HOLY DIVER
Junior Member
i'm off to do my hydraulic cam tensioner upgrade lol i bet TQ and KEMO will be glad i am finished so i'll stop asking questions lol 
Wish me luck
- Thread starter HOLY DIVER
- Start date
glidenwide
Member
You are in good hands with these guys. i had never done anything but service my bike before i did the conversion. I followed what they told me and had laid out and I did'nt have any trouble at all.
D
dbmg
Guest
Best of luck to you. Just remember to walk away when frustrated to alleviate additional headaches. And always ask questions if not sure. Very helpful bunch here.....
i'm off to do my hydraulic cam tensioner upgrade lol i bet TQ and KEMO will be glad i am finished so i'll stop asking questions lol
Fire away!! Always someone around to field questions. This stuff in the cam chest is pretty straight-forward. Only pointers are making sure the o-rings on mounting the pump to the plate don't get pinched, and then aligning the pump.
Other thing is to mount the new Torrington inner roller bearings so you read the side of the bearing from the right side of the bike! Use the tools to remove and reinstall these.
Adjusting the PRs, lots of info here on that.
Use lots of assembly lube and engine oil to have everything slicked up as you install. Change the oil pretty soon to get rid of all that stuff once it is running. I did it after 100 miles, but that is just me.
TQ
Hoople
Account Removed
A Question maybe someone will know the answer to. When installing New inner cam bearings, if you use the Genuine or correct tool, it will install the bearings to the correct depth. I realize that the design of the bearing pilot will install the bearing to the proper depth.
Since I have never see the bearing pilot tool, my question is after the bearing is installed to the proper depth, is the bearing Flush with the casting or is it slightly BELOW the casting height?
Since I have never see the bearing pilot tool, my question is after the bearing is installed to the proper depth, is the bearing Flush with the casting or is it slightly BELOW the casting height?
I used the tool (George's Garage) and just did it as it is supposed to be done. Did NOT measure after the fact, but eyeballing it, it looks flush with the countersunk lip. If it is resessed further, can't tell by looking. But you would not want it hanging out the other side either. My suggestion, use the tool. You can find them on eBay or elsewhere. I passed mine along here for $100 refundable (for the extractor, installer, and the sprocket jam) when returned. Guess he wanted to keep them, cause I never got them back. Check out the pix below.
TQ
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Hoople
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Thanks TQ for the info. It's people like this that ruin it for all of us. I wish there was a way to know who the dirt bags were from the Good people out there before you make a kind gesture.
jaxdwg
Active Member
You're right; I had a guy come to my shop and ask to borrow a 1 3/16" deep 12 point socket. I told him to leave me a 100.00 deposit and it would be returned upon my getting it back. He asked why so much, I said if you don't bring it back you will have one very expensive socket, he brought it back. I've been burned before so that is why I make the deposit so high, I always get them back now. once burned---twice cautious it's a shame you can't trust folks nowadays
TQ has you covered...as for assembly lube...in the past I used STP Oil Treatment from my old school days...it sticks to parts (it is a bit messy and sticky) that are assembled better than engine oil which runs a bit thin and drains off, but that is just me...