Clutch adjustment confusion

[ausibatla]

Today I bought an Easyboy Lite Clutch Kit to fit when I dismantle the the cable side to check out the plates and ball bearings. The bloke I bought the kit from had just finished converting a bike to a hydraulic clutch for one of his customers. He asked me how I was adjusting my clutch and I told him. I screw it in until it just touches then back off half a turn then adjust the cable. He said that is wrong. What I should be doing is screwing it in until you just see the plates start to move then back it off half to three quarters of a turn then adjust your cable.
Have I misinterperated the info on the site? Does screw in until just touching mean screw in until the plates start to move.
When you think about it, doing it the way he describes means the actuator arm doesn't have to move as far and I think that has been my problem with the clicking sound whenever I pull the clutch in. The actuator arm is turning so far it is moving the plates past the ball bearings.
Appreciate your comments on the matter.
Cheers.
:cheers
:AUSTRALIA

 

[tourbox]

In reading clutch adj. for a '88 Springer, I would say Not to screw it in so tight that the plates begin to separate. The book says to Loosen the cable for total slack, then loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw. Make sure your locking nut is backed off quite a bit. Make sure your front tire is pointed forward, not turned left or right. That can change the pull on the cable somewhat. Then back out the adj. screw in the center of the clutch hub, Now screw it in until you feel it touch the rod running thru the tranny to your clutch cable side of the tranny. You should feel the tension as you touch the rod. At that point turn the adj. screw counter clockwise 3/4 turn out. Lock the lock nut down while holding the adj. screw in place. Now go back and adj. your cable for 1/8-3/16 free play, where the cable ferrule enters the perch. Pull your clutch 4-5 times then recheck your free play. If needed readjust the cable for the proper free play.
I have never adjusted a clutch the way your friend stated.
I think in a previous post you said you were going to disassemble your clutch. If you do look at the 4 post that the 4 bolts holding the pressure plate and pressure spring on. Once they are removed you can see the post in the inner clutch hub. They have been known to break off from over torquing. The adj. method stated here on the forum should also work.
Keep us posted.
tourbox

 

[Hoople]

Today I bought an Easyboy Lite Clutch Kit to fit when I dismantle the the cable side to check out the plates and ball bearings.
Appreciate your comments on the matter.

The Easy Boy increases the mechanical advantage through leverage but realize (with everything else being equal) your clutch pack separation will decrease when you pull in the clutch lever. So don't be surprised if neutral is harder to find especially when cold.

It now makes sense why he would say to adjust the clutch pressure screw that way. By doing it that way, it gives you every thousand of an inch you can steal for pack separation.

I would identify and fix this issue first. Clutch trouble - Harley Davidson Forums - HDTimeline.com

Otherwise you may start stacking problems.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

Now screw it in until you feel it touch the rod running thru the tranny to your clutch cable side of the tranny. You should feel the tension as you touch the rod.

This is the step that causes the most doubt IMHO. It's kind of a gray area as far as when it actually touches. When I do it, I repeat this step 5 or 10 times, going a little more or a little less each time, until I feel like I have the best idea of where the initial touch takes place.

 

[ausibatla]

Thanks for your input guys. I'm waiting on some parts and will have it all back together in a couple of days.
I will let you know how it goes.
Cheers.
:cheers
:AUSTRALIA

 

[Jennmarr]

I think I saw someone else mention this as part of another discussion, but I believe it bears mentioning again. Make sure the clutch diaphragm spring is adjusted correctly before you make any other adjustments. If it is not set correctly, you will never get the clutch adjustment right. If that spring is off in one direction, the lever pull will be very stiff. Off in the other direction and neutral will be nearly impossible to find. Good luck.

 

[FerrousBueller]

In reading clutch adj. for a '88 Springer, I would say Not to screw it in so tight that the plates begin to separate. The book says to Loosen the cable for total slack, then loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjusting screw. Make sure your locking nut is backed off quite a bit. Make sure your front tire is pointed forward, not turned left or right. That can change the pull on the cable somewhat. Then back out the adj. screw in the center of the clutch hub, Now screw it in until you feel it touch the rod running thru the tranny to your clutch cable side of the tranny. You should feel the tension as you touch the rod. At that point turn the adj. screw counter clockwise 3/4 turn out. Lock the lock nut down while holding the adj. screw in place. Now go back and adj. your cable for 1/8-3/16 free play, where the cable ferrule enters the perch. Pull your clutch 4-5 times then recheck your free play. If needed readjust the cable for the proper free play.
I have never adjusted a clutch the way your friend stated.
I think in a previous post you said you were going to disassemble your clutch. If you do look at the 4 post that the 4 bolts holding the pressure plate and pressure spring on. Once they are removed you can see the post in the inner clutch hub. They have been known to break off from over torquing. The adj. method stated here on the forum should also work.
Keep us posted.
tourbox

I haven't seen it yet on this thread so, I'll add this...
Make certain your bike and clutch are absolutely cold!

Cheers!
Ferrous

 

[ausibatla]

Clutch & neutral problems solved

Thanks to everyone who helped me with these problems. You've all been very helpful.
I fitted the Easyboy Lite Clutch Kit and I'll praise it every chance I get. The clutch is much lighter now. I also added a new clutch cable, though once removed the old one was still O.K. so will leave on shelf as a spare. Fitted a new neutral switch, a mongrel of a job but worth it in the end. The old one had half the retractable ball bearing worn away and it was jammed and not moving anyway and the connection to it was filthy. Adjusted the clutch using the method described by you blokes as well as watching and feeling the movement. When finished I could select neutral fairly easily with the light on in only the neutral position and not 1st., 2nd and 5th. as well. And the clutch was working great and feels so easy to pull in.
We solved the neutral selection problem, the heavy clutch and the clutch adjustment. We had a very pleasing win. So all in all thanks again.
Cheers.
:cheers
:AUSTRALIA

 

[Bodeen]

Re: Clutch & neutral problems solved

I moved the above post to the original thread so that the resolution is with the original thread. :s

 

[tourbox]

Re: Clutch & neutral problems solved

ausibatla; glad you got it fixed. Sounds like you are really pleased. Congrats. again.
tourbox