replacing back pads on 92 fatboy
- Thread starter tucks
- Start date
This covers it pretty well and also the choice of pads too...
Always check the self help area first, most topics are covered in there and if you don't have a factory manual, I would suggest getting one.
Replacing Rear Brake Pads (Softail) - Harley Davidson Community
Always check the self help area first, most topics are covered in there and if you don't have a factory manual, I would suggest getting one.
Replacing Rear Brake Pads (Softail) - Harley Davidson Community
I personally prefer to use hd brake pads as they are a good material match for the rotors and should not cause rapid wear overheating or warping of the rotors
first thing to do is to push the calliper from the outside to wards the wheel this should push the outer pad against the rotor and push the brake piston back into the calliper (it wont come off if you don't do this)
then remove the 2 pins that hod the calliper in place they look like allen head bolts but are pins unscrew them and remove
lift the calliper off and support it with a zip tie or bungee so that there is no strain on the brake hose
the 2 pads will then be seen held in place with a spring clip take note of exactly where the spring clip is seated and remove it
easiest way is to remove and replace 1 pad at a time by slipping it off the frame the other pad that is still on will hold the guides in place
I coat the back of a new pad with copper grease it helps prevent squeal
once the 2 new pads are in place refit the spring clip
then ensure the piston is fully back in the calliper using a G clamp to push the piston fully in makes it easy
refit the calliper over the pads and fit and secure the pins
pump the brake a few times to ensure the piston has seated both pads against the rotor
first thing to do is to push the calliper from the outside to wards the wheel this should push the outer pad against the rotor and push the brake piston back into the calliper (it wont come off if you don't do this)
then remove the 2 pins that hod the calliper in place they look like allen head bolts but are pins unscrew them and remove
lift the calliper off and support it with a zip tie or bungee so that there is no strain on the brake hose
the 2 pads will then be seen held in place with a spring clip take note of exactly where the spring clip is seated and remove it
easiest way is to remove and replace 1 pad at a time by slipping it off the frame the other pad that is still on will hold the guides in place
I coat the back of a new pad with copper grease it helps prevent squeal
once the 2 new pads are in place refit the spring clip
then ensure the piston is fully back in the calliper using a G clamp to push the piston fully in makes it easy
refit the calliper over the pads and fit and secure the pins
pump the brake a few times to ensure the piston has seated both pads against the rotor
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I just went out and looked yes they are torx
If they will not move it has been a while since they were serviced last which is a worry on the back brake as the bleeder and brake hose could also be seized
first thing i would try is a hand impact driver if that failed i would use an air impact driver
if it still refused to move i would then start trying to apply heat to the calliper but using a gas torch around the paint and the tire can cause damage to other stuff
Brian
If they will not move it has been a while since they were serviced last which is a worry on the back brake as the bleeder and brake hose could also be seized
first thing i would try is a hand impact driver if that failed i would use an air impact driver
if it still refused to move i would then start trying to apply heat to the calliper but using a gas torch around the paint and the tire can cause damage to other stuff
Brian
I would rather open the bleeder to collapse the pistons than pushing the old brake fluid back into the system.
War Horse
Member
True, but some degree of experience is required for that, and the OP seems to have problems with frozen hardware and other issues.:newsmile07: