Posted by "BUBBIE"...
As far as the clunking and grind goes in a tranny, You may need a Proper Clutch adjustment..
(some may want to read/try this as it WORKS)
If you do the work on your bike follow this, when Cold.... Slacken the cable adjuster fully.
Take off the derby cover off and insert an allen wrench so you don't move the Bolt While You loosen the lock nut several turns out for clearance....
Watch very careful and Count the turns IN (right) the allen wrench makes Clutch Bolt turn UNTIL it touches the clutch(stops)..
YOU want to know this number... Just to see how far your clutch was OUT of adjustment....IF it is Only a 1/2 turn in to touch, it was NOT out of adjustment but IF MORE than a 1/2 turn, it was Out of adjustment.The Amount of turn IN tells you how much out it was.
Now lets adjust your clutch.
After you have Hand turned NO FORCE just easy turns IN that you Kept Track of, using the long allen part into the bolt and the little 90* for the handle part, (no force needed for this adjustment)
Turn clutch bolt IN until it "Lightly touches" (snug by hand only),,,THEN back OUT exactly 1/2 turn (looking at the 90* of the allen wrench for the dimension) from the IN lightly stopped position...
Mind you, the center allen bolt is JUST Touching IN against the clutch where it goes tight and was not turned Hard (it will be almost finger tight but Firm to touch the clutch in and stop)...
Now go back to the adjustment.
Exactly 1/2 turn out and HOLD so it doesn't move, snug the lock nut MAKING sure the center bolt Didn't Move either direction OFF the 1/2 turn out position. Very Important dimension to hold.
Should be done here. SO Next...
Go turn the slacked cable adjuster back OUT (lengthen back out) It will be close to Where it was before, but adjust it properly.
Your adjustment clutch cable Clearance is taken at the ferrel end of cable, where the cable touches inside the clutch handle Bracket.. When it is close to tight, Pull on the cable housing to SEE How far cable PULLS out from that tight position of the clutch handle bracket at the handle bar.
Finished adjustment here...
Shooting for 1/16" to a 1/8" maximum clearance, keep snugging the adjuster until you get this clearance right.
Put the derby cover on and your clutch should be good to go.
It should have plenty of clutch separation and work properly adjusted this way. The clutch handle should start to grab the clutch at about a full 1" or more OUT from the handle bar..
Try THIS when you first start out, engine running and ready to ride, squeeze the clutch handle in and count 5 seconds, Then put it into First gear, NO noise is more than likely the finding now..
Shifting will be easier and quieter not only because of the Best Lube in the Tranny (redline shockproof heavy) but also the proper clutch adjustment done.
NOTE: All clutch adjustments should be performed on an entirely cold drive train.
Now go Ride.
signed....BUBBIE
As far as the clunking and grind goes in a tranny, You may need a Proper Clutch adjustment..
(some may want to read/try this as it WORKS)
If you do the work on your bike follow this, when Cold.... Slacken the cable adjuster fully.
Take off the derby cover off and insert an allen wrench so you don't move the Bolt While You loosen the lock nut several turns out for clearance....
Watch very careful and Count the turns IN (right) the allen wrench makes Clutch Bolt turn UNTIL it touches the clutch(stops)..
YOU want to know this number... Just to see how far your clutch was OUT of adjustment....IF it is Only a 1/2 turn in to touch, it was NOT out of adjustment but IF MORE than a 1/2 turn, it was Out of adjustment.The Amount of turn IN tells you how much out it was.
Now lets adjust your clutch.
After you have Hand turned NO FORCE just easy turns IN that you Kept Track of, using the long allen part into the bolt and the little 90* for the handle part, (no force needed for this adjustment)
Turn clutch bolt IN until it "Lightly touches" (snug by hand only),,,THEN back OUT exactly 1/2 turn (looking at the 90* of the allen wrench for the dimension) from the IN lightly stopped position...
Mind you, the center allen bolt is JUST Touching IN against the clutch where it goes tight and was not turned Hard (it will be almost finger tight but Firm to touch the clutch in and stop)...
Now go back to the adjustment.
Exactly 1/2 turn out and HOLD so it doesn't move, snug the lock nut MAKING sure the center bolt Didn't Move either direction OFF the 1/2 turn out position. Very Important dimension to hold.
Should be done here. SO Next...
Go turn the slacked cable adjuster back OUT (lengthen back out) It will be close to Where it was before, but adjust it properly.
Your adjustment clutch cable Clearance is taken at the ferrel end of cable, where the cable touches inside the clutch handle Bracket.. When it is close to tight, Pull on the cable housing to SEE How far cable PULLS out from that tight position of the clutch handle bracket at the handle bar.
Finished adjustment here...
Shooting for 1/16" to a 1/8" maximum clearance, keep snugging the adjuster until you get this clearance right.
Put the derby cover on and your clutch should be good to go.
It should have plenty of clutch separation and work properly adjusted this way. The clutch handle should start to grab the clutch at about a full 1" or more OUT from the handle bar..
Try THIS when you first start out, engine running and ready to ride, squeeze the clutch handle in and count 5 seconds, Then put it into First gear, NO noise is more than likely the finding now..
Shifting will be easier and quieter not only because of the Best Lube in the Tranny (redline shockproof heavy) but also the proper clutch adjustment done.
NOTE: All clutch adjustments should be performed on an entirely cold drive train.
Now go Ride.
signed....BUBBIE
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