David Maloof
Member
I have a 97 road king injected..wont start cold without using the throttle..wont stay running cold without using the throttle..runs rough midrange..runs very rich..new plugs..running out of ideas..please help
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- Thread starter David Maloof
- Start date
D
dbmg
Guest
Is check engine light on and any codes? Did you use O.E. plugs?
Might help:
Might help:
Last edited by a moderator:
David Maloof
Member
I used autolite plugs.. bike shop told me to use those..engine light comes on when its under a load but gows off onoffthe load is gone..no codes
D
dbmg
Guest
I would try O.E. plugs and perform throttle body set up discussed in video.
David Maloof
Member
Stupid ?..what plugs are OE
craig Lee
Active Member
Hi David: Stupid(?) definitely not and especially on this site. We're all sitting on the same bench and have been there, asked that. 
O.E. or O.E.M. stands for Original Equipment or Original Equipment Manufacturer. The best in remedying your situation and you will get answers soon from the guru's as you've already seen from dbmg.
O.E. or O.E.M. stands for Original Equipment or Original Equipment Manufacturer. The best in remedying your situation and you will get answers soon from the guru's as you've already seen from dbmg.
D
dbmg
Guest
Thank You Craig for pointing that out to David. As said in the past most problems with Harleys are do either poor guidance or ignorance when trying to repair bikes. Always start at the simplest common sense approach and not go down path of its got to be a big problem. Also you will always want to look at the last modification or repair done to bike to be sure it was done correctly. I wonder if video has been view for that in itself may correct OP concern and get him down the road running well.Hi David: Stupid(?) definitely not and especially on this site. We're all sitting on the same bench and have been there, asked that.
I once had a experience where new tires were installed on a customers Street Glide. A couple days later customer returned to shop with a bad rotational squeal in rear. Certified H.D. tech that worked on bike insisted it was a bad rear wheel bearing and was not seeing it any other way. Customer never had complaint till tires installed. Had senior shop foremen look at bike and found that the belt was over tightened. After adjusting belt properly and road tested bike noise gone and I had another satisfied customer.
IAC - Idle Air Control - An electric valve or stepper motor that's threaded, one turn of the valve is called a "step". It's controlled by output signals from the ECM to open and close as needed to allow enough air into the engine for starting and idle operation. It's function is to bypass the throttle blade in the intake and allow enough air to bypass the throttle blade to run the engine.(Throttle closed) The more steps, the greater the amount of air enters the engine through the IAC passages. It's that black unit you can see just inside and over the top of the air cleaner.
From time to time they get gummed up from the oil mist that enters from the engine breathers and need to be cleaned out. If you look inside the throttle body there's a hole in the upper portion and that is what needs to be cleaned out. You'll usually see some black gunk come out when you clean it. The problem it gives you when it needs cleaning is an erratic idle speed and stalling and usually does not set a code unless they fail.
A can of carb cleaner will do the trick here. One thing is to blow the carb cleaner out with some low pressure air or the other sensors in the intake will set codes from the carb cleaner.
If you don't have any low pressure air to blow it out, just let it air dry for a while before turning on the ignition.
+1 on going back to the original plugs for your scoot and make sure the cap on the top of the plug is tight.
Try clean you IAC as well.
From time to time they get gummed up from the oil mist that enters from the engine breathers and need to be cleaned out. If you look inside the throttle body there's a hole in the upper portion and that is what needs to be cleaned out. You'll usually see some black gunk come out when you clean it. The problem it gives you when it needs cleaning is an erratic idle speed and stalling and usually does not set a code unless they fail.
A can of carb cleaner will do the trick here. One thing is to blow the carb cleaner out with some low pressure air or the other sensors in the intake will set codes from the carb cleaner.
If you don't have any low pressure air to blow it out, just let it air dry for a while before turning on the ignition.
+1 on going back to the original plugs for your scoot and make sure the cap on the top of the plug is tight.
Try clean you IAC as well.
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joel
Well-Known Member
Jeff is right on IAC motor . The IAC should go open when bike is shut off, to help eliminate any dieseling by creating an extreme lean condition, this also has in the proper position for start up, as the engine warms the IAC motor begins to close and lowers the idle to a predetermined idle setting stored in the ECM.
Often the shaft and pintle become varnished and will stick. Tapping on it with a screw driver handle can free it up but removing for cleaning often corrects the problem. While you have the inlet air hose off the TBI,
Loak for varnish on the throttle plate, you can use a tooth brush with carb cleaner on it, wipe it with a rag than see if it has hepled.
Often the shaft and pintle become varnished and will stick. Tapping on it with a screw driver handle can free it up but removing for cleaning often corrects the problem. While you have the inlet air hose off the TBI,
Loak for varnish on the throttle plate, you can use a tooth brush with carb cleaner on it, wipe it with a rag than see if it has hepled.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
See the 2 ports @ 12 0cklock Clean the gunk out of them
