Opening brake caliper for new pads

[Butch]

When installing new pads, the gap between them was closed considerably compared to the old pads, making it impossible to but the caliper back on the rotor.

My solution was to take a turkey baster (thanks wife) and remove about 25%- 30% of the brake fluid from the reservoir to release the pressure from the piston - Don't remove more than 50% of the fluid or you'll risk air getting into the system.

Next, I slid a wood door shim between the pads. The wedge shape pushed the piston back to open the distance up. And the soft wood left no damage on the brake pads.

With everything reinstalled and torqued, I topped off the brake fluid, pumped the lever about 15 times, and I was good to go.

You can get door shims - used when installing a new door or window - in packs of 10 or 12 at Menard's, Ace, Lowe's, just about anyplace that sells home improvement items. They're soft pine about 10 inches long and about a 1/8 inch wide at their thickest end.

 

[USMCCWO5]

Good call, I have pads on order and door shims in my scrap wood pile. Better than the putty knife recommendation in the service manual. BTW, I ordered the Lyndall Z-Plus pads (3 sets) for my FLHRC.

 

[paul b.]

I'd like to add that this should only be done with clean brake fluid in the system. If the fluid is dirty it should be expelled through the bleeder valve instead of being pushed back up into the mastercylinder. Easy enough to do with three hands but possible with two. Paul

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

I'd like to add that this should only be done with clean brake fluid in the system. If the fluid is dirty it should be expelled through the bleeder valve instead of being pushed back up into the mastercylinder. Easy enough to do with three hands but possible with two. Paul

Speaking about dirt...make sure you clean everything around the extended pistons with Brakekleen (non chlorinated) over some rags (don't let those contaminants go into the street storm drains polluting our oceans) and wipe everything down before doing the wedge shim procedure...otherwise when you push the pistons into the bores, you may force bits of road grime in along with them, causing sticking pistons/calipers which will cause pre-mature/uneven pad wear or dragging brakes. Don't forget to follow your service manual and lubricate the pins...FYI :coffee

 

[krikket]

And don't forget to throw out that turkey baster!!! Or at least label it "brake fluid only".

 

[NEWHD74FAN]

And don't forget to throw out that turkey baster!!! Or at least label it "brake fluid only".

Ha! Good reminder considering the holiday season -- "I'd like a little ethylene glycol or silicone with my gravy please...!

 

[latitude2004]

I goofed on the rear and not only took out the small pins but I loosened the big pins not knowing the fluid would leak out.

Now by the rear brake pedal is the rear master cylindar, but it does not look like it drives fluid directly to the rear caliper.

Do I put the fluid dirrectly into the read caliper? Bleeding process the same then? :eam

HELP!

Thanks
Jack

 

[glider]

You add to the master cylinder only and bleed the brakes out again until you have a good feel on the pedal.