.

 

[RibEye]

I would not try to be a contortionist, trying to do the job with the tank on. I solved the tank issue, long ago, by installing a crossover quick-disconnect. They are available on eBay, from the fellow that used to sell the hydro cam chain tensioner kits we liked so much. The quick disconnect is a bit pricey (~$50), but once you have installed it, you will sing its praises every time you need to work under the tank. You can remove the tank without draining it, and reinstall it fully fueled.

Now to the injector issue...I had your problem, and it was a bad crimp in the injector connector. It had to be moved just so to cause the open, so it took me a long time to find it, until I finally removed the tank, and checked the assy with a meter in continuity beep mode. Yours could be caused by an open or intermittent anywhere from the ECM to the injector. My vote is for a wire break, inside the insulation, at or near the injector.

Good luck,
Rich P

 

[200RoadKingWP]

Thanks for the input. I have decided to remove the tank. It seems the most difficult part is the crossover, which doesn't seem too bad...pump the tank out, pull the crossover, and then disconnect the rest of the electronics via the harnesses.

I went out today, fired the bike up and was able to manipulate the front injector wire to replicate the problem I have been having. Seems as if it is near the connector.

Did you replace the entire wire? or part of it?

I found another post that showed a replacement part for this, that is just a portion of the wire. I suppose I will know more when I take the tank off and can see inside. Thanks again.

Andy

 

[RibEye]

For me, the connector was part of the harness that was part of the TFI fuel control I had installed. Dobeck took the TFI back and gave me a discount on the GEN3 fuel control.

For you, I would replace the wire, starting well back in the wire bundle, up to the connnector, and if you can extract the pin from the connector, replace the pin. I do not know what parts of the injector harness are field replaceable. For me, they all are, but I am an engineer. Your mileage may vary. I do not know what level of detail HD makes available. My guess is they won't go lower than a whole harness. If the break is far enough back for a successful splice, you might be able to splice in a length of high temp wire, and cover it with a good high temp sleeving. Just know that the the two actual connection points for the splice will be inflexible, and may be prone to break again, due to engine dancing.

Good luck,
Rich P

 

[200RoadKingWP]

I'm good to go. I found more internet chatter on this issue and found the connector at a local GM dealer. The injector wire is the same injector wire on 2.8 and 3.1 liter GM engines from 1986-2008. 10 Dollar Part. Took the tank off and spliced in the new wires and connector and it seems to be working perfectly. Thanks again for the input.