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Twin Cam Engine Model Number

I have a 2000 FXDWG Screaming Eagle Twin Cam 88 that was assembled in 12/99. I am having the cylinders honed to 20 over and valve job after 73,000 miles. I chose having modified pistons over milling the heads to increase compression to 10 to 1. The existing cams are SEH 203, I think about half inch intake lift. The machine shop ask me what the model number of the motor is and the rocker ratio, they are trying to find pistons that match the setup I am asking for? I was not aware of the different model numbers on twin cam 88 motors made in the same year. And are the 203 chain driven cams a good choice or should I install more cam lift on assembly. Anyone have any input?
Thanks,
John
 
The only models I know of are 88 and 88b the 88 has a single coil and the 88b has a dual coil. Someone may chime in with something different that I am not aware of.
 
Twin cam 88A is all models with exposed shock absorbers. 88B is the internal counterbalanced engine for Softails. The easy way to tell is 88A motor mount holes are verticle and have a big lump of rubber between the front mounts and frame. 88B are horizontal and bolt directly to the frame.
 
As Breeze has pointed out, there are two 88" motors; 88A, the motor in the dyna and touring models and 88B the balanced motor in the softail models and AFAIK, neither came with dual coils. Being a Dyna, the motor is the 88A but the bike is not a 2000 model; no SE dyna in 2000. There was an SE Dyna in 2001 and 2002; the FXDWG2 and FXDWG 3' 2002 was the last year the SE bikes cam with the 88" motor. Being build in 12/99; I would be suspicious of the SE designation since there was no SE FXDWG built for the 2000 model year. The OEM rocker are ratio for both is 1.65.

The motor does not have a model number; it shares the VIN on the frame; they match. I see two different ways for the OP to go but both require bigger bore. I might be looking for another machine shop though; VIN or model number has nothing to do with building the motor and any machine shop that knows Harleys would know what the rocker arm ratio was and wouldn't be asking. No disrespect to the OP or anyone else, but facts are facts.

Regardless of model, the OP is still working with an 88" motor and he has a couple of options to rebuild. Of course there are variations on any theme and more than one way to skin the cat but the two most common are outlined below for the OP to consider. I can get windy but the devil is in the details.;)

Why stop at .020" over; most boring 88s bore to .125" OS for a 95" displacement but about 6-8 years back that increased to .185" for a 98" displacement. I don't believe the MoCo makes .020" pistons for the 88" motor anymore; all are .010" OS. They may be available from Mahle or Arias but since they made the OS piston for HD, maybe not.

Is the bike carbed or EFI? For either option below, if carbed, rejetting will be necessary and a programmable ignition should be installed as well. Stock timing will be a bit aggressive for any cam and compression upgrade. If EFI, a dyno tune will be required. I hope the bike is carbed since the 2000 models used the Magneti Marelli EFI system and it is getting harder and harder to find tuners that know how to tune that system.

First option for the OP is to bore to 3.875" and order a set of CP/Carillo pistons with a 3cc dome they come with rings and run about $350 a set. Static compression for this setup will be about 9.8 with CCP at about 190psi; anything more is too much for SE 204 cams. Clean the heads up, have a multi-angle valve job done (commonly referred to as a SERDI valve job), replace valve and/or springs if necessary, replace the guide seals and take a very thin slice to make sure the head surface is flat. Use a .030" MLS head gasket and install a set SE 204 cams. Closely inspect the cam plate and oil pump; measure to see if all components are not worn past service limits and replace as required. Replace inner and outer cam bearings; OEM is OK for the outers inners should be Torrington/Koyo B148, the full compliment bearing. Replace the cam chain tensioners with a set of CYCO tensioners. Install the Baisley LMR-002 pressure relief spring for a marginal boost in oil pressure and polish up the little pressure relief piston so it moves freely in the bore.

Second option which would be my choice would be to bore to 3.938' for 98" displacement, a set of Carillo flat top pistons which will bring static compression down to about 9.5 but with a set of S&S 509 cams with an earlier intake close, CCP will still be about 190psi. Same treatment for the heads but use a .045" head gasket instead of a .030". Same treatment of the cam plate, oil pump and cam chain tensioners.
 
I guess Barnstormer 2790 is too busy barn storming to continue this tread. Another "hit and run" poster.:rolleyes:
 
Thanks guy's, not to busy, just no WiFi where I live, and not many places within 40 miles to stop and use theirs, plus I did not have a phone for a month. Anyway, you provided a wealth of information. The Machine shop I am using is a race car shop. They do bike work as well but its not their main service. They have a good reputation, and their equipment is state of the art, and they are the closest shop . I origional going to do the valve job myself, but at the last minuite thought otherwise. Thus my selection of the shop. I am doing the overhaul myself. Where I live its hard to find anyone who knows anything, much less use tools, and can finish what they started. I have kept the bike running, reliable, stout , fresh paint each year. My reward is many compliments on apperence and how stout it sounds. This is my first complete breakdown of the bike. In the last 10 years I have rebuilt the forks, brakes, front and rear. Added 18 Apes and cables. Replaced Stator, Regulator, or entire charging system. Installed new Carburetor re build kits Mikuni HRS 42 I remember someone asking about fuel system. It took some time to learn how to tune my Mikuni, I am paying attention to your jet advice. Some folks talk bad of Mikuni, but when properly tuned I think they are second to none. Replaced rocker box breathers. I decided to break it down when I was getting oil blown out my Stage 2 Sucker. The blow bye was due to rear piston damage, or coming apart around rings. I found my chain tensioners in the oil pan along with piston pieces. I was amazed at how well it still ran with all those parts and pieces of my motor in the oil pan. I think the piston damage was probablly do to overheating, I have thought at times that I was close to overheating. I am going to replace the cam plate with a high volume oil pump. Looking at the S & S upgrade. After reading your replies I am re thinking my next move. Dolt, I am impressed with your knowledge of the 20 year old twin cam. I will need to read your reply a couple of times to understand more clearly everything you told me. The engine model information is pretty clear cut, and the bore information you gave me I am just going to show the shop what you provided. The other two things I want to do while I have the bike apart is replace the bearings in the yoke, and replace the bushings in the swing arm, to stiffen up the ride.
I am a retired pilot, I have a livestock business today, and do all my own mechanic work on the equipment required to operate a ranch. I do enjoy working on my bike, and will probally have a few more questions as I start the re assembly. I did not relize it has been a month since I started the thread, Thanks so much for your time and advice on this. I apolagise about ny spelling, I am a lot better at math.
 
Keep us posted on the rebuild plan and progress. There are others on this forum that can help as well. Feel free to PM me with questions as well.;)
 
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