free website stats program drill 'n tap transmission drain | Harley Davidson Forums

drill 'n tap transmission drain

Billbo

Junior Member
Alright guys -- here is the question for all of you.
I an in need of a drain plug repair for my 01 Softtail. The threads in the case are stripped.

I dont ride THAT much - maybe 2-5K a year only.
IF I can get the transmission plug to not leak - I will NEVER change out the synthetic oil in the transmission. or run it about 10-20K miles anyway.

Now, on the softtail, you can NOT see up under the bike and between the shocks to drill n tap anything - unless I raise the bike up about 6 feet off the floor - so I can stand under it - I can not see to make sure the drill is square.

QUESTION - Can I just drain the gas and lay the bike over on its left side and get down on the floor and make this repair?

2nd QUESTION - can I simply replace the bottom transmission plate which would have new drain plug threads?

(just a comment on the subject - why do we use aluminum case threads and steel treaded plugs? sounds backwards to me - the plug is only $2 to replace.) added edit here (also, anyone ever heard of using some sort of expanding rubber plug for a drain in aluminum - such as a boat plug that slides in and then tightens? seems to me that just might be a nice fix also)

Bill
 
Last edited:
There are several threads on the subject. Here's one I started Stripped Drain Plug - Harley Davidson Community

I would think run the gas down low. Shut off valves, Drain oil so none sneaks past rings, Remove battery.

I see no reason you could not get it pretty far over. Not sure I would put it completely on its side however.

I would be concerned about the chips getting up inside that way.

Good luck
 
There are several threads on the subject. Here's one I started Stripped Drain Plug - Harley Davidson Community

I would think run the gas down low. Shut off valves, Drain oil so none sneaks past rings, Remove battery.

I see no reason you could not get it pretty far over. Not sure I would put it completely on its side however.

I would be concerned about the chips getting up inside that way.

Good luck
thanks for the quick reply Harvey. I just get so frustrated with things like this -- $2 steel drain plug going into a $1000 aluminum case!!! why couldnt that be just opposite? a $2 alum plug screwing into a steel insert? Strip the 2 dollar plug (throw it away and buy a new one) instead of the case. Plus the trans drain plug location on softtails is horrible.

Bill
 
You might want to try this first, I have sealed streight thread screws againsed 120 psi air with this stuff.

Loctite® 545™ Thread Sealant
Hydraulic & Pneumatic Fine Threads ONLINE NEAR TDS MSDS
Will not clog 20 micron filters
Typical Applications: Hydraulic sytems
Max Pressure Resistance: 10000 psi
Temperature Resistance: 300°F
 
You might want to try this first, I have sealed streight thread screws againsed 120 psi air with this stuff.

Loctite® 545™ Thread Sealant
Hydraulic & Pneumatic Fine Threads ONLINE NEAR TDS MSDS
Will not clog 20 micron filters
Typical Applications: Hydraulic sytems
Max Pressure Resistance: 10000 psi
Temperature Resistance: 300°F
OK - can the plug be removed afterwards?

Bill
 
OK - can the plug be removed afterwards?

Bill

You can actually remove all loctited threads, If the tool has a sound attachment. Phillips screw driver, not so good. I think if threads are already stripped there will not be much torque to overcome.
 
You might want to try this first, I have sealed streight thread screws againsed 120 psi air with this stuff.

Loctite® 545™ Thread Sealant
Hydraulic & Pneumatic Fine Threads ONLINE NEAR TDS MSDS
Will not clog 20 micron filters
Typical Applications: Hydraulic sytems
Max Pressure Resistance: 10000 psi
Temperature Resistance: 300°F

You can also try "Wicking Grade" Loctite (290)...This can be used with the plug in place. It's green, watery and will wick around the threads.
A slight lean of the bike and it will suck right in. 100% removable.
If you're anywhere near me (Detroit suburbs) IM me and we'll fix it in my shop.
 
Now there's an offer. I looked for your location. If you are near the finger lakes you can do it at my place I have all the stuff and steel inserts.
 
You can also try "Wicking Grade" Loctite (290)...This can be used with the plug in place. It's green, watery and will wick around the threads.
A slight lean of the bike and it will suck right in. 100% removable.
If you're anywhere near me (Detroit suburbs) IM me and we'll fix it in my shop.

Now there's an offer. I looked for your location. If you are near the finger lakes you can do it at my place I have all the stuff and steel inserts.

Now you know what,,, there are two fine fellows there. Gosh, I appreciate your offers more than you will know -- but no, I am down here in Louisiana way to far to take you up on the offers. But thanks so much anyway!!!!

I think I will "try" to lay it over and drill n tap myself using the 1/2" plug I bought new from HD. IF that does not work out too well, I called a HD shop nearby and they will install the timesert for about $100-200 dollars - depending on whether or not they have to remove shocks. Doesn't sound bad at all to me.

Bill
 
Now you know what,,, there are two fine fellows there. Gosh, I appreciate your offers more than you will know -- but no, I am down here in Louisiana way to far to take you up on the offers. But thanks so much anyway!!!!

I think I will "try" to lay it over and drill n tap myself using the 1/2" plug I bought new from HD. IF that does not work out too well, I called a HD shop nearby and they will install the timesert for about $100-200 dollars - depending on whether or not they have to remove shocks. Doesn't sound bad at all to me.

Bill

When you drill and tap use a cutting wax. Comes in a stick, not very expensive. Use alot on both the drill and tap. It will lubricate and will catch and hold a lot of the chips, especially when you tap. Make sure you don't break the chip when you tap.
 
Back
Top