Ok guys...
Here's a great summary of a complete fluid service that joyflyin did for us that outlines what she did on her 05 softail deuce to change the fluids.
About the only thing I can add here is to keep the receipts for the oil and filters should they be needed as proof in the future that services were done.
Thanks to Joy for this and just proves that the dealer isn't necessary when you have the factory manual and some basic tools plus the determination to do it yourself.
Here's Joys other service...
Joyflyin Does Another Service - Harley Davidson Community
You Can Do It Yourself
by joyflyin
After reading around on the forum, I decided I could change the oils on my bike. With the help of Glider & many other great folks, I did it. I am going to attempt to summarize the experience in hopes of easing the fear for any other first timers out there.
I am not a mechanic at all. I can change the oil in my cars, change a flat if I have to, and I used to work on my mountain bikes. I am good at passing tools to my brother & husband in their projects. That’s my experience.
I decided what fluid combination I wanted to use, I went with Mobil 1 V Twin for the engine, HD Formula + for the primary and Spectro Platinum for the transmission.
I gathered up all the supplies, picked the brains of some of the local shop mechanics and finally got the time to accomplish the job. I will try to list to the best of my abilities what all I had.
What You Will Need
For the bike I had 1 quart of transmission oil, 1 quart of primary oil, and I bought 4 quarts of engine oil. Although I was told at a local dealer, I would need 2 ½ to 3 quarts, the service manual for my bike said to fill with ‘no more than 3.5 quarts’, so I wanted to be safe. I also had a gasket for the derby cover, 2 o-rings to replace on the oil and transmission drain plugs, and the new oil filter.
I hope I get the tools listed correctly. I had a ratchet, a four inch extension, a 5/8” socket, a 3/8” allen wrench, a 3/16” allen, and a T27 torx bit.
Other items included a drain pan for the oils, a roll of shop towels, a couple of old hand towels handy for the good messes, 2 funnels (one regular short funnel, and one with a flexible hose), and a bike lift. I also had the instructions printed out with pictures from HDTimeline.com, the service manual for my bike, and the laptop handy in case I had to look something up.
I also got creative during the project and added these items to the required equipment. I got a mirror from my bathroom, aided in locating the drain plugs; I swapped the regular automotive drain pan for a disposable aluminum baking pan, and a plastic water bottle that I cut in half, and a set of measuring cups.
I put the jack under the bike where I hoped it would work best. I only raised the bike enough to get it level, the next time I will raise it higher since I am much more comfortable raising and lowering the bike now.
Before changing the oils, it is recommended to ride the bike to get the fluids up to operating temperatures. 10 miles or so should be enough. After I rode mine, I raised it on the lift and let it cool off a bit before working on it.
Changing the Oil
Remove the oil fill plug, (I checked the oil just to get an idea of what was in the bike to start).
With the bike level, I loosened the oil drain plug using the 5/8” socket until I could turn it with my fingers. I then I slid the drain pan under the bike and removed the plug to drain the oil. Since I didn’t raise the bike too high, the standard drain pan was not real convenient, that’s when I went around looking for a better option. That’s when I realized I had the aluminum baking pans. It is disposable and flexible that way I could adjust the sides if needed to get it under the bike.
The manual recommends using the oil filter wrench with the 4” extension to remove the filter. Typically that works well. If the oil filter is over tightened, you will struggle and have to resort to alternative measures. I got my filter off, but made quite a mess. I think the next time I do that, I will try to get another plastic jug or bottle of some sort and see if I can divert some of the oil from the filter to a pan instead of all over the bike. There are several ideas listed on the forum of ways to make this process better.
After removing the old filter, I wiped everything clean with the shop towels. And replaced the o-ring on the oil drain plug and replaced it into the bike. I then took a dab of oil and rubbed it around the gasket of the new oil filter. After wiping down the bike again I installed the new oil filter. When I installed the new filter, I got it started on the threads, and then I tightened it until it was snug and then continued about ¾ of a turn past that.
The trick I was taught is to tighten the filter and as you do, you can move the filter. It will ‘wobble’ a little bit. When you get close to being snug, it won’t wobble as much. Once the seal touches, and the filter no longer wobbles, you will continue to tighten the filter 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. That is what the manual calls for also.
I then put 2 ½ quarts of oil in the oil tank. I do that and then check it on the side stand as the manual calls and add any more oil necessary then.
Changing the Transmission Oil
Using a 3/8” allen wrench, remove the transmission filler plug, I checked the oil level here also.
On my bike, (a softail deuce), my transmission drain plug is located on the bottom of the bike, between the 2 shocks. I had a hard time actually locating the plug, so I went into the house, dug the hand mirror out of the bathroom, and took it out and laid it on the ground under the bike. That helped me locate the plug.
Using the 5/8” socket, loosen the drain plug and drain the oil. Inspect the o-ring and replace if needed. They are about .50, so I generally replace them. After draining the oil, replace the drain plug and add the oil. I used a funnel with a hose to get the oil in the transmission to keep from making a mess. My manual said to fill with 20-24 ounces of oil. Again, I poured 20 ounces into my measuring cup and poured that into the funnel. I checked the fluid level and then added enough to bring it up to the required level.
Changing the Primary Oil
Remove the primary drain plug with a 3/16” allen wrench and drain the oil. Then, using a T27 torx bit, remove the derby cover from the side of the primary case. Remove the cover and the gasket. After the oil drains, reinstall the drain plug. You can then add the recommended amount of oil through the side of the primary.
Since my bike calls for 26 ounces of primary oil and the quart bottle was not marked to my likings, I ran back in the house and that’s when I broke out the measuring cups. (Yes, this time it was my nice pyrex cups) but after that I bought a set of cheap plastic ones that now live in my garage for these occasions.
I felt it was rather difficult to get the oil into the primary case, so that’s when I finished off the bottle of water and cut it in half, dried it off, and used that to stick into the opening on the primary and poured the oil down the water bottle. Once the oil was in, I replaced the derby gasket and reinstalled the derby cover. Be sure to use a star shaped sequence in tightening the bolts. The manual gives you a picture with the recommended sequence.
Another tip, while you are picking up your supplies at the dealer or shop you use, I would recommend keeping a replacement drain plug for the primary on hand. They are only about $4.00 and if you have a plug that was buggered up by a previous mechanic, you are not left with a bike you can’t ride.
Here's a great summary of a complete fluid service that joyflyin did for us that outlines what she did on her 05 softail deuce to change the fluids.
About the only thing I can add here is to keep the receipts for the oil and filters should they be needed as proof in the future that services were done.
Thanks to Joy for this and just proves that the dealer isn't necessary when you have the factory manual and some basic tools plus the determination to do it yourself.
Here's Joys other service...
Joyflyin Does Another Service - Harley Davidson Community
You Can Do It Yourself
by joyflyin
After reading around on the forum, I decided I could change the oils on my bike. With the help of Glider & many other great folks, I did it. I am going to attempt to summarize the experience in hopes of easing the fear for any other first timers out there.
I am not a mechanic at all. I can change the oil in my cars, change a flat if I have to, and I used to work on my mountain bikes. I am good at passing tools to my brother & husband in their projects. That’s my experience.
I decided what fluid combination I wanted to use, I went with Mobil 1 V Twin for the engine, HD Formula + for the primary and Spectro Platinum for the transmission.
I gathered up all the supplies, picked the brains of some of the local shop mechanics and finally got the time to accomplish the job. I will try to list to the best of my abilities what all I had.
What You Will Need
For the bike I had 1 quart of transmission oil, 1 quart of primary oil, and I bought 4 quarts of engine oil. Although I was told at a local dealer, I would need 2 ½ to 3 quarts, the service manual for my bike said to fill with ‘no more than 3.5 quarts’, so I wanted to be safe. I also had a gasket for the derby cover, 2 o-rings to replace on the oil and transmission drain plugs, and the new oil filter.
I hope I get the tools listed correctly. I had a ratchet, a four inch extension, a 5/8” socket, a 3/8” allen wrench, a 3/16” allen, and a T27 torx bit.
Other items included a drain pan for the oils, a roll of shop towels, a couple of old hand towels handy for the good messes, 2 funnels (one regular short funnel, and one with a flexible hose), and a bike lift. I also had the instructions printed out with pictures from HDTimeline.com, the service manual for my bike, and the laptop handy in case I had to look something up.
I also got creative during the project and added these items to the required equipment. I got a mirror from my bathroom, aided in locating the drain plugs; I swapped the regular automotive drain pan for a disposable aluminum baking pan, and a plastic water bottle that I cut in half, and a set of measuring cups.
I put the jack under the bike where I hoped it would work best. I only raised the bike enough to get it level, the next time I will raise it higher since I am much more comfortable raising and lowering the bike now.
Before changing the oils, it is recommended to ride the bike to get the fluids up to operating temperatures. 10 miles or so should be enough. After I rode mine, I raised it on the lift and let it cool off a bit before working on it.
Changing the Oil
Remove the oil fill plug, (I checked the oil just to get an idea of what was in the bike to start).
With the bike level, I loosened the oil drain plug using the 5/8” socket until I could turn it with my fingers. I then I slid the drain pan under the bike and removed the plug to drain the oil. Since I didn’t raise the bike too high, the standard drain pan was not real convenient, that’s when I went around looking for a better option. That’s when I realized I had the aluminum baking pans. It is disposable and flexible that way I could adjust the sides if needed to get it under the bike.
The manual recommends using the oil filter wrench with the 4” extension to remove the filter. Typically that works well. If the oil filter is over tightened, you will struggle and have to resort to alternative measures. I got my filter off, but made quite a mess. I think the next time I do that, I will try to get another plastic jug or bottle of some sort and see if I can divert some of the oil from the filter to a pan instead of all over the bike. There are several ideas listed on the forum of ways to make this process better.
After removing the old filter, I wiped everything clean with the shop towels. And replaced the o-ring on the oil drain plug and replaced it into the bike. I then took a dab of oil and rubbed it around the gasket of the new oil filter. After wiping down the bike again I installed the new oil filter. When I installed the new filter, I got it started on the threads, and then I tightened it until it was snug and then continued about ¾ of a turn past that.
The trick I was taught is to tighten the filter and as you do, you can move the filter. It will ‘wobble’ a little bit. When you get close to being snug, it won’t wobble as much. Once the seal touches, and the filter no longer wobbles, you will continue to tighten the filter 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. That is what the manual calls for also.
I then put 2 ½ quarts of oil in the oil tank. I do that and then check it on the side stand as the manual calls and add any more oil necessary then.
Changing the Transmission Oil
Using a 3/8” allen wrench, remove the transmission filler plug, I checked the oil level here also.
On my bike, (a softail deuce), my transmission drain plug is located on the bottom of the bike, between the 2 shocks. I had a hard time actually locating the plug, so I went into the house, dug the hand mirror out of the bathroom, and took it out and laid it on the ground under the bike. That helped me locate the plug.
Using the 5/8” socket, loosen the drain plug and drain the oil. Inspect the o-ring and replace if needed. They are about .50, so I generally replace them. After draining the oil, replace the drain plug and add the oil. I used a funnel with a hose to get the oil in the transmission to keep from making a mess. My manual said to fill with 20-24 ounces of oil. Again, I poured 20 ounces into my measuring cup and poured that into the funnel. I checked the fluid level and then added enough to bring it up to the required level.
Changing the Primary Oil
Remove the primary drain plug with a 3/16” allen wrench and drain the oil. Then, using a T27 torx bit, remove the derby cover from the side of the primary case. Remove the cover and the gasket. After the oil drains, reinstall the drain plug. You can then add the recommended amount of oil through the side of the primary.
Since my bike calls for 26 ounces of primary oil and the quart bottle was not marked to my likings, I ran back in the house and that’s when I broke out the measuring cups. (Yes, this time it was my nice pyrex cups) but after that I bought a set of cheap plastic ones that now live in my garage for these occasions.
I felt it was rather difficult to get the oil into the primary case, so that’s when I finished off the bottle of water and cut it in half, dried it off, and used that to stick into the opening on the primary and poured the oil down the water bottle. Once the oil was in, I replaced the derby gasket and reinstalled the derby cover. Be sure to use a star shaped sequence in tightening the bolts. The manual gives you a picture with the recommended sequence.
Another tip, while you are picking up your supplies at the dealer or shop you use, I would recommend keeping a replacement drain plug for the primary on hand. They are only about $4.00 and if you have a plug that was buggered up by a previous mechanic, you are not left with a bike you can’t ride.
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