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E-Z install pushrods

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01 rk

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Installing these on the Rk, directions say adjust to zero clearance then turn the adjustment counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns, seems like they will be to tight. Is this correct? I thought with the lifter at it's lowest point the rod should be able to rotate.
Thanks for any help.
 
follow the instructions carefully... it will be tight when you do the adjustment. Then have a beer(critical step) then check, they should spin, as they did when you started at zero clearance. Dont forget to set at TDC on compression stroke. ( confirm by hold thumb over plug hole , you will feel compression build up). 2 1/2 turns = 15 flats on adjuster(scribe mark to keep count.) also hold threaded adjuster when you tighten jamb nut, then thouroughly retighten jamb nut
 
I went 2 1/2 turns on mine, and after 2 weeks and a little top end noise, went another 1/2 turn. All seems fine now, bike runs great. If you have the newer pushrods (the tapered ones), there's already a little circle inscribed on the pushrod near the adjuster to use as a reference point for how many turns you're at. And to save yourself a little trouble later, blow some compressed air thru the rods before installation, just in case anything might be stuck in there from manufacturing or packaging that might restrict the oil flow. It's also easier to hold the adjuster still and turn the pushrod, keeping an eye on that little circle mark and remember how many turns you went. Let the lifters bleed down for 10-15 minutes, as mentioned above. Good luck.
 
01 rk said:
Installing these on the Rk, directions say adjust to zero clearance then turn the adjustment counter clockwise 2 1/2 turns, seems like they will be to tight. Is this correct? I thought with the lifter at it's lowest point the rod should be able to rotate.
Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

Key questions:

  1. Standard lifters? ("B" or "C")
  2. TPI of your pushrods?
If #1 is yes, then the lifter piston stroke is 0.250", and you want to adjust the pushrod to half of that (0.125"). So knowing the answer to #2, you multiply that number by 0.125 to get the number of turns on the PRs.

24 tpi: 0.125 x 24 = 3 turns
28 tpi: 0.125 x 28 = 3 1/2 turns
32 tpi: 0.125 x 32 = 4 turns

My PRs are 24 tpi and I actually like to adjust the rods out slightly more than half the lifter piston stroke, like a flat or two. That puts me between 0.132" and 0.139" out on the rods.

Note - for the 2 1/2 turns to be half the lifter piston stroke, the PR adjuster would have to be 20 tpi. Don't know anyone that makes that.

TQ
 
Last edited:
TQ is correct, if you go 2 1/2 you will go back next week and redo them another 1/2 turn.
Ken
 
Thanks for the info and help, have had a rough time changing out the bearings and tensioners, hope the push rods go better.
The tensioners were just on the unacceptable side after 88k, not worn that bad.
 
01 rk said:
Thanks for the info and help, have had a rough time changing out the bearings and tensioners, hope the push rods go better.
The tensioners were just on the unacceptable side after 88k, not worn that bad.
Click to expand...

Were you doing the roller chain conversion, or just changing out the spring tensioners with new ones? And the bearings you are talking about are the inner camshaft support needle bearings? See here:

TQ's Engine Build

Harley Davidson Community

TQ
 
Changed the inner bearings w/torringtons and put new tensioners on. I had looked at pics, TQ;s engine build, and followed the manual, read all the instructions and so on. I had a need help post yesterday but got no response. However I got it all back together and it started and ran fine. Thanks for the help.
 
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