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WHAT A MESS ***A TFI and A HD RACE TUNER

BUBBIE

Well-Known Member
i was going to install a TFI on a 07 softail today...

ME NOT KNOWING ahead of time THAT the bike had been race tuned by hd shop.. OOOPPPSY!!!

I found the parts and paper work in saddle bag: HD tuner 459.$ and 4 hours dyno at 90$ an hour...dyno sheet.....

seemed to me bike should NOT run as hot and NOT be popping when letting off the throttle...(it does BOTH and that was the reason for the TFI)

MY REASON for TFI not knowing TUNER installed: the bike ran hot and seemed to be running lean , having 2 into 1 exhaust (fairly loud/low back pressure) and using a se air mod.

WHAT WOULD YOU DO NOW?????

CAN THE TFI STILL BE INSTALLED to correct the lean popping OR does the hd tuner NEED TO BE TUNED BETTER BY A PRIVATE SHOP??......

installing the TFI (bot)... will it over ride the HD tuner settings from stock ones??? not knowing how this works...

now with the race tuner being used, I don't know the settings hd used, if different than the STOCK ONES it came with??/ can the TFI STILL be used with this system???

looking at the paper work it showed the dyno results

77.13 max. power @ 5200 rpm

89.88 max torque @ 3700 rpm

then on the bottom air/fuel ratio graff

on line 14 ; a straight red --- line across page then showing a solid blue line at 2000 rpm falling off the red line enough to notice at 5650 rpm

the blue line stays on red line(fairly close) and in one spot drops 1/64" under red @ 26/32 hund rpm then back to even flow on red line until end, where it dips DOWN at 5650 to 6000 rpm....

I understand the power chart...but NOT the bottom air/fuel chart

pretty much the blue line stays really tight with the red ---- line across the page rpm range... a little above (whisker) and the same below here and there

what am i seeing and what does this blue line to red line tell?

DOES IT mean the fuel ratio was right in line with the rpm range...

I know i don't describe very well but see what you can do with this PROBLEM....

THANKS FOR THE HELP

OH WHY CAN"T MY FRIEND HAVE A CARB. BIKE!

signed....bubbie
 
Dude if you still have the tuner module and cd just read up on it and do it yourself. Way more adjustability with the race tuner!:s
 
Dude if you still have the tuner module and cd just read up on it and do it yourself. Way more adjustability with the race tuner!:s

YES HAVE tuner mod for her bike and cd..

I figured that HD race tuner would be a MORE ADJUSTABLE UNIT but the FRIEND never mentioned the tuner.....

MY thinking was she had done a one time stage one from HD...and I told her to get the TFI for her 07 softail... NOW that turned into a problem...

I can sell the TFI unused or ?return it. thats not a problem.

that was the basis from the start here. to cure over heat and pop (LEAN)

I not knowing the bottom graft on the dyno page and what it shows..

I'll probably take the run-out chart to the HD shop that performed the install and ask them about it...... it was done 12/2007 when her bike was NEW

she had all the stuff installed at HD so can't compare it with what is today... she says nothing is different from the time it was picked up by her...

I think it too lean

They(HD) will re-do the dyno to check the bike out again(chg 1/2 hour) but won't correct any settings without $$$$$$ for 4 hrs.

1/2 hr would be worth to see if too lean but i would go else where to change it..

I'm not computer savvy to change any thing on the bike... give me a carb. (old days)

signed....BUBBIE
 
I would remove the HD Tuner and the download and keep the TFI.



I have the tuner and cd but no use to me...

the race tuner is a little unit that plugs in to the BRAIN of the harley and just allows the HD to put IN what is needed to un-lean their system..... the tuner once it is used on a bike it has to stay with THAT bike.....
I think HD thought that out.... buggers $$$$$$$$$$

I don't think i would be able to get it back to original setting without going to harley... I think ONCE you've put it IN it won't come OUT without a notebook or a laptop.... none of this is up my alley...

maybe hd will do good if I go and PLEED

signed....bubbie

HOW does that HP and TQ. look for her bike???
THANKS walleye
 
then on the bottom air/fuel ratio graff

on line 14 ; a straight red --- line across page then showing a solid blue line at 2000 rpm falling off the red line enough to notice at 5650 rpm

the blue line stays on red line(fairly close) and in one spot drops 1/64" under red @ 26/32 hund rpm then back to even flow on red line until end, where it dips DOWN at 5650 to 6000 rpm....

I understand the power chart...but NOT the bottom air/fuel chart

what am i seeing and what does this blue line to red line tell?

DOES IT mean the fuel ratio was right in line with the rpm range...

signed....bubbie

Can you scan or take a picture of the graph and upload it so it can be seen.?

Hoop!

I don't think i would be able to get it back to original setting without going to harley...

That is true. You can not go back to what was on the bike when it was purchased. That map file is lost when a new one is written to the ECM.

Hoop!
 
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That is true. You can not go back to what was on the bike when it was purchased. That map file is lost when a new one is written to the ECM.

Hoop!

Hoop,
You mean to say that once you install a SERT, you cannot remove and go back to stock? I knew the SERT was married to a specific ride, but I did not know they could not remove and reprogram back to stock. I had a SERT on my last HD and swore never again due to the complex and expensive tuning it required. I did not know that it was forever. That just makes me even more certain never to go near a HD tuner again... EVER. :34:
 
Walleye,
Using a SERT, you can only Write to the ECM. You can not VIEW what any value (contents) is inside the ECM. The Maps (ignition, IAC, A/F ratio, VE tables, warm up tables, etc) that came in the ECM when the bike was purchased can not be copied prior to writing a New map.

Believe me, I tried. I wanted to save the Factory maps before I modified them but you can't.
Now if you happen to know what the "values" were in the factory maps, you could manually go in and change each one and put it back to stock. But who knows what those values are. (except people on the inside)..

Hoop!
 
Walleye,
Using a SERT, you can only Write to the ECM. You can not VIEW what any value (contents) is inside the ECM. The Maps (ignition, IAC, A/F ratio, VE tables, warm up tables, etc) that came in the ECM when the bike was purchased can not be copied prior to writing a New map.

Believe me, I tried. I wanted to save the Factory maps before I modified them but you can't.
Now if you happen to know what the "values" were in the factory maps, you could manually go in and change each one and put it back to stock. But who knows what those values are. (except people on the inside)..

Hoop!

WOW! SO once you go SERT you can't go back. You would think there would be a download for stock settings. I am glad you posted this. I bet most, if they knew this, would never put one on their ride. Almost like a communist! (Apple) LOL!! Thanks for the lesson Hoop!:D
 
I know what your saying, but why is it so important to be able to go back to factory stock. The closest canned Factory map you can always go back to is a Stage 1. Then you could go in and do a Global kick back on A/F and probably be pretty close to what was in the the bike when it was purchased. Not Perfect but probably for the most part it would be close. Look at some of the Stage 1 A/F maps. They are still very lean at cruise. Lets face it, the dealership can not make the bike not meet emissions on cruise CO & HC. It would be against the law. WOT is a different thing. For that short burst they can get away with it. Emission stations don't test emissions under WOT. But they do test under cruise.

Also, the ECM will ALWAYS be flagged as having been changed from factory virgin. Even if you were to put the original map back in, the ECM is Flagged that it was changed at one point in time.
 
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