Well ....
- Thread starter Cool Ride
- Start date
glazier
Junior Member
I wish you'd change your mind. I'd like to read your write up on the Gen3 install as I'm about to do it myself. Just do like was mentioned. Check the remember me box, or write it with a word processor and then copy/paste here.
Thanks.
YnotBiker
Active Member
Had the same problem when they upgraded the email system at work. We suddenly got logged out after 10 minutes of idle time. The fix was to select your writing and copy it before you left the computer. When you got back to the computer, you could sign in, start an email and paste your writing into the new message window.
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J
Jack Klarich
Guest
I would like to read about your install. I'm thinking of doing the GEN 3 myself. and would like all the help I can get.
Search Result - Harley Davidson Community You can read alot of info starting here:s
OK, I'll stop my pouting. But it was deserved. I'm somewhat over it, but I reserve the right to continue whining at a later date. I’ll compose in Word and save often.
THE BIKE: 2009 Street Bob, stock except 1.75” Rush mufflers & a K&N air filter in the stock housing. My HD dealer said that’s the largest baffles I could install without re-tuning the bike & I didn’t want that added expense. He said I might notice some backfiring when I roll off (& I did) but, other than that, It’ll be OK.
THE INSTALLATION: This went in two parts because Doebeck sent me a harness with the wrong fuel injector connectors for my bike the first time. I didn’t find this out until the harness was partially routed & I tried to mate the FI connectors. It wasn’t really much of a problem as they corrected it quickly enough, it was cold here & I wouldn’t be riding anyway and the first time is a learning experience anyway. Applied blue loctite to any screws/bolts that I installed or disturbed (experience).
INSTALL PART 1: removed the Tank & seat. I had never removed the gas tank from this bike (or one like it) before. That crossover tubing with the stock non removable clamps can dump some gas ! No big deal though.
Installed the wide range O2 sensor in place of the front stock O2 sensor. It appeared to have something like Anti-Seize already applied to the threads so I didn’t add or take away anything. Installed the air/fuel ratio gauge dead center of the handlebars with the supplied chrome handle bar mount.
There was a bundle of stock cables & connectors under the seat. I just lifted them up & untangled them to see where I could mount the Gen3 controller with the supplied Velcro. The controller is really small (maybe 2” x 3” x 1/4” thick : from memory). There was actually plenty of room to mount it and I felt the Velcro was sufficient for the size & weight of the controller. And I really doubt that it’s vibration sensitive. I found a nice home for it, cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and mounted it.
Now, the challenge was then to route the cables between the components. I found out that routing cables on a bike, neatly & securely, can be a real challenge. Doebeck supplied some detailed instructions - but not for my bike. It might be because they originally sent me the wrong kit or because this controller is a new release for my bike. But I’ve got 30 years of employment experience as a technician, mainly electronic, so I thought I could deal with this.
I don’t recommend, for my bike, routing any of the cables on the left side of the bike. That’s what I tried first. Difficult. Let’s get on to part 2 when I received the correct controller for my bike.
INSTALL PART 2: I spotted a gap behind the battery box that I could route the gauge & FI cables through but the connectors wouldn’t pass through. I decided to remove the battery & box. It worked real good (compared to the left side)! When I reinstalled the battery box, after all cables were routed and connected, I just had to be really observant that I didn’t pinch any cables. Behind the upper right side of the battery box it’s kind of tight - but there is enough room.
I then routed these cables along the upper frame member under the tank. There is a plastic channel to hang them in. I cable tied the new cables to the stock ones as needed.
Now the O2 sensor cable. It didn’t appear long enough to route with the other cables so I routed it along side a stock cable that ran along the lower right frame. Keeping it high & secure so as to not be damaged by a bike lift. I can’t remember exactly how I got from the controller to the bottom of the bike – but I got there.
The stock O2 sensor connector is contained in a plastic housing below the voltage regulator. I found out in PART 1 that the new connector and adapter won’t fit inside that housing. So I chose to cable tie the O2 cable to the left & right sides of the front lower frame and position the connector along the engine side of the plastic housing. This will shield it from road water spray from the front tire. I snapped the housing shut shielding the other stock connector that resides there.
The Gen 4 is installed now. I rechecked all the routing (especially for possible abrasion sites). Neat, secure. Reinstalled the battery box (cable pinching possibility mentioned above). Reinstalled battery, tank, seat.
Started her up – Gen 4 seemed operative. Couldn’t test ride ‘cause I had a dadgum nail in my tire (tubed). Another delay!
1st TEST DRIVE: I just observed the A/F meter initially – the gauge indicated that my bike was running rich. As I rode, I pulled over every once & awhile to tweak the A/F to the Doebeck recommended targets. This was surprisingly easy. I just pressed the mode button until the LED was lit that corresponded to the mode that I desired to adjust. Then I pressed the + or – button to move the analog gauges’ needle to the desired A/F ratio in that mode. Release & let the set mode expire …. And ride again.
I think my acceleration improved remarkably. In fact, while winding out in first gear I think I hit the HD high RPM cutout several times. I have never hit that before. I don’t have a tach so I can’t say for sure – but that’s my initial thought (hope) from my first ride. I hope to give it another short test ride this weekend but I won’t really get some good riding time until next spring.
I didn’t tweak the mode transition-points yet. I find it hard to visualize them even when referencing the Dobeck XY chart … with unlabeled axes. But I’m thinking … LOAD BASED …. So, I think the transition points are load based also – but I’ll play with them next riding season.
MY OPINION: Ya know, HD could build self-tuning ability into their bikes. But HD and every 3rd party vendor would lose a high $ market. It’s a marketing game that has nothing to do with the available technology. I have a love-hate relation ship with HD.
I am initially very happy with the Gen 4. It constantly gives me data that I’ve never had before. And I can tweak my A/F at will – without a laptop and without HD. I have been empowered!
ADDITIONAL WHINING: How’d you like to compose that & then loose it! I hope it’s helpful to someone.
THE BIKE: 2009 Street Bob, stock except 1.75” Rush mufflers & a K&N air filter in the stock housing. My HD dealer said that’s the largest baffles I could install without re-tuning the bike & I didn’t want that added expense. He said I might notice some backfiring when I roll off (& I did) but, other than that, It’ll be OK.
THE INSTALLATION: This went in two parts because Doebeck sent me a harness with the wrong fuel injector connectors for my bike the first time. I didn’t find this out until the harness was partially routed & I tried to mate the FI connectors. It wasn’t really much of a problem as they corrected it quickly enough, it was cold here & I wouldn’t be riding anyway and the first time is a learning experience anyway. Applied blue loctite to any screws/bolts that I installed or disturbed (experience).
INSTALL PART 1: removed the Tank & seat. I had never removed the gas tank from this bike (or one like it) before. That crossover tubing with the stock non removable clamps can dump some gas ! No big deal though.
Installed the wide range O2 sensor in place of the front stock O2 sensor. It appeared to have something like Anti-Seize already applied to the threads so I didn’t add or take away anything. Installed the air/fuel ratio gauge dead center of the handlebars with the supplied chrome handle bar mount.
There was a bundle of stock cables & connectors under the seat. I just lifted them up & untangled them to see where I could mount the Gen3 controller with the supplied Velcro. The controller is really small (maybe 2” x 3” x 1/4” thick : from memory). There was actually plenty of room to mount it and I felt the Velcro was sufficient for the size & weight of the controller. And I really doubt that it’s vibration sensitive. I found a nice home for it, cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and mounted it.
Now, the challenge was then to route the cables between the components. I found out that routing cables on a bike, neatly & securely, can be a real challenge. Doebeck supplied some detailed instructions - but not for my bike. It might be because they originally sent me the wrong kit or because this controller is a new release for my bike. But I’ve got 30 years of employment experience as a technician, mainly electronic, so I thought I could deal with this.
I don’t recommend, for my bike, routing any of the cables on the left side of the bike. That’s what I tried first. Difficult. Let’s get on to part 2 when I received the correct controller for my bike.
INSTALL PART 2: I spotted a gap behind the battery box that I could route the gauge & FI cables through but the connectors wouldn’t pass through. I decided to remove the battery & box. It worked real good (compared to the left side)! When I reinstalled the battery box, after all cables were routed and connected, I just had to be really observant that I didn’t pinch any cables. Behind the upper right side of the battery box it’s kind of tight - but there is enough room.
I then routed these cables along the upper frame member under the tank. There is a plastic channel to hang them in. I cable tied the new cables to the stock ones as needed.
Now the O2 sensor cable. It didn’t appear long enough to route with the other cables so I routed it along side a stock cable that ran along the lower right frame. Keeping it high & secure so as to not be damaged by a bike lift. I can’t remember exactly how I got from the controller to the bottom of the bike – but I got there.
The stock O2 sensor connector is contained in a plastic housing below the voltage regulator. I found out in PART 1 that the new connector and adapter won’t fit inside that housing. So I chose to cable tie the O2 cable to the left & right sides of the front lower frame and position the connector along the engine side of the plastic housing. This will shield it from road water spray from the front tire. I snapped the housing shut shielding the other stock connector that resides there.
The Gen 4 is installed now. I rechecked all the routing (especially for possible abrasion sites). Neat, secure. Reinstalled the battery box (cable pinching possibility mentioned above). Reinstalled battery, tank, seat.
Started her up – Gen 4 seemed operative. Couldn’t test ride ‘cause I had a dadgum nail in my tire (tubed). Another delay!
1st TEST DRIVE: I just observed the A/F meter initially – the gauge indicated that my bike was running rich. As I rode, I pulled over every once & awhile to tweak the A/F to the Doebeck recommended targets. This was surprisingly easy. I just pressed the mode button until the LED was lit that corresponded to the mode that I desired to adjust. Then I pressed the + or – button to move the analog gauges’ needle to the desired A/F ratio in that mode. Release & let the set mode expire …. And ride again.
I think my acceleration improved remarkably. In fact, while winding out in first gear I think I hit the HD high RPM cutout several times. I have never hit that before. I don’t have a tach so I can’t say for sure – but that’s my initial thought (hope) from my first ride. I hope to give it another short test ride this weekend but I won’t really get some good riding time until next spring.
I didn’t tweak the mode transition-points yet. I find it hard to visualize them even when referencing the Dobeck XY chart … with unlabeled axes. But I’m thinking … LOAD BASED …. So, I think the transition points are load based also – but I’ll play with them next riding season.
MY OPINION: Ya know, HD could build self-tuning ability into their bikes. But HD and every 3rd party vendor would lose a high $ market. It’s a marketing game that has nothing to do with the available technology. I have a love-hate relation ship with HD.
I am initially very happy with the Gen 4. It constantly gives me data that I’ve never had before. And I can tweak my A/F at will – without a laptop and without HD. I have been empowered!
ADDITIONAL WHINING: How’d you like to compose that & then loose it! I hope it’s helpful to someone.
Last edited by a moderator:
glazier
Junior Member
Excellent write up. Thanks. Now that wasn't so hard, was it??? Besides, its not like you had anything better to do on a Friday night.
Question..... do you have to mount the gauge? I really dont want it as a permanent fixture on my bike. Just wondering if you could tune it and then disconnect the gauge and keep it in the garage for future needs? Do all Gen3's have the gauge? I thought that was the Gen4, but I know very little about these.
Thanks again.
Question..... do you have to mount the gauge? I really dont want it as a permanent fixture on my bike. Just wondering if you could tune it and then disconnect the gauge and keep it in the garage for future needs? Do all Gen3's have the gauge? I thought that was the Gen4, but I know very little about these.
Thanks again.
My apologies about mentioning Gen 3 .... I have only initial experience with Gen 4. Disregard any reference I made to Gen 3 & sub with Gen 4.
Check the website, they have something called "SAFR - Standalone Air/Fuel Ratio Diagnostic Tool".
Sorry, quick post .. can't time out.
thanks
Check the website, they have something called "SAFR - Standalone Air/Fuel Ratio Diagnostic Tool".
Sorry, quick post .. can't time out.
thanks
I'm not positive but I don't think you can operate the GEN 4 without the AFR gauge connected. Besides, then you'd lose the ability to make adjustments when you're away from home due to hills, headwinds, etc.
I suppose if you just hated the way the gauge looks on the handlebars, you could leave it connected but try to tuck it away somewhere out of sight.