Speedometer needle sticking

[Uthud]

1997 Ultra (FLHTCU). Cable driven speedometer. The odometer is working fine, although the trip odo quit turning the tens digits many years ago.
Yesterday, the speedometer needle started going wonky: it would read 68mph when I knew I was running faster, then it jump abruptly up to 70+. It seemed to be working ok up to around 50.
Now today, it will register up to a speed, like 40, and just get stuck there for a while, not wanting to move up or down when I change speed.
Anyone else have similar experience?
Anyone know how to fix this?

 

[gator508]

Have you tried lubing the cable, I have read this may help.

 

[Uthud]

Have you tried lubing the cable, I have read this may help.

Not yet. I have watched several YouTube about similar issues with various vintage bikes and cars.
I think I will have to open up the speedo and clean and lube it. But I’m afraid of making it worse.
I guess step one will be to clean and re-grease cable.
Fingers crossed.
When my trip odometer bustid years ago, I tried to find a replacement speedometer. The OEM unit was unobtainable, and no aftermarket replacement was available for the ‘97 FLHTCU; if I remember correctly, that particular unit was only used for a few years.
Thanks for your input.

 

[Breeze3at]

Look at the cable tip that goes into the speedo. It should be fairly square, maybe it has worn the edges and is slipping, or maybe the speedo fitting has worn and allowing the cable to slip. Auto parts stores USED to sell inner replacement cables (I used one with good results on my '92 Dyna), but I don't know how long it has been since any car used a cable drive speedo, so they may be obsolete.

 

[Blue Wide Glide]

Check to see if the face-plate behind the speedometer is warping and touching the needle. I had a speedometer/tachometer that did that when the sun shined on it for a long time.

 

[Uthud]

Check to see if the face-plate behind the speedometer is warping and touching the needle. I had a speedometer/tachometer that did that when the sun shined on it for a long time.

Thanks. I’m going to keep that in mind when I start in on it.

 

[biscuit]

Easy stuff first.
Ensure the cable is completely intact; routed correctly; lubricated; the actual driven end isn’t broken; the square section that fits into the speedo drive is still square( not rounded at all); the speedo cable connection that screws onto the speedo is tight.. that sort of stuff.

I don’t know how the Harley driving end works- but most cable drives have a sort of bifurcated fitting on the end of the flexi drive cable, that slides over a small tongue which is driven by a basic sort of gearbox that uses a pinion gear. And something like a washer that has two vertical projections that fit into receptors in the pinion gear. Check that too.
All intact etc.
There must be plenty of wrecks around that you could look at for speedo drive cables. Even a possibility you could join 2 sections together with a small(very) sleeve. Or even repair your own like that if it’s no good. And you can’t buy another.
Or see these for cables.

And if yours is actually broken inside, try these places. Certainly will be more than these shops.

 

[Uthud]

Easy stuff first.
Ensure the cable is completely intact; routed correctly; lubricated; the actual driven end isn’t broken; the square section that fits into the speedo drive is still square( not rounded at all); the speedo cable connection that screws onto the speedo is tight.. that sort of stuff.

I don’t know how the Harley driving end works- but most cable drives have a sort of bifurcated fitting on the end of the flexi drive cable, that slides over a small tongue which is driven by a basic sort of gearbox that uses a pinion gear. And something like a washer that has two vertical projections that fit into receptors in the pinion gear. Check that too.
All intact etc.
There must be plenty of wrecks around that you could look at for speedo drive cables. Even a possibility you could join 2 sections together with a small(very) sleeve. Or even repair your own like that if it’s no good. And you can’t buy another.
Or see these for cables.

And if yours is actually broken inside, try these places. Certainly will be more than these shops.

Thanks for your input. I’m hoping to get into it later today. I plan to pull the cable out of the sheath and inspect, clean, and re-lube it. I also want to inspect the gauge, but I don’t want to disassemble it right now. If cable maintenance doesn’t fix the problem, then I will address the gauge later this year, after riding season is over.
The cable was replaced by the Dealership at 90,000 miles (I am at 140,000 now).
I will update here when I have looked into it more.

 

[Uthud]

UPDATE:
Still inop.
I removed the cable from the sheath, cleaned, inspected, re-lubed, and reinstalled. I verified that the cable was not damaged from end to end, and the drive dog is engaged in the front wheel.
When I had last parked the bike, the speedometer needle was stuck on around 30 mph. But by yesterday morning before I began working on it, the needle had returned to zero. I couldn’t see any obvious problem with the unit itself, warping, binding, etc.
After attending to the cable, and reassembly, I went for a test ride. At first everything seemed to be working perfectly. The speedo registered smoothly, until it didn’t. Dang.
As I accelerated up to highway speed (like, 60) it reached 115 mph and got wonky.
When I got home and parked, it was saying about 45 mph while not moving.
So, I got on the internet to see if I could find a used but working speedometer. I think I got lucky: I bought a speedometer that appears to be the correct part, and its companion tachometer. Supposed to be here next week.
The photos on the eBay looked good, and the seller’s description said everything worked correctly, but there may be some fogginess on the lens. I couldn’t see that in the photo.
I’ll let yous know how it goes.

 

[Blue Wide Glide]

A sticky cable will cause the needle to "bounce". My face plate only warped when it got hot, and being it was black didn't help. Unfortunately you can't take the bezel off. Good luck with your replacement unit.