I was wondering about 110 screaming Eagle top end noise at roughly 22k miles

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by stinger56, Oct 9, 2016.

  1. stinger56

    stinger56 Member

    I will try to make this somewhat short... but on request lol I can make it longer.
    I had some serious fuel injection work performed on my bike a short time ago.
    Everything from a blown out fuel pump, fuel rail cleaned,,,to needing new injectors, gas filters replaced. fuel tanks cleaned out,,,, to having the ACR's replaced. I also at that time had put new plugs and wires...
    This all stemmed from what I feel was vandalism to my gas tank with either a sport drink added or whatever.. added to my non locking gas cap to my 2010 Softail,, as it was sitting in a mall parking lot for a hour or so...
    On a what I am hoping is a non related matter,,, I now seem to have a bit of noisey top end at higher RPM's.. Cold, hot. motor.. no diff. I have not changed my oil yet and filter.. which I am going to do shortly... I have always been adament about changing my oil and filter.. using Syn. 3 20/50
  2. dbmg

    dbmg Guest

    I would start with a fresh oil and filter using a O.E. filter and a different 20W50 synthetic. Remember that sometimes the primary chain can sound like top engine noise. So I would also change primary oil and use HD Formula Plus in the correct quantity...
    When the fuel tank was serviced did they find debris?
  3. stinger56

    stinger56 Member

    I thank you very much dbmg for your reply and suggestion...
    There was a slight almost greenish tinge on the sides of the tanks... and also the dealer had brought my injectors to a local fuel injection company to see if they could get that residue out of the injectors... Of course they couldn't so that made for new injectors... which after the fixathon... my ACR's were now not doing their job properly..
  4. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

    I'm not sure about the green tint to the tank but I am surprised that the dealer didn't at least change the oil and filter after finding it. As was said before noise is a tough thing to pin down so before you do any more expensive parts changing make sure all the adjustments are correct. Can you give us a little more info on the noise? I doubt that you have piston slap with so few miles but if something foreign was added you never know. Did the dealer do a compression or leak down test?
  5. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    Oil pump problem? Check with a master gauge? See the self help section
  6. dolt

    dolt Senior Member

    You didn't mention oil pressure? What is it? The most common causes of top end is valve train related. In a stock motor, lash in the valve train or rocker shaft movement in the support at the two most common causes. Lash in the valve train could be the result of loose tolerances in the valve train stack up height or lifter(s) not holding their prime and bleeding down. Your comment that the noise is occurring at high rpms would indicate lifters not holding their prime under high load.

    If looking for a cure, pull the rocker shafts from the supports and look for witness marks that will indicate the shaft is moving in the support causing the noise. If witness marks are visible, install the Rocker Lockers; a cheap and easy fix if shaft movement is present.. There are old school methods that some employed before the Rocker Lockers appeared on the scene, like pinning the shaft in the support with set screws but the Rocker Lockers are much simpler to install.

    If shaft movement is not occurring, I would seriously consider replacing the lifters with a set of S&S Standards and replace the OEM pushrods with a set of HD Quick Adjustable Tapered (PN 18404-08) and setting the preload at about .135"-.145". You didn't mention the mileage?

    As has been mentioned, opening up the cam chest and inspecting tensioners would be a good idea although the later hydraulic units have been holding up well. Syn 3 is not causing the noise but, as suggested, changing motor oil would be a good idea as well. If you want to stick with synthetic, check out Redline's 20W60. A good 20W50 conventional oil, rated for motorcycles, is also a good choice. Actually, the HD 20W50 conventional is a good product.;)