free website stats program Temporary Fuel Filter Advice | Harley Davidson Forums

Temporary Fuel Filter Advice

I'm resurrecting a '95 FLHTCUI after 7+ years of storage. This is the 30th anniversary Ultra-Classic Electra-Glide and was fuel injected (Serial Number 1154 of 2000 built). Fuel tank, lines, pump and filter were trashed with rust. I want to use temporary fuel filters just to catch any of the junk I miss on the clean up of the tank and lines. Factory replacement (61343-95) costs between $50-$60 depending upon where I get it. Need advice on cheap (see through, if possible) filters I can use, then throw away before I put on the high-dollar Harley part. Thanks - Joe
 
I don't know if there is a temp filter you could use. Why not just run a line from the pump into a catch jug untill it runs clean?
 
Thanks for the suggestion. But, I'm real concerned about what might get to the injector screens. I've spent several days cleaning the tank with Metal Rescue and pressure washing (one area at a time). Lots of stuff coming out - to include the original (greyish blue) liner. But, I can't trust the metal fuel lines that are welded in place inside the tank (both supply and return sides). Thought temp filters would be the most cost effective way to go. I've tried shooting carb cleaner through the old filter, and it seems clean. Guess I could try to run it for a week or so, then put in a new one. Any other ideas? Thanks - Joe
 
Sounds like you have a plan. Are you going to reline the tank?
 
Yes. I will reline the tank. I'm leaning towards Caswell's epoxy gas tank sealer or KBS Gold Standard Tank Sealer. Any other suggestion/recommendation is welcome. Thanks - Joe
 
How do you get the inside of a tank really cleaned and etched before using something like KBS. I have used KBS Gold on different sealing projects (not fuel tanks) and it works well but I was able to prepare the surface first because it was an open container.

I may be wrong but since our tanks are exposed to direct sun light, I would think all the thermal expansion and contraction will cause the epoxy to delaminate from the substrate if it was not etched properly. And trying to do that through a 2 1/2" hole is difficult.

Just thinking out-loud here and don't have any actually experience lining a gas tank.
 
Back during my motocross days we cleaned tanks by using BB's and working them around (shaking and using a homemade tumbler) inside the tank. After we were through we used KBS with good results.
 
... I can't trust the metal fuel lines that are welded in place inside the tank (both supply and return sides)....

Would this help with the metal lines?

Hoppe's BoreSnake


I would recommend starting from the inside and pulling the snake though to the outside. Might be easier the other way 'round, but, you'll be dragging any loosened corrosion into the tank...not out.

You might have to come up with a clever way to get the Snake started, (fishing line?) but a couple of passes with the right size might do a lot of good.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I guess I better do a bit more research on the tank liner. Never gave expansion\contraction any thought. I tried rolling screws and nuts in the tank for several hours in a hillbilly rotisserie. That got a lot of the rust out; but still couldn't get the rear (skinny) end of the tank. That's the part where I'm most concerned with flaking of the old liner. I'll check out the Hoppes BoreSnake - pipe cleaners aren't getting the job done. The good part, I think the interior metal lines are brass. Thanks again - Joe
 
Back
Top