Rear Wheel Install Help

[Dr.Evil]

I had to replace a dammaged tire so I pulled the rear wheel off last night (first time) it was difficult to get the caliper past the wheel.

I am going to remove the pads from caliper to make more room. There was a rubber duhicky that came out of the caliper mount. How does this go back in? and at what point of the procedure?

Any other tricks?

I was going to replace the axle shaft in the opposit direction with the nut on the exhaust side, any reason not to do this?

Does the shaft need lube?

 

[fin_676]

I cant help on the brake side of things my bikes are all older
i cant see any real problem with putting the axel in from the left side but just make sure that you have full clearance from the silencer as it will stick out a wee bit further than the bolt head and it may be a bit of a pest to get the split pin in if the silencer is fitted just make sure the split pin hole is orientated in a direction you can get at with the silencer fitted and always use a new split pin
i find that to leave it the stock way and just remove the silencer is the easiest for me a wee bit of copper grease roun the end of the header pipe helps the silencer slip off next time
with the silencer out of the way gives a wee bit more room to geal with the rear brake and its carrier

Brian

 

[fisherman124]

whats ur reason to change the axel nut to other side . curious ?

 

[HarryB737]

My best advice 1st is to refer to the manual. I know why you want to reverse the axil (because of the exhaust), I had that thought too, as I just had to replace my rear tire, but I didn't, I put things back like they were. There is a tab at the bottom of the caliper that the caliper has to slide into on my '09, but they've changed the design between your year model & mine. I would definately use anti-seize on the axil when you go back together, as it will help it slide out of its bearings & races the next time the wheel has to come off. Take your time & don't let things intimidate you... You Can Do IT !!

ps... Learn the terminology (Do-hickey)

 

[chester1957]

The caliper mount anchors to the swing arm with a slot, the rubber piece pulls the a hole in the slot and keeps the caliper mount from rattling on the swing arm lug and can be put in before you slide the caliper mount back into place. I spray the area with some glass cleaner and makes sliding it back together easier.

The axle goes thru the way it does, so if the bearings seize it tightens the axle nut vs unscrewing it. Seen it reversed many times and have not heard of anyone having any problems.

 

[TQuentin1]

I had to replace a dammaged tire so I pulled the rear wheel off last night (first time) it was difficult to get the caliper past the wheel.

I find it easier to do this by removing the left hand exhaust can to give myself more room to work. Then, I put the bike on a center lift. Remove the axle then jack the bike up so the shocks are fully extended and the wheel is almost off the ground. I then start to cant the top of the tire to the get it to clear the caliper, leaving the caliper in its normal place. Jack the bike higher as necessary to accomplish this.

I am going to remove the pads from caliper to make more room. There was a rubber duhicky that came out of the caliper mount. How does this go back in? and at what point of the procedure?

I strongly advise AGAINST doing this. It is difficult to get the pads back in around the rotor, and especially if the anti-rattler has come out.

The rubber dohicky is a bumper on the caliper support arm and fits in the channel.

Any other tricks?

Putting the wheel back on is kinda the reverse of taking it off. I cant the tire/rim over the caliper and then let the wheel fall so that the rotor is below the caliper/pads. Make sure the pistons are fully retracted and the pads spread open so the rotor can slide in between. Slowly lower the bike until the axle can be inserted through the swing arm, hub and other side of the swing arm.

I was going to replace the axle shaft in the opposit direction with the nut on the exhaust side, any reason not to do this?

I would NOT do that, expecially if your axle has the eccentric adjuster.

Does the shaft need lube?

Yes. Anti-seize lube as indicated in the HD Factory Service Manual.

TQ

 

[Dr.Evil]

Thanks for all the help everyone.
The wheel is back on.
I did reverse the axle, and the shaft clears the pipe just fine.
I have replaced brake pads, so I removed the pads from the caliper and everything went together great.

I did not change the alignment pins so how important is having the alignment checked?

How do I know if the belt is aligned properly? will it not always ride to one side?

 

[HDDon]

I've got a 94 FLSTC, so I don't know if it will help. I marked a center point on my swingarm hex head and I measure from there to the center of the axel on each side.

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

Thanks for all the help everyone.
The wheel is back on.
I did reverse the axle, and the shaft clears the pipe just fine.
I have replaced brake pads, so I removed the pads from the caliper and everything went together great.

I did not change the alignment pins so how important is having the alignment checked?

How do I know if the belt is aligned properly? will it not always ride to one side?

This is what the rear axle alignment tool looks like. If you have a hollow axle (so true center is a big hole) they make cone shaped spacer with tiny hole in center to find true center and make alignment easier at your friendly neighborhood hardware store. :small3d015:

http://www.hdtimeline.com/chassis_suspension_and_front_end/18141-softail_wheel_alignment.html