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Coil issue

I have a 1996 1200 sportster, that I am putting back together since the person before me had taken it apart . The issue is that I am not getting no spark through the coil. I have a new coil, dual fire coil,I have the pink wire running to the right side and the black and white going to the left from the ignition module. I have 12V on both sides. I also have the same wires from the ignition timing going to the same spot on the coil. For the ground I'm guessing that it grounds being mounted to the frame or the spark plugs ground it out. I have used a spark tester tool no luck. Any advice would help!
 
For the ground I'm guessing that it grounds being mounted to the frame or the spark plugs ground it out.

The black/white wire is the 12 volt battery feed from the run/kill switch. The pink is the ground shot coming from the ignition module. The coil has no frame ground.

To test,,,, Disconnect the 3 wire trigger module (under nose cone) from the wiring harness. Set up a spark gap on one of your plugs so you can see the gap or test spark when it fires. Turn on the ignition, and place the run/kill switch in the RUN position. Using a jumper wire, short the Black/white and Green/white wires at harness side of nose cone pick up. Each time you short and release that jumper, you should see a spark jump the gap each time. The spark fires when you release or disconnect the jumper.

Do you see a spark.
 
Nose cone you are referring to the Internal ignition timing correct? There is no green/white wire coming from there. The only wires I have are black/white, pink, brown, blue and purple/white. Would it be the brown one and when doing this test what wires need to be hooked up?
 
Disconnect the 3 wire cam position sensor (under nose cone) from the wiring harness. Set up a spark gap on one of your plugs so you can see the gap or test spark when it fires. Turn on the ignition, and place the run/kill switch in the RUN position. Using a jumper wire, your going to short the Black/white and Green/white wires at harness side of cam position sensor quick disconnect. Each time you short and release that jumper, you should see 1 spark jump the gap each time. The spark fires when you release or disconnect the jumper wire,,not when you connect it.
 
ok I am getting spark when I jump across the two wires, and the issue i am running into is that it has the stock ignition module and a twin tec internal ignition 1005 is on here. I tired hooking up the twin tec solo not getting anything from it. Have the black/white to left side and pink to right side of coil plus the bat 12v from start/ kill switch to the coil.
 
the issue i am running into is that it has the stock ignition module and a twin tec internal ignition 1005 is on here.

I tired hooking up the twin tec solo not getting anything from it.

The Twin Tec 1005 doesn't work in conjunction with the stock HD ignition module. It takes the place of the HD ignition module. So it's either-or, not both.

You didn't say which module was hooked up when you got a spark. If it was the factory HD, I would use that module for now in order to get the bike up & running quickly. The Twin Tec needs to be checked to see if it is configured properly (voes,, tach,,spark advance curve,,single/dual fire,,temp restrictions., etc) and can get involved. Be aware that the advance curves come in strong and fast on Twin Tech units.

Go to Twin Tech home page & download the installation manual if you want to go that route.
 
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