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engine quits while riding

cossak

Member
I need some experienced thoughts on this.

I am riding a 2007 FatBoy: 103, 204 cam, SERT, SE airfilter, D&D 2into 1 exhaust. I have 8800 miles and it has run without a hicup until 2 weeks ago.
I don't have a tac on bike so rpm are just my "ear" estimates.

Sunday June 20th
I had ridden up and around Lake Livingston, about 110 miles on a hot day, air temp 100 +- , parked the bike in the shade for about 3 hours, and had lunch, started up, warm engine for about 2-4 minutes, rode 4 miles to a gas station and filled with 96 octane; we rode about 12 miles I had just shifted from 3rd gear to 4th speed about 65 mph rmp 3800-4000, was winding up in 4th gear at 70-75 mph rpm about 3600-3800 when the engine quit for maybe 1 second then ran for 1-2 seconds quit for a second then was running; sound and feel was OK, no vibration, or weird sound/feel, check engine light was on. I quickly thought over possibilities as I slowed to 55 since all seemed well except the engine light and I was a long way from home I decided to keep riding, thinking maybe the engine was overheated from high rpm/torque I shifted up to 5th gear and rode at 55-65 at about 2500 rpm, when I got to I 45 I went up to 70 to match traffic but shifted up to 6th gear to keep rpm low as this seemed to be working without any more engine interruptions. I rode 60 some miles this way and arrived home without any more problems.
I read out the DTC codes and looked them up, cleared them and rode about 25 miles to test bike but no problems.
the DTC codes,
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EF
I replaced the system relay, charged the battery, polished all the terminals and connectors, put dielectric on the fuses and terminals then parked for 2 weeks because of working 12 hrs/day 7 days/week.

Friday July 2nd
I needed a new inspection sticker so warmed bike for 10 min, rode to sicker shop, in about 20 min period, I demonstrated hi/low beams, turn signals, brake light, brake to stop from 20 mph etc. and got new sticker. Rode out from shop and headed home, I accelerated to about 30-35 in second gear 3000 rpm, shifted to 3rd and powered up, then just as I started to feel torque pull at 40-45 mph 2800 rpm the engine quit for 2-3 seconds ran for 1 second then quit for 3-5 seconds, I had pulled in the clutch and was moving to right lane with bike rolling with a dead engine, I let out clutch still in 3rd gear and after two seconds of lugging the engine caught and hummed on fine. I rode home without any more problem, but I did not use any high rpm or torque.

The DTC codes were the same as before with the addition of the P1353 this time which is probably from my letting out the clutch to restart engine.

What I think it is significant that in both incidents:
1) the engine quit twice in quick succession,
2) that I was accelerating in the 3500+ rpm range then up shifting just prior to the failure
3) the first time it was hot weather but the second time it was cool so temp is probably not issue.
4) I replaced the System Relay and had only ridden about 6 miles before the second failure so I would look elsewhere for the problem.
5) I would like to hope it was bad gasoline from the Exxon Station In Lake Livingston that fouled an injector but really don’t have a clue.


the DTC codes,
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EF
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI


When I cleared codes, I went out and rode for 12 miles, trying to replicate the issue; accelerate hard, shift.... but bike is singing like a champ. I want to do some more long weekend rides on back roads but I am afraid the bike will quit for more than a few seconds and I will be looking at a long walk and push. In my younger years I pushed a 200# Husky 6 miles out of the back country on an interrupted enduro race, and I sure don't want to push 800# of HD even on a paved road now.


Even if it is something for dealer I would like to know where to start so I don't have him cheerfully replacing every part he has in stock.
 
I think you should put the 800# fat boy on a diet for openers :D

My guess would be some bad fuel also. You may end up removing and cleaning/draining the tank and put fresh gas in it to eliminate the problem before you tear into it.
 
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I'm not sure on the 07 does it have vented gas caps? If I read your post right it only cuts out when your accelerating. Gliders probably right as you always look at the last thing you did before the problem started and that would be adding gas.
 
Well, turnes out it was a wire in the main wireing harness that connects the system relay to EFI that was shorting out. Glad I found it early, one of those things that would only get worse and some raining afternoon on an empty road....
 
sounds like bad fuel,,O2 sensors measure O2 content only.so if you get a miss fire from bad gas ,,,well it's measuring oxy.or low voltage,,depending on the type of O2 sensor,,also if you let raw fuel enter into the cats they will sinter..
 
sounds like bad fuel,,O2 sensors measure O2 content only.so if you get a miss fire from bad gas ,,,well it's measuring oxy.or low voltage,,depending on the type of O2 sensor,,also if you let raw fuel enter into the cats they will sinter..

You may want to read the post and #4 reply right above yours.:s
 
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