My right side directionals are not functioning. I am using the doss minis front and rear with a badlands load equalizer. They worked fine for years and recently stopped working on the right side. I performed the tests per the service manual (rather vaguely worded because it says to remove the self canceling module and test the module at the pins? But to actually do the test you are testing the pin holes on the wiring harness plug. So how does this tell me if the module is bad. Did I not interpret this correctly. Like I indicated it is poorly worded. As far as the handlebar swith and directionals on right and left side they all tested with voltage and when jumping the pins at the wire harness plug to light up the front and rear at the same time that all worked. So does this tell me the self cancel module is bad? How is the module actually tested so I know it is the problem?
Directionals on right side won't function at all
- Thread starter wiley1969
- Start date
Welcome Wiley1969 to HDTimeline forum and your 1st post. My first thought would be Inspection, check by swapping all the bulbs from one side to the other...while inspecting the bulbs and bases for "white fur" or signs of overheating (should be bright brass contacts), check the sockets and wiring behind.
Clean w/contact cleaner from electronics store buff them with pencil eraser or contact file, coat with dielectric grease; while in there use you DMM (get from Harbor Freight with coupon for $1.99 on sale normally $10) and make sure the insulated center contact(s) are not shorted to the shell using ohmmeter/continuity check. Don't forget the wiring and taillight wiring running under the fender area, tire can sometimes snag something up there. Test signals to see if problem switched sides or is fixed.
A little background would be helpful, when did was the last service done, and did anything coincide with the "suddenly stopped working symptom"? There will be other who will help shortly, but I would start with inspection for corrosion, pinched insulation or crushed/bent connector pin damage before an honest to gosh component failure.
Clean w/contact cleaner from electronics store buff them with pencil eraser or contact file, coat with dielectric grease; while in there use you DMM (get from Harbor Freight with coupon for $1.99 on sale normally $10) and make sure the insulated center contact(s) are not shorted to the shell using ohmmeter/continuity check. Don't forget the wiring and taillight wiring running under the fender area, tire can sometimes snag something up there. Test signals to see if problem switched sides or is fixed.
A little background would be helpful, when did was the last service done, and did anything coincide with the "suddenly stopped working symptom"? There will be other who will help shortly, but I would start with inspection for corrosion, pinched insulation or crushed/bent connector pin damage before an honest to gosh component failure.
Thanks for the welcome NHD74F.
I have voltage and they also lit passing the tests per the service manual. Also checked the connections and bulbs. My concern is the self cancelling module itself. Based on the SM test for the module (which I interpret as testing at the plug) so juice is at the plug, also when using jumpers all the directionals will light up so I have continuity and the bulbs are functioning on the right side. This leads me to believe it is the module (or the LE) but I am not certain. Don't want to spend $150 for a module if it isn't the culprit. Even a new load equalizer with built in cancel module is $100. My first thing to do would be just replacing the basic load equalizer (see below). I have heard the SC module failure is somewhat common (at least this is what Badlands told me) so I figured I would put this out there and get some responses.
They have stopped working once or twice in the past but adjusting the connection at the load equalizer fixed it. I take care of service unless something major. Bike has not been riden much over the last year so I was going over it and tuning it (plugs, wires, S&S tuning and replacement parts, etc...).
I should also say this is the second load equalizer. Went through this previously with the first. Around 7-10 years ago redoing the connections at the load equalizer didn't cure it so I replaced it with another and problem solved.
Just trying to cover all the bases and check the module further if possible.