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08 ultra classic charging issues

ontariobd

New Member
I have an 08 ultra that isn't charging. I checked the stator and have continuity between all 3 leads and approx 13VAC on any two of the leads pre voltage regulator. This suggests to me that my charging from the stator is good. at the voltage regulator put out, I have 14VDC. this suggests to me that the voltage regulator is good. at the battery, I have 11 VDC at the battery, or no charging to the battery.

I then checked for and have continuity on each lead to the battery (pos wire from the voltage regulator to the battery terminal and neg wire from the voltage regulator to the battery terminal. Battery disconnected)

Any ideas??
 
Your numbers are a bit off. Your VAC should be quite a bit higher.

What were the rpm's when testing.

Please retest and post new numbers.

You should not have 13 VAC going into regulator and 14 DC coming out.

There is an issue with the testing procedure or multimeter.
 
Making sure the charging system on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle is working properly is just a matter of following a step-by-step procedure. Here's what you need to know.

1. Battery Test
Standing battery Voltage should be 12.6-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires
Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to NO. 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.



4. AC Output Check:
  1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator.
  2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
  3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
  4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specifications)
  5. Generic Specs:
  6. 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  7. 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  8. 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Your DC output @ 14V coming out of regulator is good.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
From my foggy mind bank, AC voltage output is supposed to be X volts (16 ?) per 1000 rpm. VAC should increase with rpms.
 
Here is another copy, cut, and paste. Sorry, I'm at work and didn't have time to type out entire process.

Basically, you should not have 13 VAC coming from stator, should be higher. The numbers in these articles are close, but, not specific to your model.
You should also ensure the stator DOES NOT have continuity to chassis ground.


As for resistances on the stator with voltage regulator disconnected.
  • 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
  • 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  • 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
As for Ac voltage with the regulator disconnected.
  • 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  • 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  • 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
 
You didn't mention anything about the test of the battery.
Get it fully charge, let it sit for about 1/2 hr off charger and check the battery voltage and do a draw test it should be close to what the battery is rated at.
An internally shorted battery can affect the charging system.
 
You didn't mention anything about the test of the battery.
Get it fully charge, let it sit for about 1/2 hr off charger and check the battery voltage and do a draw test it should be close to what the battery is rated at.
An internally shorted battery can affect the charging system.
Thanks Joel,
I did mention battery in another post, it hasn't been approved by moderator. It was another, copy, cut, and paste. I was at work, so I was short on time. I was trying to help the original poster. Thanks for joining the cause Boss. I appreciate the added tip.
 
Jumping in here although you likely solved your issue by now.

In my experience, many folks tend to jump the gun coming to conclusions and replacing parts without doing careful testing, troubleshooting and problem isolation. This has proven to be true with most any technology not just Harley charging systems.

Glad to see you are indeed doing component level testing and intelligently isolating the bad actor.. I'd also add that most of the time a problem will turn out to be something ridiculously simple and often due to careless or long deferred routine maintenance.

In testing charging systems (in pretty much any vehicle) I put a VOM on the battery. Motor off the charge should be in the 12+ vdc range. It it's way low the battery could be too far gone to even take a charge.

All of my vehicles are always on a tender when not in use so if I have a weak battery problem I know about it pretty quickly. If in doubt, throw a load tester on the battery. They are dirt cheap at Harbor Freight.

Start the motor. If it fires up this is obviously good. The voltage should jump up to the 13+ vdc range. Measure the voltage from the battery posts AND the connections to the battery. If the voltage doesn't increase at all then you pretty much know where to go from there. Stator is easy enough to check as you know. So long as no one has been monkeying around inside the primary stators tend to be extremely reliable.

Regulators can fail in several ways. One is where one of the diodes has failed so instead of outputting clean DC it outputting only 50% of what it should be. This is very easily viewed on an oscilloscope. Yes, most people don't have one. Just be advised that just because the regulator is outputting power that does not mean that it's clean 14 VDC. If a diode (rectifier) is blown the actual DC output will be ~ half that.

Of all the components that could fail the regulator is the more likely and least expensive to replace. Many times a regulator will fail due to some event like creating a short circuit when replacing a starter. Ask me how I know....

But bear in mind that a bad connection somewhere in the circuit will cause the same symptoms. I did read that you checked that but perhaps not carefully enough? Very common for there to be a poor connection on one of the battery terminals. Especially true if you have more than one lug connected to either battery terminal.

Really clean up those lugs, terminals and connectors and use a little conductive grease on them when you reconnect everything. Give each wire a tug to ensure the crimp is tight.

All of the above is worth doing even if it doesn't resolve this particular problem. Seems like I've spent half my life troubleshooting bad grounding problems in anything that runs on electricity. Hope this helps.
 
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