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Clutch adjustment on 1988 FLHS Electra Glide Sport

Lobo1

Junior Member
I got a couple questions on adjusting the clutch on my 1988 FLHS. The H D service manual says to loosen the cable adjuster, loosen the locknut for the Allen screw that puts pressure on the clutch push rods. I get all that, but it says to put a straight edge across the spring and measure the gap between the spring and clutch hub. Should be 0.00” to 0.010” concave or convex. Mine is totally flat. I rotated the adjuster plate to the “C” hole pattern to put more pressure on the spring and it is still flat. Thinking I am not looking at it just right or maybe I am missing something.
The reason I was checking it is that the clutch lever has 1/16” free play at the ferrul but the clutch doesn’t catch until the lever is let out about 3/4 of the way. I am going to pull the discs and plates out to measure them with a vernier caliper to check for excessive wear unless someone here can give me a little jog in what I may be doing wrong. The clutch doesn’t slip at all, not even fully loaded and pulling a hill. I want to get it to engage when the clutch lever is about 1/4 way from fully pulled in.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Try this method and you should be good to go.


Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .
 
Well I just finished up adjusting the clutch as Jeff explained and it is fine now. When letting the lever out, the clutch engages after about 1/2” travel. Much better than it was which was about 3/8” from the lever being fully released. I did rotate the adjuster plate back to the “B” bolt hole pattern which is the “middle pressure” setting on the clutch spring. Took it for about a 25 mile test spin and it feels fine.

Thank you Jeff
 
Hello. Do any of you know what the service manual says the book time for a clutch adjustment is on a late model big twin Harley?
 
Welcome from So. Texas. What exactly do you mean by "book time for a clutch adjustment"? What year is your HD? The procedure in post #v 2 by Jeff pretty much covers all the models. The adjustment is checked every 5K miles, if that is your time ??.
tourbox
 
Thank you for responding. A better question; how much time does a shop charge out to do a clutch adjustment? '07 Ultra.
 
The Harley shop here in Mobile will charge 1/2 hour labor minimum @ $ 90 per hour, I think that is pretty much the going rate for HD dealerships. Independent shop may charge less.
 
You might consider doing the adjustment yourself. Not hard, Jeff's writeup sums the procedure up quite well.

Will take you about a half hour the first time, getting a feel for the components, and 10 minutes max from then on.
 
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