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Replacing the Grip to TCA Harness

Dr. Dolittle

Dr. Dolittle

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It finally warmed up enough earlier this week that I suited up and went for a ride. Just puttered around some favorite local roads and then stopped at a Starbucks for a break. Leaving I noticed my "check engine light" was still on but I was so close to home I pressed on in the Limp Mode with emergency flashers on. Pulled DTC codes when I got home and got P1511 and P2101. Did some searching on the forum and determined that this is pretty common and most people clear the codes, clean the connection at the Throttle Control Actuator (TCA), and have no further problems.

Finally got some free time today so I removed the air cleaner cover to get at the TCA connector for a good cleaning. When I pulled the connector off, a small piece of plastic dropped into my hand. It's part of the mechanism that secures the connector in a firm, closed position. In other words, the clip that secures the TCA connector in place no longer functions and the connector is very loose.

Seems like I have two options - cut off the old connector and rewire a new one or replace the entire harness that runs from the throttle on the right hand grip down to the TCA.

My initial look made it seem like this harness goes up under the fuel tank, up the frame to the inner fairing, and then emerges from the inner fairing to snake up the handlebars to the grip. Doesn't seem like it would be too hard to replace.

Anyone done this job? How hard was it? How long did it take? How much did the harness cost?
 
Why not just clean the pins in the connector, apply a bit of dialectic grease on them. Put it back together then squirt a drop of crazy glue on it? I have done this with connectors numerous time and if I need to pull them apart again I just put a bit of solvent where I put that drop of glue on it.
 
STEVE07 said:
Why not just clean the pins in the connector, apply a bit of dialectic grease on them. Put it back together then squirt a drop of crazy glue on it? I have done this with connectors numerous time and if I need to pull them apart again I just put a bit of solvent where I put that drop of glue on it.
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Hmmm.....that's a great idea. With the clip not working properly I didn't want that connector working itself loose enough to kill the bike or throw the same codes and put the bike into limp mode. I already cleaned the pins and applied the dielectric grease - that's when I discovered the clip wasn't working.

Is there a specific combination of glue/solvent that you've found works best? I'll probably run a bead of glue instead of just a drop to ensure no movement of the connector. Even if the solvent didn't work 100% a good, sharp razor knife should be able to break the glue bead.
 
You know I'll always try the cheap quick fix before parting with green stuff. Try crazy glue and/or thin safety wire on the connector.
 
Not sure what style of connector is used there, but you may be able to buy just the connector body from HD. Many of them are available over the parts counter. If you have the correct tool, it is a pretty simple job to remove the pins from your old connector and push them into the new one. Just make sure you pay attention to position on each pin when it is reinserted into the new body. Good luck.
 
I'd tend to agree with Jennmarr...if u can find a vendor for the Duetch (sp ?) Connectors, its a fairly simple task with only a couple bucks spent. The connectors are standardized per the number of pins.

Learning how to release the first pin is the only real challenge....
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Well, the saga continues. The connector is now only one of my problems.

Before using the Krazy Glue option, I wanted to be sure the codes were all clear. The P1511 and P2101 codes were gone but now I get a P0120 that will not clear - TPS1 Range Error. I tried cycling the ignition switch on and off about 10 times without touching the throttle (read that after doing a search for "P0120" on this forum) but the code will not clear. The bike will start but the RPM will not go above 2000 no matter how far I twist the throttle.

Do I need to take the right grip off and get in for a close look at the TBW mechanism in there? I've read that some sort of micro fretting can occur in there - would that perhaps throw the P0120 code?
 
Jennmarr said:
Not sure what style of connector is used there, but you may be able to buy just the connector body from HD. Many of them are available over the parts counter. If you have the correct tool, it is a pretty simple job to remove the pins from your old connector and push them into the new one. Just make sure you pay attention to position on each pin when it is reinserted into the new body. Good luck.
Click to expand...

This is what I had mentioned as my first option in the OP. I've never done it before but it sounds like you're saying each pin can be removed and then reinserted into the new connector without any cutting, splicing, etc. I'll have to look into this, thanks.
 
Dr. Dolittle said:
This is what I had mentioned as my first option in the OP. I've never done it before but it sounds like you're saying each pin can be removed and then reinserted into the new connector without any cutting, splicing, etc. I'll have to look into this, thanks.
Click to expand...


That is indeed what I am saying. If you have the parts catalog that supplements the factory service manual, you should be able to look up the HD part number for the connector body, and the service manual will identify, by number, the correct position for each pin.
 
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