Shifter Shaft Grease Fitting

[glider]

Here's some pictures that will show the installation of a grease fitting into the housing for the shifter shaft. A very simple thing to do with basic tools. It requires a drill, tap for the size fitting being used and a grease gun. First remove the shaft and then you can proceed with the drilling and taping process.
This has been a common problem from lack of maintenance in this area and riding in the rain and washing will make it worse because it washes away the lubrication for the shaft.
Symptoms are the shifter will not return to the proper position between shifts and seems to hang up or bind.
Removal of the shifter shaft that the shifter pegs are mounted to and cleaning it with some very fine sandpaper then the installation of this grease fitting and a greasing and reassembly will usually cure the problem.
A greasing at the major services will keep the shifter working smooth.

Drilling the hole

Cutting the threads

Zerk fitting installed

One thing I should have added here is that some riders experience a problem with the shifter while riding that the shift arm does not return to the center position on it's own after a shift. The usual cause of this is the shifter shaft needing to be removed , cleaned and re greased where it goes through the boss that holds it on the bike. From constant washing/riding in the rain over the years the factory grease washes out and makes the shaft bind and this is why it doesn't return on it's own. Many have thought it was a transmission problem when in fact it is a maintenance problem only.

 

[English Mike]

Mr. Data.

It is probably just me, but I do hear quite a clunk when I engage 1st from cold and also changing is fairly noisy; can anything be done to reduce the noise levels on a 2005 5 speed on my softail heritage classic? Would the nipple above help in anyway?

Many thanks

Mike

 

[glider.]

Mike

The zerk above is just to lube the shaft itself for the linkage. Your clunk is probably pretty much normal for a harley trans. Proper clutch adjustment will minimize it somewhat and also the use of redline shockproof heavy gear oil will make a big difference. Very important to use a gear oil in the trans and not an engine oil. HD stopped suggesting the use of their syn 3 in 2005 in the transmissions. You may also find that when you start a harley cold and the primary oil is cold/thick that it has a tendency to spin the clutch basket more causing a more noticable clunk than when it is hot.

You can order redline here. It's all I use in mine as well as many others too.

http://www.myoilshop.com/

 

[English Mike]

Mike

The zerk above is just to lube the shaft itself for the linkage. Your clunk is probably pretty much normal for a harley trans. Proper clutch adjustment will minimize it somewhat and also the use of redline shockproof heavy gear oil will make a big difference. Very important to use a gear oil in the trans and not an engine oil. HD stopped suggesting the use of their syn 3 in 2005 in the transmissions. You may also find that when you start a harley cold and the primary oil is cold/thick that it has a tendency to spin the clutch basket more causing a more noticable clunk than when it is hot.

You can order redline here. It's all I use in mine as well as many others too.

http://www.myoilshop.com/

Thanks buddy.:51:

Mike

 

[glider.]

Mike

Speaking of clunks, if your clutch isn't adjusted properly, you will get a good clunk with any shift up or down.

Try this adjustment if you will...

Slack off (colapse) the cable adjuster completely, then open up the derby cover for the clutch adjustment. I usually squeeze the clutch lever a few times as I back off the adjuster to center the balls in the ramps of the clutch mechanism. Put the trans in fifth gear to hold the clutch basket still, break the adjuster loose and lightly seat the adjustment screw, you can do this a few times to get the feel of it,(you just want to feel it touch the pushrod an no more) then after you just feel the seating, back the adjustment screw off only 1/2 turn and lock down the lock nut leaving the allen key in the adjuster so you can be sure it doesn't move as you tighten the locknut and you should have a quieter shifting bike. The friction zone on the clutch lever will move out from the bar slightly as the engine/trans heats up when riding. After this adjustment, you'll find that the clutch will start to engage a bit more than an inch from the bar but it will lengthen out when it reaches operating temps.

If it is done right, you shouldn't get more than a click when shifting up instead of that clunk.

 

[cowboywildbill]

If you try the other things posted already and it didn't help here are some additional idea's.I don't know if he is running a stock or aftermarket clutch? But I've run aftermarket clutches like Barnett and they tend to make it hard to hit neutral.
Some bikes are harder to get neutral than others even with a stock clutch adjusted properly.
Try just lightly quickly tapping the heel shifter. This pops some of them into neutral easier than trying to pull up on the toe shifter.