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Does this sound normal?

ThunderRogue

Active Member
Trying to find out something about clutch adjustment. I've done this for years but just recently noticed this when adjusting the clutch on my '04 Twin Cam with a Energy One Extra Plate kit. A little history, I've always had to only back out the adjuster screw about 1/8 turn and I'm told this is normal for this setup.
So here's what I noticed, I always loosen the cable all the way, then back off the lock nut on the clutch adjuster. I then back out the adjuster screw a few turns to clear the threads and then turn it in until contact. And then I go another half turn just to make sure the pressure plate lifts and everything is touching. (Squeezes the fluid out) Then I back it out again and go in to make contact and then back out 1/8 turn. Pretty much by the book for decades right? Well I noticed if the screw makes contact say at the 2 o'clock position and I back it out and go in again it's now further! It'll go to the 3 o'clock position and if I do it again the 4 o'clock position and so on. Never paid attention to it before but it just doesn't seem right to me! What can be moving? Any thoughts?
 
Are you forgetting to lock the adjuster screw, where you hold it in position with a screw driver and turn the lock nut until it locks. I know this sounds trite but it's all that comes to mind.
 
I don't think you're following me gator508, this is before I lock the adjuster locknut down. Also my bike uses an allen wrench to turn the adjuster, not a screwdriver. Please read my 1st post again.
 
I don't think you're following me gator508, this is before I lock the adjuster locknut down. Also my bike uses an allen wrench to turn the adjuster, not a screwdriver. Please read my 1st post again.

OK my bad, I thought you were locking it down. You mention of an Energy One Extra Plate Kit, could that have something to do with the adjuster screw movement. As you say you have done this for years, and it's quite a straight forward procedure. Did it do the same thing before the kit was added.
 
Well, I never noticed it before. I I always just turned the screw in to make contact and then backed it out the appropriate amount. I never went in and out several times before. I just find it strange the contact point is further in each time I back the screw out and go back in. Can't understand it.
 
I know this doesn't address your concern but if you follow these steps and everything feels and works good I wouldn't let it bother me.



Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .
 
I know this doesn't address your concern but if you follow these steps and everything feels and works good I wouldn't let it bother me.



Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

Jeff, thanks for the response. I've tried that method before. The only difference is with the Energy One clutch I have in there I have to be 1/8th turn out.
I'm not having any major problems at this time, other than stiction. I just drained the Formula Plus out and replaced it with B&M Trick Shift per Kent at Energy One's advice. Seems to shift better but I believe it needs more than a test ride to thoroughly work into the discs.
Next time you do a clutch adjustment, play with going in and out and see if yours does the same as mine.
 
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