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RPMs ????

Just got a new Street Glide and need some info regarding the rpms and shifting. Searched the owner's manual and can't find what I need. Need to get a service manual asap. I have never had a tach before and want to know:

1. At what rpm should I up-shift?
2. What rpm should I down-shift?
3. What should the rpm be when at highway speed
to keep from lugging engine?

Any information will be greatly appreciated.
 
It all depends on road condition and how you ride. I have a 2012 SG and as a general rule I dont run it less than 2500 in any gear. I find that running through the gears and shifting at 4000rpm is very spirited acceleration, and really dont do that very often, 3000-3200rpm through the gears is brisk but still civialized. Once you get some more seat time in you will find what feels good to you, and so long as you are not lugging the motor you should be just fine. as far as downshifting goes, I tend to use more hand and foot braking than I do engine braking so my downshifts generaly tend to lag a bit behind vehicle speed and the engine doesnt rev as I ease out on the clutch. Again you will find what feels right to you as you ride more.
 
Just got a new Street Glide and need some info regarding the rpms and shifting. Searched the owner's manual and can't find what I need. Need to get a service manual asap. I have never had a tach before and want to know:

1. At what rpm should I up-shift? 3500 - 4000
2. What rpm should I down-shift? shift by sound/feel vs. RPM - don't want to "squelch" the tires
3. What should the rpm be when at highway speed to keep from lugging engine? 2500 - 3000
Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Congrats on the sweet scoot & hope this helps...
 
I had the same question until it dawned on me to look at the red line and it is like the width of the needle below 6000. Well I never get close to that and so I just shift when I feel like it. I can say I keep it above 2000 on the low end and will downshift to pass anywhere under 3000.
 
If its a new 2012 bike the info including shifting parameters for the break in period are covered in the owners manual. Starts on page 82 with downshifting info on page 88.
 
If its a new 2012 bike the info including shifting parameters for the break in period are covered in the owners manual. Starts on page 82 with downshifting info on page 88.

The owners manual shows too low of an RPM for the shift points IMHO
 
Thanks for everyone's reply. I am currently still in the break-in period, and am taking it easy. The numbers given are pretty much what I thought, but this clears it up. Will check the owners manual again.
 
Just got a new Street Glide and need some info regarding the rpms and shifting. Searched the owner's manual and can't find what I need. Need to get a service manual asap. I have never had a tach before and want to know:

1. At what rpm should I up-shift?
2. What rpm should I down-shift?
3. What should the rpm be when at highway speed
to keep from lugging engine?

Any information will be greatly appreciated.

The manual is only a guide and there's really no bad way unless your lugging the motor. When your running the motor you can feel the power zone and when you need to shift up just by the feel and I don't have a tach either. When your accelerating the engine will have a surge of torque and then seem to peak almost like it's telling you to go up.
Downshifting can be done by the odometer for example (my method): 6th to 5th speeds under 75MPH. 5th to 4th speeds under 50MPH. 4th to 3rd speeds under 40MPH. 3rd to 2nd speeds under 30MPH and 1st when the bike is coming to a stop under 5MPH.
I run my 5th gear for upper MPH unless I am running over 75MPH sustained speeds. If I'm just jumping up to 75 just to accelerate I don't bother. I believe this will not only keep the engine from lugging, it will minimize pinging, excess carbon buildup and keep the engine cooler by moving oil well. I have also found my mileage is better.
Remember that there is a rev limiter built into the electronics that will not allow the engine to sustain damage by running the RPM's too high so the only thing that will happen is when the gear peaks it will feel like a flat spot...nothing more. I have never felt the limiter because I know when my motor needs to go up a gear and with practice so will you. These motors love to be torqued and in a short time you will learn when your motor is talking to you.....
 
Found this in the Self Help...

tn425s3.jpg

Tank, nice info thanks for sharing......I am really impressed with this forum.
 
It all depends on road condition and how you ride. I have a 2012 SG and as a general rule I dont run it less than 2500 in any gear. I find that running through the gears and shifting at 4000rpm is very spirited acceleration, and really dont do that very often, 3000-3200rpm through the gears is brisk but still civialized. Once you get some more seat time in you will find what feels good to you, and so long as you are not lugging the motor you should be just fine. as far as downshifting goes, I tend to use more hand and foot braking than I do engine braking so my downshifts generaly tend to lag a bit behind vehicle speed and the engine doesnt rev as I ease out on the clutch. Again you will find what feels right to you as you ride more.

The manual is only a guide and there's really no bad way unless your lugging the motor. When your running the motor you can feel the power zone and when you need to shift up just by the feel and I don't have a tach either. When your accelerating the engine will have a surge of torque and then seem to peak almost like it's telling you to go up.
Downshifting can be done by the odometer for example (my method): 6th to 5th speeds under 75MPH. 5th to 4th speeds under 50MPH. 4th to 3rd speeds under 40MPH. 3rd to 2nd speeds under 30MPH and 1st when the bike is coming to a stop under 5MPH.
I run my 5th gear for upper MPH unless I am running over 75MPH sustained speeds. If I'm just jumping up to 75 just to accelerate I don't bother. I believe this will not only keep the engine from lugging, it will minimize pinging, excess carbon buildup and keep the engine cooler by moving oil well. I have also found my mileage is better.
Remember that there is a rev limiter built into the electronics that will not allow the engine to sustain damage by running the RPM's too high so the only thing that will happen is when the gear peaks it will feel like a flat spot...nothing more. I have never felt the limiter because I know when my motor needs to go up a gear and with practice so will you. These motors love to be torqued and in a short time you will learn when your motor is talking to you.....

Reread these two posts very carefully. Excellent advice IMHO.
 
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