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Low Oil Pressure At Idle

ChopperDoc

ChopperDoc

Active Member
I have a 2000 FLHTC with 35K miles. I was having a problem with low oil pressure at both cold and hot idle so I installed a Feuling high-flow pump and heavy duty cam plate. I also replaced the timing chains and tensioners at the same time. I didn't find any trash in the cases.

I have better oil pressure at start-up and highway speeds but still nothing at idle at operating temps. Any ideas what might be going on?

I am going to put gear drive cams in this winter and kind of wanted to hold off opening the engine up again till then....but if you gotta you gotta.

Also, has anyone had any experience with the new S&S gear drive cams with the built-in compression releases?
 
ChopperDoc said:
I have a 2000 FLHTC with 35K miles. I was having a problem with low oil pressure at both cold and hot idle so I installed a Feuling high-flow pump and heavy duty cam plate. I also replaced the timing chains and tensioners at the same time. I didn't find any trash in the cases.

I have better oil pressure at start-up and highway speeds but still nothing at idle at operating temps. Any ideas what might be going on?

I am going to put gear drive cams in this winter and kind of wanted to hold off opening the engine up again till then....but if you gotta you gotta.

Also, has anyone had any experience with the new S&S gear drive cams with the built-in compression releases?
Click to expand...

Have you verified 0 pressure with a master gauge in place of the oil sender?
 
I did check the pressure with a manual guage before I started the project. I was thinking (hoping) bad guage or sending unit. The manual guage read within a couple of pounds of the dash mounted unit.

Something I didn't mention in my initial post - My tensioners were only about 25% worn - I only replaced them because I was already in the case and the cost was minimal.

Nope, no idiot light or other taps, just the (original) stock guage.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would check the pressure relief valve in the cam support plate as the material from the chain tensioners can cause it to stick.Hope this helps.:newsmile040:
 
TQuentin1 said:
Yep, what he said ^^^^^^^^^^.

You might also consider installing the Baisley spring (LMR-002). Should boost your oil pressure 10-15%.

Baisley Hi-Performance Oil Spring Product

TQ
Click to expand...

Good suggestions on the two above post..

I went with fueling oil pump, delkron cam support plate 00 fxds. My idle Hot was 14+ lbs on the pressure @ least 1100 rpm's not 750 potato potato....

Idle is needed to be up to 1100 1200 for the pumps to work enough to increase oil flow.

If not Mis-Aligned oil pump.
I'm hoping the spring by-pass to be the problem and Not Worn out bearings in the motor
It just doesn't sound right to have that Low of pressure with That pump and plate...

signed....BUBBIE
 
Self inflicted pain here folks - Operator head-gap set too loose. I (wrongly) assumed that the gauge I was using to compare with my indash guage was working properly - Wrong! The guage was on the shelf so I assumed that it was good since I am not one to collect parts for the sake of having lots of parts.

I appreciate all of the helpful advice and it will serve me well in the future should I run across this problem again.

I replaced the sending unit and the indash gauge and everything is working fine. I am still glad I installed the feuling high-flow pump - a ten year old bike can use the extra oil flow.

Winter project - Gear-drive cams and a top end redo. Don't know if I will just do a ring replacement or go ahead and punch it up, it all depends on how the jugs look when I get it apart. I am more about seeing the countryside than I am about getting there first but the costs being so low I might just go ahead and add a little HP and torque while the bike is down.
Again, thank you for all of your help.

I gave up schedules when I retired - I avoid highways (nothing to see) and I get there when I get there. I agree with the statement "It is about the ride, not the destination".
 
ChopperDoc,

Maybe post your oil pressures so others can see what you show on the feuling oil pump..

cold idle =
cold run=
hot idle=
hot run=
This type of information would be appreciated.. Thanks!

signed....BUBBIE

The older 88 TC's needed the oil to be removed along with increased and the feuling pump does that.
 
ChopperDoc said:
Self inflicted pain here folks - Operator head-gap set too loose.
Click to expand...

Don't fret it Doc, we have all done that! I chased "lifter" problems for months - exhaust leak!!

ChopperDoc said:
Winter project - Gear-drive cams and a top end redo. Don't know if I will just do a ring replacement or go ahead and punch it up, it all depends on how the jugs look when I get it apart.
Click to expand...

Not trying to throw a wrench in here, but the gear drive option has its own set of issues. You might want to surf the self-help and Engine, Fuel and Exhaust pages below for some discussion of pros and cons. The roller chain conversion is a good option and more tolerant of any pinion shaft runout issues than the gear drive. The pressed cranks (especially earlier ones) do come into play on the decision. Personal choice however.

Harley Davidson Engine Related Issues - Harley Davidson Community

Engine, Fuel and Exhaust - Harley Davidson Community

TQ
 
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