Cam tensioners?
- Thread starter protege1
- Start date
tourbox
Senior Member
I assume you are talking about your '04 RK you mentioned in Introduction post. Go this this web for Cyco tensioners. http://twincamtensioner.com/ They are pretty much recommended by most here. Dolt may chime in, he's more familiar with them than me.
tourbox
tourbox
The cheapest solution will be to just replace the spring tensioner shoes with new ones. But you have a tensioner on the outboard side of the cam support plate, and another on the inboard side. So you will have to pull the cam plate and the oil pump. Get the Factory Service Manual and make sure you know what is involved. Get the kits that include the orings and gasket you will need to reassemble. And you will need to decide if you are going to try and save the pushrods or replace them with adjustable ones. If the former, you will have to pull some of the top end. If yours lifters seem OK, you can probably reinstall the ones you have. Mark which lifter comes from each hole.
I also suggest that you plan to replace the INA inner cam shaft bearings with the Torringtons. The are far superior to the cheap INA bearings, and replacing them will at least give you that peace of mind.
Take pix and post your job when you are done.
Cheers,
TQ
I also suggest that you plan to replace the INA inner cam shaft bearings with the Torringtons. The are far superior to the cheap INA bearings, and replacing them will at least give you that peace of mind.
Take pix and post your job when you are done.
Cheers,
TQ
ThunderRogue
Active Member
You can do most of the work yourself with maybe making some of your tools. I made my own tensioner spring holders. You can just use a small drill bit, but I made some out of some steel rod and put a loop on the end and then dipped the loops in red plasti coat. They now look just like the ones you buy! I also use wire shaped into "W's" and along with "veggie" type rubber bands use them to hold the push rod tubes up. Just loop the rubber bands over the bolts on the rocker boxes. If you don't have a press for the cams, most shops will just charge 1/2 hr bench work time. Take your time and mind the torque specs.
dolt
Well-Known Member
Not going to get into the weeds on this one but will hit the high points. Assuming that the OP is looking for the "least expensive" replacement, the CYCO tensioners are the way to go; half the price of the OEM tensioners without the potential for catastrophic failure. CYCO does not sell retail but their tensioners have been sold on EBay by Catalyst Cycles and other vendors. Not identified as CYCO shoes but that's what they are. The OP will need the install tool as well for an easy install.
Replacing the inner cam bearings with Torrington/Timken B148s is a good idea. The OP will need to borrow the blind hole puller/collet set from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto to remove the bearings which can be installed by using a cam shaft to tap the bearings into the bores. Freeze the bearings over night, liberally apply assembly lube to the bearings and bores and, carefully, tap them into place, numbers facing out. The key is to get the bearing started straight into the bore; if it is, it will go in with light tapping.
The OP should Google the "oven/freezer" method for the cam R/R, or as has been suggested, take the cams to a shop for the R/R.
The cam plate and oil pump will have to be removed and the oil pump alignment procedure as described in the OEM service manual should be followed.
Since the "least expensive" route seems to be the goal, that would assume that the OEM pushrods will be re-used. They will have to be R/Rd from the top which will require removal of the rocker box covers and loosening the rocker support plate. This means that before doing that, the OP needs to have the valve train "unloaded"; both valves closed on the cylinder before loosening the rocker supports. Typically on a touring model, the rear cylinder can be frustrating but it can be done. If the lifters have less than 25K miles on them, no need to replace. If they need replacement, the CompCams VThunder 850-1 lifters are the least expensive replacement. TQuentin mentioned marking the lifters so they can be re-installed in their original bore; do the same with the pushrods.
If I was the OP, I would not DIY this little project without the OEM service manual for his bike; not a Clymer or off brand manual but the HD manual. Read through the appropriate section several times just become familiar with the scope of work.This is not a difficult DIYproject but does require attention to detail, reading the manual and taking one step at a time.
Well, I tried to stay out of the weeds.
Replacing the inner cam bearings with Torrington/Timken B148s is a good idea. The OP will need to borrow the blind hole puller/collet set from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto to remove the bearings which can be installed by using a cam shaft to tap the bearings into the bores. Freeze the bearings over night, liberally apply assembly lube to the bearings and bores and, carefully, tap them into place, numbers facing out. The key is to get the bearing started straight into the bore; if it is, it will go in with light tapping.
The OP should Google the "oven/freezer" method for the cam R/R, or as has been suggested, take the cams to a shop for the R/R.
The cam plate and oil pump will have to be removed and the oil pump alignment procedure as described in the OEM service manual should be followed.
Since the "least expensive" route seems to be the goal, that would assume that the OEM pushrods will be re-used. They will have to be R/Rd from the top which will require removal of the rocker box covers and loosening the rocker support plate. This means that before doing that, the OP needs to have the valve train "unloaded"; both valves closed on the cylinder before loosening the rocker supports. Typically on a touring model, the rear cylinder can be frustrating but it can be done. If the lifters have less than 25K miles on them, no need to replace. If they need replacement, the CompCams VThunder 850-1 lifters are the least expensive replacement. TQuentin mentioned marking the lifters so they can be re-installed in their original bore; do the same with the pushrods.
If I was the OP, I would not DIY this little project without the OEM service manual for his bike; not a Clymer or off brand manual but the HD manual. Read through the appropriate section several times just become familiar with the scope of work.This is not a difficult DIYproject but does require attention to detail, reading the manual and taking one step at a time.
Well, I tried to stay out of the weeds.
ThunderRogue
Active Member
Nice try. Do you need a new line for your weed whacker now? LOL! Good post.
That's the great thing about dolt, ask him what-time it is and he'll tell you how to build a watch.
dolt
Well-Known Member
That's the great thing about dolt, ask him what-time it is and he'll tell you how to build a watch.
Sorry guys. I do try to be as brief as possible but I hate reading general replies to questions that leave the OP with more questions. I either need to reply to try and answer all the questions a poster might have or not reply at all.
RibEye
Senior Member
Keep on keeping on.Sorry guys. I do try to be as brief as possible but I hate reading general replies to questions that leave the OP with more questions. I either need to reply to try and answer all the questions a poster might have or not reply at all.
Enjoy,
Rich P