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Life expectancy of Caliper

Well I replaced the rotor, replaced the pads, cleaned up the caliper with brakeleen with the pucks extended out quite a bit but not out of the bores. everything looks good....everything is working fine after 4 hours of bleeding the brakes..!!! Now after 100 miles I got brake squeal again.....

Sorry for all the following questions, but it will help to troubleshoot source of the problem:

Question 1) Are the brake pads stock HD (somewhat soft friction material) or "high performance" (semi-metallic aftermarket somewhat harder friction material)? Also, do the pads have slot in the friction material to allow debris and water to clear the swept area?

Question 2) The new rotor(s), are they stock HD or high performance rotors and did you do the same using sanding block w/ wet/dry sandpaper in circular motions to put a random satin finish on the swept surfaces, then clean off any contaminates using water or Brakleen over rags?

Question 3) Did you roughen the friction surface of the new pads with sanding block w/ wet/dry sandpaper in circular motions to remove manufacturing marks/sprue then clean off any contaminates using water or Brakleen over rags?

Question 4) Are the sheet metal shims that clipped firmly to the pad clean and contact the piston as before...Did they have any evidence of "old Blue stuff" (per previous post regarding HD Service Bulletin "Noise Fix" as evidence of HD previous troubleshooting, so clean old off and put new stuff on). Thermal/performance apparently is not an issue in this application

Question 5) Did you remember to check pins for wear/grooving/fit and lube the pins and the calipers "float freely, fit snuggly and slide evenly without "wobble" over the rotor swept surfaces.

Question 6) Do you see evidence of "stutter" type wear pattern on the rotors, as if the pads were engaging improperly instead of flat and even circular wear pattern on them?

Question 7) Is the squeal a low pitched vibration when the bike is moving slowly, and only high pitched when deaccelerating from high speed and can you hear the squeal just pushing the bike rather than a light "swish" sound?

Question 8) If all above was done, during your 100 mile breakin did you use regular firm braking, with periods allowing pads to separate and cool? Make sure that you did not overheat them, as the pad surfaces can get "glazed" (basically hard carbon burned surface) if used during say a long downhill braking sequence. You will see evidence on the pads when you inspect them prior to repeating the steps 1-4...while you are troubleshooting...:coffee

If all the steps are done you should be able to isolate the problem. :33:
 
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First off, let's define "squeal". As far as brakes go, it's caused by a vibration. Assuming the caliper is tight, the rotor is tight and within discard specs, the only thing left to make a vibration would be the brake pads. When I worked for GM, Nissan and Midas, our fix for squeaky brakes (after a break in period) was to coat the back of the pads (1/8") with RTV. Assuming you have installed everything correctly and everything is within specs (rotor, torque specs) this should take care of it.

newhdfan74 said that blue anti-squeak stuff changes the pitch, which is true, but it usually (in my experiences) dampens the vibrations to the point of no resonation. Brake squeals can be maddening!!!!! Good luck.
 
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Brake squeal after 100miles after a new installation can also be caused by improper break in if you brake hard on new brake pads and rotors you can glaze them instantly causing a squeal as with anything else there is a proper break in gently depress your brakes for short periods of time I do this a about 30 mph. I have never had a problem. A properly seated brake will also last longer. If you have glazed them you can take a fine emory or sandpaper to the pad and rotor surfaces and start over.
 
I got a 2003 Heritage with 98k miles

I'm not sure on the squealing as I figured all the stuff you fixed or replaced would cure the squealing....maybe as others have said in this thread, get the rebuild kit and rebuild the caliper vice just cleaning it....

HOLY MOLEY!!! (<--Thanks HDTimeline) I thought my 2002 Heritage with 62K on the clock was bad.....

Later,
2002SilverSurfer
 
SO here I am a year later...107k miles....new rotor, new caliper, of course new pads...put over 1000 miles on it. I got squeal and vibration which worsens as a decrease speed while brakinf with the front brake...Im beginning to think its something in the forks. Or perhaps the steering head..... It rides on down the road smooth as hot butter but as soon as Im braking at slow speeds (say from about 30mpg to 10 mph) I can really feel it..Even more of braking into a turn, or turning (zig-zagging down a slope of hill)
 
If u have vibration check the rotor for runout this can also cause noise as well as pulsation
 
If u have vibration check the rotor for runout this can also cause noise as well as pulsation
So, I got the wheel checked out at MOCO...rims true, rotor within specs no warpage....So to summarize I got a rotor thats 11mths old (8k miles) new Master clylinder, new caliper and of course pads. I bring it in and the service manager takes it for a ride and tells me he cant really feel anything and that its normal to him....LOL. Trust me this front braking (especially when turning i.e.U-turn or tight slow turning, is so obvious it feels like you gotta put a foot out to stop from laying the bike out (grab and release. I think it might be the forks...what do you think?
 
Drummer,
I have a couple of questions. Were ALL the replacement parts(rotor,caliper,linings) all Genuine HD. Did the replacement linings have a chamfer (Patent US5443133) on the leading edge.

Hoop!
 
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