1984 FXRSDG shuts down

[pnew122]

Ok-Sounds like I need to do a test. Can you explain it to me like I'm 2 years old? Seriously. I've meessed with house electric running wires, but nothing like this.

What is B+ input?

And where is the ignition module?

I found this pic but don't recall seeing anything like this unless it's under one of the chrome side covers just below the seat?

Dual Fire 7 Pin Connector Ignition Module for 1984-1994 Harley Big Twin & XL Sportster - www.debrix.com

I'm assuming you are talking about using a straight line of wire, with a bulb in the middle. Connect one end to point A (B+input) and the other to the ignition module?

Once it pops just make sure the light is lit. If not my ignition module is bad?

Thanks
Paul

PS-Just a guess makes me also feel like it's elec since it's as if everything just drops. Like hitting the kill switch.

 

[Hoople]

I'm assuming you are talking about using a straight line of wire, with a bulb in the middle. Connect one end to point A (B+input) and the other to the ignition module?

Once it pops just make sure the light is lit. If not my ignition module is bad?

Thanks

Your close. Straight wire with a bulb in the middle . Connect one end to Frame Ground and the other end to the supply voltage wire going to ignition module (right at the module). If the light is lit, then there must be power going to the ignition module.
That would eliminate all the wiring up to that point along with the ignition switch.
It won't eliminate the ignition module itself but you need to take one step at a time.

It sure sounds like electrical to me since you said it backfires and you said you smelled gas. It can also be a "Trigger" issue for the ignition module. Take it one step at at time.
What type of Trigger does your ignition module use.?

(B+ is just another name for Battery positive)

 

[pnew122]

Hi,

Thanks for hanging in there w/me. Memory says the module is a sealed unit, w/wires coming out the left and right side. One goes to the starter I believe, and the other to the side of the motor where to get access, you need to drill out the rivets?

As for the smell of gas, I believe they fixed that since some sort of plastic coupling was leaking, now fixed. And I put the new fuel line on so that eliminates any sort of cracks there. I'll take some pics tonight.

Paul

(B+ is just another name for Battery positive)

Gotcha!!!

 

[CliffBuzzHD1]

My 01 Road Glyde pulled a nasty similar one day. As I came down the on ramp on to the interstate, I usually put the fuel to it to get my interstate speed real close before merging, Well this particular time it coughed and just did not feel right (or normal operation). I traveled about 14 of the 16 miles to my destination and it had coughed twice but kept running then it died. Pulled over to the side, tried to crank it up and bingo away I went, about 10 ft and died. Never did start. Had my bud pull be with his Willy's Jeep to his house 1.3 miles, far enough. Took it to the local shop and they found and replaced under the extended warranty, the fuel lines had rotted with about 24,000 miles on it. Said maybe due to excell ethinol in the fuel I was using. Just not sure. Anyway there is my story.:rofl

 

[Hoople]

Memory says the module is a sealed unit, w/wires coming out the left and right side.

Paul, not according to the link you posted that shows the ignition module you are using. Looks to me like just one cable assembly coming out of it. One of those wire is Battery positive or battery supply. That's the wire I want you to tap into with your bulb. No need to drill any rivets. No need to open the module up.
It said the module/kit came with instructions. Would you still have them. Most likely the directions tells you which wire is Ground, which is trigger, which is battery positive, which is tach output, ignition enable, etc etc.

That would be a great starting point to determine what's happening when your bike fails. It's a quick & dirty way to eliminate several possibilities of why the engine is breaking down.

Do you know how the ignition module is triggered. Points, magnetic reluctance, photo cell, crank trigger,,etc etc. (?)

 

[pnew122]

Hi Hoople

My bad. I should have said the pic was what I found on the internet. What's on the bike is original. I uploaded a pic from my manual. Went to Wallymart tonight, and picked up a nice size RED light with 2 wires. Saw a few freaky people of course. Feel pretty confident I will have no trouble hooking it up as you say. Dats my plan 1st thing in the morning. Again, really appreciate all your help. It amazes me how much stuff is on a car and on a bike. Equally amazing is people like you who know how it all works. Like I say I'm a jack of ALL trades and master of none, but have never neeeded to tinker with the bike. But not @ all afraid to try/learn.

CliffBuzzHD1
Jeepers. Just when I thought my list was dwindling. Me guesses then if I choose to do the rest of my lines (not a bad idea) there is 1 going from lrft side of tank to right, and maybe a couple from/to the carb. Will take a peek see tomorrow. Still hoping it's electrical and simple.

Thanks guys.

-----------------------------------------

On 2nd thought as I look @ that pic. Couldn't I hook 1 wire to the double terminal wire that goes to the coil, and the other to ground? That looks to be the + side, but not sure. That would be really easy. I even had the coil and cover off loosening and tightening the nuts and making sure they were clean.

 

[pnew122]

Ok-Got some data. Recap to this point brief. New fuel line from tank to carb, and tightened all nuts for exaust (leak). If I'm correct I ran 1 side of my wire from the coil B+ side, and attached the ground to the bolt (tried another spot but no light) running through the front bracket of the gas tank. Got red light when ignition on!

I originally thought the problem was when the headlight was on "only". I rode through town bout a 1/2 mile and went out of town (55-60mph) for about 7 mi with the "headlight" ON. Started popping (red light still ON) but never stalled completely.

U turned and headed home with "headlight" OFF. Went bout 4 mi and while slowing for a red light it popped and cracked real loud (red light still on) and died completely. Ignition on and red light still on. Tried a few times. Would turn over but would not start. Played w/the choke a bit, then smelled some gas, so gave it a rest. After about 60-90sec, finally started. Drove the balance about 4 mi, came through town, stopped @ a light. Idling fine. All the sudden, just quit. Red light still on.

Waited bout 30sec, got it started, made it home. Least I didn't get stuck on the side of the road!!! Student is ready for next instruction please.

Paul

1st pic is my ignition module. 895

2nd is where I hooked it to the B+ side of the coil. 894

3rd is where I hooked the other end to the gas tank bolt. 896

4th. Light on. 897

5th. My boy said he is tired of me messing w/that bike. 885

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Well it sounds like you can pretty much rule out primary B+ being the issue. I can appreciate your frustration as it has been a good troubleshooting "exercise" to be sure. The next troubleshooting phase is to try to find intermittant in your driveway rather than road testing and risks associated with that!

Thinking it may be the "high voltage" side, meaning ignition coil or wires. May have to get a hair dryer or heat gun and test that coil...also test the ignition module (do not use too much heat to melt things). You are getting closer...!

 

[Hoople]

Adding to what NewHD has already suggested, I would maybe try this step. Remove the cover on the nose cone to expose the trigger electronics. Get a Hi-output hair dryer. With a helping hand from a Helper (picture #5) heat the nose cone electronics while the bike is running at idle . Hi Blow-High Heat & hit it hard. Start with everything being at a stone cold temperature. See if you can get the bike to break down using the hair dryer.

If no luck, Start once again with everything stone cold again but this time hit the ignition module with the Hi heat hair dryer. See what happens.

Like NewHD said,,, your getting closer.

 

[pnew122]

All right, progress.

By nose cone I assume you mean coil?

I assume I can remove the red light for these tests?

And if it's not the coil, shoot the module w/heat.

Got it. So to wrap my mind around this the assumption is the internal wiring in one of these 2 components gets hot, shorts on another wire internally on the component, and causes the break down?

I would think once the internal wires get fried and solder themselves together, it would run like (EDIT) ALL the time, but of course, I'm obviously not the expert here.

Going to rain tomorrow (I'm in Maryland) so me doubts I'll get anything else done this weekend. Thanks again guys.
Paul


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