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Break In For An Engine Upgrade

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The only parts on your new upgraded 95 inch TC engine that need break in are the piston rings and cylinder walls they run on. This can and should be done over a very short time and distance, a few miles and a few minutes in fact.

The proven and best way to accomplish this is to load the rings against the walls of the cylinders by accelerating at full throttle. Here is how you go about seating your new piston rings.

1. Do NOT start the engine untill you are ready to ride the bike.

2. After starting the motor, get out on the road and into third gear.

3. Accelerate near full throttle from 30 to 60 MPH in third gear.

4. Close the throttle and coast back down to 30 MPH. This insures that both the top and bottom of the rings are loaded equally for best seating.

5. Repeat this full throttle and coast down proceedure a total of 10 times.

6. The rings are now seated and you can ride normally. I would however
keep the speed to a reasonable limit and vary it on the parkways with no lugging and no constant high RPM's.

You should get good service out of the motor after following these procedures.

Also see this...

Engine Break In For New Motors - Harley Davidson Community


These are the instructions that S&S furnishes.

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning to the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don’t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.

E.
The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles. Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S® voids its guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
 
This is a very popular topic of late and I have a question which I would appreciate some comments or answers to:

I am getting my 883 Sportster converted to 1200 in early Jan. My local dealership is in town with busy multi-lane carriageways, traffic lights and a series of roundabouts right outside - in other words - no chance safely to do 30-60-30x10 in 3rd safely or without being nicked by the Feds.

I have three questions:

First off - does the ring seating exercise have to be carried out in 3rd gear? Could it not be done at a correspondingly lower speed in 1st or in 2nd (maybe 10-40-10 in 1st or a bit more in 2nd?)? The rate of piston movement could be the same but is there a difference within the cylinders regarding this process which reflects the gear you are in?

The second question may seem stupid - forgive my ignorance - I recently (before I decided on going ahead with the conversion) changed over from dino to Mobil 1 v twin 20/50. When they do the rebore - is all the engine oil drained out first and replaced? Will be a big waste if it is :(.

The third question isn't specifically related this this thread: of those of you who have done the same upgrade - have you changed the pulley wheel for the drive belt on the rear wheel to that of a factory produced 1200 or have you left it with the 883 original drive belt wheel?

Thanks for any answers or comments folks. :D
 
Doing an 883 to 1200 upgrade there is no need to drain the engine oil as its the heads and barrels that are off however if the crankcase is not fully covered at all times when its apart debris can fall into the crankcase this all depends on how thorough your mechanic is id tend to run it home from dealer and change oil and filter just to be sure
if you leave all the gearing as it is then your bike will accelerate quicker than a stock 1200 but a stock 1200 would have a higher top speed id keep the stock 883 setup but perhaps if you hope to regularly be running over the ton then perhaps think about the gearing

Brian
 
Doing an 883 to 1200 upgrade there is no need to drain the engine oil as its the heads and barrels that are off however if the crankcase is not fully covered at all times when its apart debris can fall into the crankcase this all depends on how thorough your mechanic is id tend to run it home from dealer and change oil and filter just to be sure
if you leave all the gearing as it is then your bike will accelerate quicker than a stock 1200 but a stock 1200 would have a higher top speed id keep the stock 883 setup but perhaps if you hope to regularly be running over the ton then perhaps think about the gearing

Brian

No Brian, as I said to Hobbit - I like the better acceleration more than the more-than-a-ton speed. I'm happier going a bit slower than that but I like loads of torque. :D I'll see how it goes.
 
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