My girlfriend bought an 08 Sportster. She, the girlfriend, is 5'2" and at age 53 isn't going to grow much. Her problem is reaching the front brake lever. Her short fingers can't quite reach it, to get there the throttle will roll down as she reaches and when she grips the brake and engages it she throttles up, it spooks her and she drops the bike. She successfully completed the riders edge, and is the type of person that shouldn't have any issue riding. Harley has said "get use to it." I'm am trying to find an aftermarket lever that is closer to the bar or any other suggestion. I am not aware of any adjustment to the brake that will help. Does any one have any suggestions? She is currently recovering from a dislocated rib from a drop. She hasn't dropped it except from a stop, usually on take off. Thanks.
Front brake control lever
- Thread starter gskidd
- Start date
If there are no after market product or adjustments , I have an idea.
Not sure of the saftey aspect.. Critisim is welcome.
Cut the lever off , angle it closer to the grip so when the brake lever is fully engaged it does not come in contact with the grip. Weld it up by a competant welder and get it polished.
My only concern is that as the brakes wear, the lever may hit the grip and not allow the brakes to fully engage.
Danger Danger Will Robinson.
Or get one custom made that will move the lever closer to the grip.
Not sure of the saftey aspect.. Critisim is welcome.
Cut the lever off , angle it closer to the grip so when the brake lever is fully engaged it does not come in contact with the grip. Weld it up by a competant welder and get it polished.
My only concern is that as the brakes wear, the lever may hit the grip and not allow the brakes to fully engage.
Danger Danger Will Robinson.
Or get one custom made that will move the lever closer to the grip.
Gunslinger
Member
There are levers for people with small hands. I've seen them in the JP catalog. I'll see if I can find a part number for you.....
ChromePrincess
New Member
I also have an 08 Sportster, and am 5'2", and have the exact same issue with the brake/throttle situation, so I'll be interested in seeing what can be done. First night on my bike I rode the stupid thing over a curb and through a bush because of it.
Check this site out on the net
Pazzo Racing - Sportbike Brake & Clutch Levers
They make adjustable levers for almost any bike.
I did a quick search in google and there is a lot of good stuff about this guy.
Pazzo Racing - Sportbike Brake & Clutch Levers
They make adjustable levers for almost any bike.
I did a quick search in google and there is a lot of good stuff about this guy.
theklanchXL1200N
Active Member
Ok I had the opposite problem on my quad which was that my hands were too big and I was grabbing too much lever and locking up the front brakes....so what I did was move the brake lever down as in rotating the mount so the brake lever was sloping towards the front of the quad. I also put on stubby levers so I can only grab it with two fingers. What if you moved the whole control housing and master cylinder up slightly? Maybe try loosening up the torx fasteners and moving the lever around a little with the Mrs. sitting on her machine to determine which spot is most comfortable for her. Maybe go as far as changing the bars for her. I don't recommend cutting and welding the brake lever, as mentioned as the pads wear the lever is going to contact the grip. I have thicker grips on my sportster and I can almost get the lever to contact the grip if I really squeeze it. I have 5100 miles on mine so there is some brake pad wear there. I just think that is a bad idea all around.
Also remind her that there is a back brake and how many builders of these "new-old-new school" bikes are running back brakes only. My buddy whom I have done tons of free work to his bike just told me that he "just started using his front brake last week, because the rear one is squealing" that bothers me as I spent a good evening fixing his front brake when he decided to take his caliper off to change a brake line without bothering to see if the bleeder was seized or not. Anyway back to the subject, why not coach her to start using the back brake on take off. I do it all the time on hills so I don't have to bother with the front and hold the throttle and the clutch. In fact the only time I use the front brake only is when I am trying to ruin my back tire. Hope she feels better after her last appointment with the pavement.
I just thought of another solution as I was thinking of ending this post....... Why not take the master cylinder off of the bars and take it to a machine shop and have them take like .030-.050" from the area where the master cylinder mounts and have them make a corresponding shim to go into the other half of the strap. That would move the lever back towards the grip. I don't know if this will work or if it can be done, but it was an idea. Now I have to go outside as there is too much smoke coming from my ears and my wife is complaining of the smell of burning brain.............
Also remind her that there is a back brake and how many builders of these "new-old-new school" bikes are running back brakes only. My buddy whom I have done tons of free work to his bike just told me that he "just started using his front brake last week, because the rear one is squealing" that bothers me as I spent a good evening fixing his front brake when he decided to take his caliper off to change a brake line without bothering to see if the bleeder was seized or not. Anyway back to the subject, why not coach her to start using the back brake on take off. I do it all the time on hills so I don't have to bother with the front and hold the throttle and the clutch. In fact the only time I use the front brake only is when I am trying to ruin my back tire. Hope she feels better after her last appointment with the pavement.
I just thought of another solution as I was thinking of ending this post....... Why not take the master cylinder off of the bars and take it to a machine shop and have them take like .030-.050" from the area where the master cylinder mounts and have them make a corresponding shim to go into the other half of the strap. That would move the lever back towards the grip. I don't know if this will work or if it can be done, but it was an idea. Now I have to go outside as there is too much smoke coming from my ears and my wife is complaining of the smell of burning brain.............
Email the site ,it can't hurt.
USMCCWO5
Junior Member
I guess they aren't ready for HD levers yet. Here is their response to my email.
Not at this time.
the "to do" list is long and so many others to do first.
Regards
Markus
sales@pazzoracing.com
http://www.pazzoracing.com
Mon. to Fri. 9 am to 4 pm PST
Ph: 604-539-1500
scottaudio
Member
Re: Adjustable Control Levers
Just reading in the new issue (September) of Road Bike Mag about ASV levers that are adjustable reach, with approximately 3" of travel to play with. Web site is:
ASV Inventions
C5 CNC Machines Levers, $125 ea, tel 877-278-7000. They are pretty sexy for adjustable travel levers, with a "power bend" in them....
Just reading in the new issue (September) of Road Bike Mag about ASV levers that are adjustable reach, with approximately 3" of travel to play with. Web site is:
ASV Inventions
C5 CNC Machines Levers, $125 ea, tel 877-278-7000. They are pretty sexy for adjustable travel levers, with a "power bend" in them....