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Tour Pack Conversion

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An interesting view of changing the standard tour pack to a quick disconnect unit.

This is a conversion to detachable of an Ultra with a few extras on it. Including the Kuryakin exteneded tour pak bar. So unless you have that it will be slightly different for you, however the differences will be minimal. Also this is the stock ultra radio from the factory with rear speakers, if you have dealer installed rear speakers you may have an amplifier under your tour pak, that or pre 2000 have the amp, I'm not sure. In any case the wiring will be different if you can see the amp under your tour pak. The amp is clearly visible with nothing taken apart yet. I might have the chance to do the same conversion on a model with this external radio amp, so keep an eye on my site if the chance does come up I will write a similar how-to with the differences noted.

I'm showing the installation of 3 HD items here, the docking kit, the two up tour pack mounting kit, and the antenna relocation kit.

PREP WORK:

Set some cardboard on the ground around the work area, you will have lots of stuff to set down and concrete scratches the stuff bad. Remove the saddle bags, I don't have pictures hopefully you know where the 2 pins are inside the bag to release them.

Tools:

I don't have an exact list but here are the general items:


  • Socket set, nothing too crazy, I think I used my small toolbox set which only has about 25 sockets.
  • Wrenches, sometimes sockets don't work as well as a standard combination wrench, again nothing to fancy, I just used a regular 10 piece wrench set.
  • Allen wrenches, I used both T handle and normal 'L' shaped, if you just have the low cost 'L' shaped ones you should be OK.
  • Torex bits, this is the most unique item used, I have a full automotive set. If you plan on doing much of anything with your HOG just go and buy a full automotive set, mine is from sears.
  • Screw drivers, including a #4 philips, #3 might work, but use the right tool for the job because you don't want to strip anything out.

Maybe some other stuff that I forgot.

Remove 2 nuts to remove the documentation holder at back inside of tour pak. These nuts are inside the document holder.

Remove tour pak liner. Just keep it clear of the lock and the other part that it hits as it lifts out, but it should be really easy to lift out.

Disconnect the three wires.
Front left, for the lights
Middle right, for the CB
Back left, for the AM/FM


Loosen wire clips by prying them open just a little bit with a wide screwdriver.

Gently push/pull both grommets to the inside of the tour pak

Slide grommets off wires, move 3 wires out of tour pak through the two holes. There should be nothing running through the two holes at this point.

Moving the wires around the rear speaker pods a wire connector should come out of the pod. This allows the pods to be disconnected from the bike.

Release the CB connector under the tour pak from the ring the hold it in place, there should be a slot in the ring to allow the connector to hang free. There is also a spring that hold the wire in place, the spring is covered by a black plastic tube. Now is the time to disconnect that if possible.

Remove 5 bolts that hold the tour pak on. It should be free to set aside then.
TIP:
have some cardboard next to you so you can set it down without scratching anything.

TIP: having 2 people to do this is a good idea so you don?t drop the tour pak, and to remove anything you missed. Once the conversion is done you should be able to get it on and off with only one person.

Remove seat, one bolt at back.

Unbolt the non-detachable bar, two connection points at the top corners of the license plate.

The front bolts are under two chrome covers that run along the sides, and just barely cover the front bolts of the old tour pak bar so they can't be removed without taking the cover off. One of the bolts on this chrome cover is a #4 Philips.

Remove the two bolts that hold the top of the bars from the kit

Install the kit
  • Note the two bolts at the top, one has the mounting point, which is moved out by a spacer.
TIP: the spacers are different depending on model, read the directions and note the slight differences in thickness of the spacers.​
  • The bottom of the bar has one bolt that goes into an open hole that was already threaded but unused on my bike.
  • Install the right side rear mounting point. If you are looking at the large chrome brackets that come with the kit, this is at the bottom of the 'V' or the back of the bike when installed. Don't bother with the left side, that is where the relocated antenna bracket is installed.
Spare parts, for different bikes/setups. I'm not sure if I like it better that it is one kit for all setups or if they should sell all the stuff individually, there are benefits to both ways I guess.

Install Antenna Relocation kit.
  • I know some people just put a small antenna inside the fairing, but I would rather have the full size antenna while I'm out of the city, so the kit was what I'm opting for.
  • I don't have many pictures of the installation because it is fairly simple, you just have to know that the kit includes the mounting point for a tour pak that does NOT have an antenna mounting point, I guess if you bought a standard and then put a radio on it with a detachable tour pak? Or a custom tour pak?
  • I hope that nobody else has the problem my kit did, they sent TWO of the adapters antenna/cable of which there should be ONE. And they left out the main connector that goes between the cable and the antenna at the relocated point! (many thanks to the guys at Hals Harley Davidson who understood the problem with the kit and made it right)
The connector for the lights and the am/fm has a single plastic wire wrap around them. I cut it off back to around the batter and I'm planning on buying some shrink wrap to put around the connector for the lights. As you can see the wires would be very unprotected without something around them. I'd say put electrical tape around the 3 wires just as some more protection, if you don't shrink wrap them, which would be better. Most good hardware stores sell shrink wrap in bulk so you can buy the length you need, ~16 inches in my case.

Here is the bottom part of the tour pak kit shown set on top of the mounting kit, now that the mounting kit is installed. The picture below that is the rest of the mounting kit, I thought it would be more clear showing the one part on the bike.

Close up of the lock on the detachable rack kit.

Rest of the tour pak kit. This bar gets bolted directly to the bottom of the tour pak, with the other large bracket that comes with the kit. The rectangular spacers have a curve on one side and flat on the other go between the bar and the bracket. It pretty much only goes together one way.

TIP: they give you two length bolts, I had to use the longer one, the shorter ones wouldn?t even go through everything.

Reinstall the chrome covers on the sides. As well as the mounting points for the saddle bags. You will have to play with the two pin mounting points for the bags since you had them off, but what I did was:
  • loosely put the points on.
  • Place the bags on the rail that they sit on, moving them to where they should be
  • Put the pins in
  • Tighten down the bolts holding the two mounting points. NOTE: even though the bar that the bags sit on curve at the end, you can actually move the bags forward and backward quite a bit. Make sure they are centered correctly forward/backward. Left and right there isn't a lot of movement, due to the rubber that makes contact.
Now you should be able to mount and dismount the tour pak.

TIP: have a 2nd person around the first time or two that you do it. But with a little practice it is a one person task. I suspect that the kit will 'break in' with a little wear as the parts get comfortable mating with their counterparts.

You now have the issue of the license plate and how to mount it. I have found 3 solutions:
  1. Get the license plate bracket that is stock on a street glide/standard. It is the same as the one you took off, just missing the 'ears' that bolt to the bottom of the tour pak. I have seen bikes with detachable and this plate so it should work OK.
  2. Get the HD kit to mount the plate below the taillight
  3. Get the Kuryakin kit to mount the plate below the taillight.
The first license plate solution is the fastest/cheapest (I think it's the cheapest anyway I didn't price the bracket)

The 2nd and 3rd solution are ones I like to streamline the back when the bag is off. My one remaining question is, can the bar that bolts to the license plate be removed SAFELY? This bar hold the license plate which also supports a NON-detachable tour pak. But when the plate is mounted below the lights, and the tour pak is detachable I don't see this chrome bar supporting anything. My question is, is this bar a structural part of the rear end of the bike, and removing it could allow twisting/bending/handling issues??? I've moved my plate below the lights, but plan on leaving this bar in place until I get a firm answer.

Also see this post too...

Detachable Tour Pack - Harley Davidson Community
 
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