stripped engine oil plug hole
- Thread starter postie357
- Start date
There are self tapping oil plugs on the market just for that reason.
Check with your dealer or check on the internet.
Check with your dealer or check on the internet.
dolt
Well-Known Member
Best bet is the Dorman O/S plug. I have cut and pasted a post from another forum with his repair details.
I chose to go with a piggyback plug so that when I change the oil, I'm removing/replacing a steel drain plug into a steel receptacle and not a softer, aluminum pan. This should aid in the longevity of the threads. I purchased a Dorman piggyback plug (1/2"-20 single oversize)…
I also purchased a 1/2"-20 single oversize tap. The length of the tap is short enough to run into the drain hole straight without interference with other engine components. I created new threads in the drain hole using the single oversize tap. Take extra precautions when cutting the threads to prevent metal shavings from collecting in the drain pan. While it is outlined in other threads here, I'll just touch on a few things: coat the tap with vaseline or grease to trap the metal shavings, clean the tap after every revolution or two while cutting the threads, and do numerous "flushes" of the pan/crankcase with kerosene and oil to clean the new threads you're cutting.
Once I cut the new threads, the piggyback drain plug I bought wouldn't go into the drain hole. The tip of the plug wasn't tapered so I bought a 1/2"-20 single oversize drain plug that WAS tapered (local auto parts store) to begin the cuts in the new threads. This paved the way for the piggyback plug I purchased. Both drain plugs had the same diameter shank but I needed a tapered plug to start the plug into the new hole.
Anyway, the new plug went into the pan without difficulty. Because it was still somewhat cutting new threads, it was snug going in... I used a small (short) 3/8" ratchet and it required some effort bit nothing overwhelming. You shouldn't need anything longer such as a breaker bar.
It is also recommended that you use (like I did) some 10mm or 3/8" sealing washers on the "piggyback" plug since a normal o-ring may squish out and not seal
I chose to go with a piggyback plug so that when I change the oil, I'm removing/replacing a steel drain plug into a steel receptacle and not a softer, aluminum pan. This should aid in the longevity of the threads. I purchased a Dorman piggyback plug (1/2"-20 single oversize)…
I also purchased a 1/2"-20 single oversize tap. The length of the tap is short enough to run into the drain hole straight without interference with other engine components. I created new threads in the drain hole using the single oversize tap. Take extra precautions when cutting the threads to prevent metal shavings from collecting in the drain pan. While it is outlined in other threads here, I'll just touch on a few things: coat the tap with vaseline or grease to trap the metal shavings, clean the tap after every revolution or two while cutting the threads, and do numerous "flushes" of the pan/crankcase with kerosene and oil to clean the new threads you're cutting.
Once I cut the new threads, the piggyback drain plug I bought wouldn't go into the drain hole. The tip of the plug wasn't tapered so I bought a 1/2"-20 single oversize drain plug that WAS tapered (local auto parts store) to begin the cuts in the new threads. This paved the way for the piggyback plug I purchased. Both drain plugs had the same diameter shank but I needed a tapered plug to start the plug into the new hole.
Anyway, the new plug went into the pan without difficulty. Because it was still somewhat cutting new threads, it was snug going in... I used a small (short) 3/8" ratchet and it required some effort bit nothing overwhelming. You shouldn't need anything longer such as a breaker bar.
It is also recommended that you use (like I did) some 10mm or 3/8" sealing washers on the "piggyback" plug since a normal o-ring may squish out and not seal
