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On fuel injected systems is there a way to adjust idle speed or is that totally computer done. Tfi installed and ac and v&h pipes, just seems to be idling high and I checked cables I guess I need to get a Tach.
 
On fuel injected systems is there a way to adjust idle speed or is that totally computer done. Tfi installed and ac and v&h pipes, just seems to be idling high and I checked cables I guess I need to get a Tach.

Not user adjustable without the HD Digital Technician (now probably the DT II - hard/expensive to get). Needs to be around 1k.

TQ
 
I don't know if I am missing something here, but I ride a 2000 uc, injected. The HD manual gives a procedure for setting the idle speed, which I have done on mine and several other bikes with no problem.
 
The idle speed on the newer bikes is to be at no less than 950 rpm. This is to allow for the proper flow of oil to the top end of the engine. If you lower it, you will accelerate wear, and increase the chance of premature failure in this area.
 
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If you are tempted to change the idle speed on a fuel injected bike, here's some info before doing this.

Other than lowering the supply of oil to the top end on the fuel injected bikes, they need a bit more power on the bottom end for keeping the battery up to snuff too with the higher idle due to the fuel pump and other equipment not found on carbed bikes.

The digital tech is required to adjust the idle speed and just turning the set screw on the throttle stop will raise the idle but the ECM logic will lower it again in short time. Now the only thing you have done is changed the settings for the TPS which in turn will change other settings too.
Don't do it!
 
This is what I like about this place you learn a lot from listening and reading. One question about the turning off the bike w/switch, could that be the reason for slightly higher idle on bike due to not shutting it down properly? dyna 07 low rider w/stage 1
 
There was a bulletin a while back that it seemed the problem for the higher idle on the FBW bikes was the fact that people were rolling on the throttle while shutting the bike down and thus the reason for the higher idle on a restart. Using the run switch to shut it off just eliminates the load from the ignition switch which over time would give a bit of an arc when the circuit is broken and could cause burning of the contacts in there.
 
There was a bulletin a while back that it seemed the problem for the higher idle on the FBW bikes was the fact that people were rolling on the throttle while shutting the bike down and thus the reason for the higher idle on a restart. Using the run switch to shut it off just eliminates the load from the ignition switch which over time would give a bit of an arc when the circuit is broken and could cause burning of the contacts in there.

Glider, that is interesting. I hadn't heard that before and it makes sense. I am going to have to learn to use the ignition switch only and leave the run switch in run position. Thanks. :)
 
Glider, that is interesting. I hadn't heard that before and it makes sense. I am going to have to learn to use the ignition switch only and leave the run switch in run position. Thanks. :)

Actually, I think if you read Glider's post again, he is suggesting that the "run" switch should be used to turn on the system for starting after turning on the main key switch, and turning off the "run" switch BEFORE turning off the key switch. So, sequence is:

Key switch on, "Run" switch on, Start, "Run" switch off, Key switch off.

TQ
 
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