Too much windshield crazing?
- Thread starter Dan.1977P
- Start date
![IMG_2740[1].jpg](https://cdn.hdtimeline.com/data/attachments/12/12324-733fd7862836ee612ece0f20a1f00dd1.jpg "IMG_2740[1].jpg")
dolt
Well-Known Member
Can't answer but was curious about the buffing. I was installing a new wind screen on a bike over the weekend and dropped it on the concrete floor in my garage. The wind shield was "scuffed", not so much scratched but more of a surface abrasion. I was wondering if I could buff it out but was not sure what tools or compounds would be required.
Please elaborate on the buffing details, i.e., what Meguiars ball and what buffing compound? :coffee
Looks like it's seen better days. In my experience once they start getting to that point there's no saving them.
Don, I know pilots use a special compound and a buffing wheel on their windshields of small planes when the get marked up. Maybe give your local small airport a call and see if they can give you the name of the product.
Dan.1977P
Active Member
Here is what I use for buffing out the plastic, lexan, acrylic... It was mothers and it attaches to your drill. I didn't realize until I went out to take this pic that I had the fine compound. they make a more coarse compound that would probably take the plastic down pretty fast. I'd use a regular buffer on this if I had one since it's a pretty flat surface.
glazier
Junior Member
We use cerium oxide to buff light scratches out of glass and it's used to polish the edges of glass. Jewelers use it to clean & polish jewelry. I've never used it on Lexan before so I'm not sure how it would work. If the scuffed part is pretty large, I don't think anything will help. But anything you use you need to keep it watered down and cool, or the heat will distort the plastic. I've got some cerium oxide in my garage I'd be happy to send you. I'm moving soon and need to start getting rid of stuff anyway. It's a powder and you just mix it with some water to make a paste. I've got a felt wheel that attaches to a drill, but the steel plate came off. I'll give you that too if you want it. I'm sure you could figure out a way to attach it. After 35 years I think it's finally time to get out of the glass business and I don't need this stuff any more. Let me know if you want it and I'll get it to you. My gift to you for all your valuable advice on this forum. If nothing else, call a plastic supply place like Regal Plastic and ask what they recommend for buffing lexan. Maybe they can even give you a little piece of scrap to test out some products before trying on the windshield.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Ouch, I use
Dan.1977P
Active Member
Yeah, I need to get me some of the #3. I just tried wet sanding with some 400grit sandpaper I had lying around and it took as much work to polish out the sanding as it would to polish out the crazing. I could get the right grit and take it down correctly or I can just use this as an excuse to get one of these with a recurve.
Memphis Shades Batwing Fairing - Clearview Shields
Memphis Shades Batwing Fairing - Clearview Shields
My experience with buffing the a factory shield for the RK wasn't great. I found the Harley shield has some sort of coating that you start to buff through right away. Once that starts you are doing the WHOLE shield. Once the coating was gone it just was never the same and seemed to get worse. I bought a LRS and never looked back and wont fiddle with one again. At the beginning of the year LRS has great deals on shields. I'm talking less than $100 for a full "fat guy" RK shield. Very nice product IMO.
Long Ride Shields
Long Ride Shields