Glider-Rider
Member
Has anyone tried both Gerbing heated socks and their heated insoles? If so, which would you recommend? I'm leaning towards the socks, but they are cost quite a bit more. Don't know if they're worth the difference.
Gerbing Heated Socks vs Gerbing Insoles?
- Thread starter Glider-Rider
- Start date
That is a question that I would be interested in the answer to also. It seems to me that despite the higher cost of the socks they might be a better choice in the long run because they envelope the whole foot.
I'm interested too. I just got my heated jacket and gloves for Christmas. Feet/legs are the only thing still getting cold. I'm leaning toward the insoles, but nothing etched in stone yet. Waiting to get my soft lower covers for my highway bars (mine are mustache bars and H-D doesn't make lower covers for those) tailored to fit. That should take care of some of the cold feet/leg probs. Tracy
Porter
Junior Member
I went with the insoles. As previously posted, the socks have wires you can feel when walking or standing. Riding/sitting is fine. I didn't like walking at all.
The insoles have a wire that runs up the inside of your leg, initiating about at the arch. If you have a tight boot and do a lot of walking this could get annoying. My boots are a little loose, so I don't mind it and the padding of the insole is fine to walk on. If you have a flat arch the wire could bother you, I guess. For me the insoles worked well with one pair of regular socks and my leather boots (no insulation in the boot) when it was 20F out for my hour commute. My feet were behind the lowers on my UC, so that blocks some of the wind. If I had to walk all day in these boots, I would just unzip my boot and take the insole out and put the boot back on. Much easier than changing socks, for me. The insole is really nice to use for something like hunting as well, if you buy the batteries. I can walk a good bit (1/2 mile) with them and then turn them on after getting to my tree stand. Much better than the lump that the toe warmers make under your foot and on low, with a good insulated boot the will last all day (turning on when my feet get cold and off for a while when they are warmed up).
The insoles tie into the jacket liner and run of of the jacket "leg" of the controller. I turn the jacket up but leave it unzipped so it is not tight against me. This lets me run the insoles hotter (with a less insulated leather boot) and keeps me from roasting in the jacket. For me, the goal was to cut down on the number of layers I have to put on and take off. I don't have the pant liners, I don't think I need them either with the jacket and the insoles. I keep a pair of shoes at work, so when I get in I just take off my jacket, bibs and boots and I am ready for work. Before I would have multiple layers of socks and boot liners on (as well as base layers to take off, now that is gone as well).
The insoles have a wire that runs up the inside of your leg, initiating about at the arch. If you have a tight boot and do a lot of walking this could get annoying. My boots are a little loose, so I don't mind it and the padding of the insole is fine to walk on. If you have a flat arch the wire could bother you, I guess. For me the insoles worked well with one pair of regular socks and my leather boots (no insulation in the boot) when it was 20F out for my hour commute. My feet were behind the lowers on my UC, so that blocks some of the wind. If I had to walk all day in these boots, I would just unzip my boot and take the insole out and put the boot back on. Much easier than changing socks, for me. The insole is really nice to use for something like hunting as well, if you buy the batteries. I can walk a good bit (1/2 mile) with them and then turn them on after getting to my tree stand. Much better than the lump that the toe warmers make under your foot and on low, with a good insulated boot the will last all day (turning on when my feet get cold and off for a while when they are warmed up).
The insoles tie into the jacket liner and run of of the jacket "leg" of the controller. I turn the jacket up but leave it unzipped so it is not tight against me. This lets me run the insoles hotter (with a less insulated leather boot) and keeps me from roasting in the jacket. For me, the goal was to cut down on the number of layers I have to put on and take off. I don't have the pant liners, I don't think I need them either with the jacket and the insoles. I keep a pair of shoes at work, so when I get in I just take off my jacket, bibs and boots and I am ready for work. Before I would have multiple layers of socks and boot liners on (as well as base layers to take off, now that is gone as well).
Porter
Junior Member
This might sound a little weird, but if you feet sweat it will feel much hotter. The moisture conducts the heat better. Also, I think the density of the heat wires is higher in the insoles, so if the insoles are turning on/off the same rate as the jacket/pants, they will feel hotter. I am assuming you have a jacket and/or pants that the insoles are tied to. If you are just running the insoles alone, you should be able to dial in a comfortable setting.
Here is where you may want to experiment with a thicker sock to insulate your foot from the higher heat (if you have the jacket/pants at a comfortable setting).
Here is where you may want to experiment with a thicker sock to insulate your foot from the higher heat (if you have the jacket/pants at a comfortable setting).
ladydihd
Member
yes I have the pants, jacket liner and gloves. The jacket and gloves are connected into one side of the controller and the pants and insoles are connected to the other side of the controller. If I turn insoles down I am also turning down the pants. I am going to try thicker socks with my over sized boots.
If this snow ever goes away! :wall
If this snow ever goes away! :wall
Porter
Junior Member
Maybe your jacket is different than mine: My gloves connect to the jacket physically, but I am sure they are on a different circuit. Do you have two controlers or an extra Y-splitter?