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Removing inner screw on TPS

Glsec507

Glsec507

Member
I have an 06 road king. I want to swap out my throttle position sensor but I'm having trouble finding the right tool/s in order to do so.

According to the service manual I just have to remove the air cleaner and backing plate and then unplug and unscrew two torx screws which hold the sensor in place. Problem is the screw on the left side of the sensor (closest to cylinders) is so close to the rear cylinder I can't fit my torx bit and right angle wrench in there.

Anybody do this swap before without removing the throttle body or top of the cylinder? Any suggestions???

Thanks
 
Have you tried a 1/4" micro driver? I have found this kit useful in tight situations, if the torx bit can fit between the TPS and the cylinder head, this will usually work. You should check the TPS before installing to make sure it needs replacing. What gives you reason to think the TPS is malfunctioning?
 

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Welcome from So. Texas. Dolt has you covered for the tool. You may need a 1/4 " box/open end wrench also.
tourbox
 
I can fit a torx bit into the screw but the small right angle ratching wrench that fits over the bit wouldn't fit with it. And the fins on the rear cylinder are at just enough of an angle to not allow a straight torx driver to fit either. I'll find an open ended ratching wrench and see if the works. Didn't think of that!
Reason for swapping the sensor.... essentially just because. My 06 road king has 39,000 miles and is a retire police service motorcycle. I have no idea what services have been conducted in its lifetime. I recently road in a rally that ended in a congested downtown area which had us driving in tight, slow moving formation for about 10 min. During that time my RKs idle dropped really low and wanted to die out unless I gave it continuous throttle. It did die once but started right back up. After we parked and came back about 1.5 hrs later she started up just fine and ran normally all the way home. First time I noticed this issue. I tried to replicate the issue by finding some rush hour traffic to simulate the conditions experienced during the rally. Just as I thought she was dropping rpms again traffic opened up and things were fine.

So as a precaution based on some research I've decided to replace the TPS, the Engine Temp Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. From what I've read all the symptoms of those sensors failing in one or multiple ways are what I experienced. And since no error codes have been thrown I had no real place to start. Since these sensors were cheap and relatively easily accessible I figured why not.

My fuel filter and hoses checked out so that wasn't the cause.

And I used the same tool Dolt mentioned and that would not fit...
 
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Your described symptoms of low idle/dying when hot are exactly what I and many others have experienced. My (and others) culprit was a dirty IAC (idle air control) passage. Very easy remedy, only need a can of throttle body cleaner (or carb) and stick the nozzle in the hole at 12:00 in front of your throttle butterfly and squirt away. It's good to have a white rag behind the butterfly to see how much black gunk comes out. Also spray the IAC pintle located at 10:00 in front of the buttefly, then turn ign. on and let it cycle, and spray again.
 
When doing various upgrades over the winter I did attempt to clean IAC just because while I had the air cleaner off. I will try that again as you described. Thanks
 
It almost sounds like you went into parade mode from over heating. It will drop 1 cylinder, I think the rear, to cool down the motor. As soon as air/wind circulation is restored and the motor starts to cool it goes back to normal. It will also restore the dead cylinder after reaching 2K rpms. from idle.
tourbox
 
tourbox said:
It almost sounds like you went into parade mode from over heating. It will drop 1 cylinder, I think the rear, to cool down the motor. As soon as air/wind circulation is restored and the motor starts to cool it goes back to normal. It will also restore the dead cylinder after reaching 2K rpms. from idle.
tourbox
Click to expand...

It was a cooler day and I'd be surprised if it reached parade mode so quickly. Maybe I have other issues causing it to heat up so quickly? The rally was a couple miles of 30-50mph on the highway and then approx 10 min of slow speed maneuvering and/or just stop and go through downtown.
Also parade mode shouldn't cause the engine to actually stall right? Because the one time I wasn't able to catch the rpm drop with some throttle it promptly died out.
 
I'm not positive, but I don't think '06 have parade mode (EITMS). I think it was the '07's (96 in) that first had it.
 
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