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Complete oil change

BOWHIKER

Junior Member
I have a stupid question . I live in iowa and right now we have 18" of snow on the ground so i won't be riding anytime soon . When spring arrives i'm going to do the complete oil change as discribed in one of the forums . My dumb question is would it be ok to practice disconnecting the return oil line at least one time before i actually change the oil ? I have the little plastic line tool from lisle and thought i might try disconnecting and reconnecting just to make sure i knew what i was doing . I know i have to push it back in until it clicks and all that but since this would be my first attemt i'm a little nervous .
 
As you have accepted the fact that you won't be riding anytime soon, now would be a better time to do that oil change rather than waiting. Better for the engine. Then let her sit till spring and you are ready to go. Also if you have trouble with the oil line, you will have plenty of time to figure it out with help from people here.:D
 
As you have accepted the fact that you won't be riding anytime soon, now would be a better time to do that oil change rather than waiting. Better for the engine. Then let her sit till spring and you are ready to go. Also if you have trouble with the oil line, you will have plenty of time to figure it out with help from people here.:D


Well said, and spot on!

As Classic said, you do not want to leave the engine sitting around through the temperature and humidity fluctuations through the Winter. The ignition by-products will combine with condensing water to form acids. Better to change out the oil and put fresh stuff in there with no ignition by-products.

TQ
 
Just one question here, I do agree that this is a better time to do the oil change, but what about the riding 10 miles or so to get things up to operating temerature...? Just wondering.
 
Thanks for the info, I was wondering if that would work. I'm not going to tell hubby, he let me ride his electra-glide last time. :D
 
Always a good idea to change the oil and lube before hibernation...and after, there is the "turn up" procedure. Just take it easy, for at least a 20-30 minute ride when turnup procedure is done to get the circulating fluid mixed and running gear worked up to normal temperature. Post fluid change is actually not needed, especially if you ride the bike "normally"...

Joy has the right idea, just ask if you can ride...Coline said she was interested in learning to ride my Sporty, "just in case she had to move it..." --you gals got us dialed in...she already knows how to change oil & filter...:swoon
 
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Richard,

I definitely feel the engine oil should be changed BEFORE hibernation. That way there is less to combine with the condensing water to form acids.

TQ
 
Not meaning to step in, but there is a wakeup call procedure in the self help section, and if you changed the fluids, ran a bit of SeaFoam etc...after the few months or so of down time, all fluids should still be fresh and clean, so no need for the full change. Just the normal routine scheduled change you do. JMO.
 
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I sould clarfy one thing . The oil was changed before i put her away but not with synthetic . I'm going to change to synthetic this spring that's why i'm doing the complete oil change . That's why i thought it might be a good idea to practice removing the return oil line now and see how i get along removing and reinstalling it .
 
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