EFI problem?

[01 rk]

Hi I am new to the forum, from southeastern Pa. I have been riding since 1964 H-Ds since '68.
I have an '06 flhtc with a screamin eagle air cleaner, v&h true duels, stock mufflers with the baffles drilled out and a dynojet pcIII factory programed for my setup. I recently experienced a problem climbing the rockies and cascades could only do 35-40mph ran out of throttle, downshifting did not help rpms went up no speed increase. Also the mpg is poor 30=33mph.
What can be done to correct the problem.
I did not experience this with my road king with the same setup it ran great.
Thanks

 

[TQuentin1]

Hi I am new to the forum, from southeastern Pa. I have been riding since 1964 H-Ds since '68.
I have an '06 flhtc with a screamin eagle air cleaner, v&h true duels, stock mufflers with the baffles drilled out and a dynojet pcIII factory programed for my setup. I recently experienced a problem climbing the rockies and cascades could only do 35-40mph ran out of throttle, downshifting did not help rpms went up no speed increase. Also the mpg is poor 30=33mph.
What can be done to correct the problem.
I did not experience this with my road king with the same setup it ran great.
Thanks

First, check for codes:

04-07 HD DTC Codes and Activation - Harley Davidson Community

Let us know about this.

TQ

 

[01 rk]

thanks for the info. i followed the instructions to look for dtc's "none" appeared in the window. is there anything else to look for? the motorcycle run great at lower elevation.
could the power commander be the problem?

 

[TQuentin1]

thanks for the info. i followed the instructions to look for dtc's "none" appeared in the window. is there anything else to look for? the motorcycle run great at lower elevation.
could the power commander be the problem?

So back at home, or at least closer to "home" altitude you are NOT having the problems? If so, then yes, I would tend to believe it is the map on the PC that needs to be optimized for the altitude change. If you are going to be doing that mountain trek regularly, you might want to have a "mountain map" that is about half way between pure "mountain" and pure "home" elevations. That way you can still get by on the trip without such a strain. Then back at home, switch back to that map.

Another option, it to replace the PC with a TFI that you can tweak with a little screw driver or knife blade to add or reduce a bit of fuel when you need to adjust it in route and then return to "base" settings when you are home. Cool thing about the TFI - user settable at anytime, by anybody with no computer interface required.

All that said, I would still also check some basics: air filter cleaned, open up the tank and replace the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator - clean out any water in the bottom of the tank. Change spark plugs - I use Champions gapped at .40".

TQ

 

[01 rk]

The fuel filter was changed just before the trip, new k&n filter and new plugs gaped @
.40. The only thing not done was the fuel pressure regulator. The poor mpg is a problem
everywhere, hi or low altitude.

 

[TQuentin1]

The fuel filter was changed just before the trip, new k&n filter and new plugs gaped @
.40. The only thing not done was the fuel pressure regulator. The poor mpg is a problem
everywhere, hi or low altitude.

Good that all that was done. The pressure regulator was probably overkill anyway, but if I am in the tank to change out anything, I just do it while there. I would not go back in just for that unless there were other reasons.

Try calling Dynajet and discuss the situation with there technical bunch. They might suggest an alternative map download that may be a bit more optimized for your setup, riding style and normal "home" riding area. You can also see what they suggest for the "mountain" trip scenario.

TQ

 

[relxn88]

Another option, it to replace the PC with a TFI that you can tweak with a little screw driver or knife blade to add or reduce a bit of fuel when you need to adjust it in route and then return to "base" settings when you are home. Cool thing about the TFI - user settable at anytime, by anybody with no computer interface required.

The PC has three buttons (low-middle-high) for on the run adjustments. "No need" for a screwdriver. And, you can return the PC back to the exact originial settings. Unlike the TFI "pot" adjustments with a screwdriver.

01RK - A rule of thumb is 5000' of elevation will lower power by 15-20%. And the higher you go, the worse it is. The lower atmospheric pressure is going to rob you of a lot of power. You have to use a lot more throttle to maintain the same speed, so your gas mileage will go down. At least, that's the way I understand it. My 2cent opinion would be that the lower pressure means less air and your engine was running richer. I suppose you could adjust the PC a couple a clicks, to temporarily lean the engine to help out the rich condition at the higher altitudes. Just a thought.

 

[01 rk]

Thanks for the insight and info from all.
I did know about the three buttons on the pc and did adjust down during the trip. The mpg is poor no matter what elevation, 30-33.
I will be calling dynojet today to see if they can give me some help.
The thing that bothers me most about this is my 01 RK has the same set up and runs great, never ran out of throttle at any elevation and we made six trips west with it.

 

[Wayne R]

My wife has an 06 Ultra also and early on noticed some problems seems there was a recall on the injectors, the dealer put a new larger injector nozzles on the bike just a thought.

 

[Safehaven]

So back at home, or at least closer to "home" altitude you are NOT having the problems? If so, then yes, I would tend to believe it is the map on the PC that needs to be optimized for the altitude change. If you are going to be doing that mountain trek regularly, you might want to have a "mountain map" that is about half way between pure "mountain" and pure "home" elevations. That way you can still get by on the trip without such a strain. Then back at home, switch back to that map.

Another option, it to replace the PC with a TFI that you can tweak with a little screw driver or knife blade to add or reduce a bit of fuel when you need to adjust it in route and then return to "base" settings when you are home. Cool thing about the TFI - user settable at anytime, by anybody with no computer interface required.

All that said, I would still also check some basics: air filter cleaned, open up the tank and replace the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator - clean out any water in the bottom of the tank. Change spark plugs - I use Champions gapped at .40".

TQ

I'm no EFI wizz here but there should be a feedback loop that measures the altitude increase = oxigen decrease inside the TFI's, or is there not? I thought that the O2 sensors in the newer bikes were doing this.. This is why I still don't understand why people unplug them..