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Accessory Socket Wiring - Touring Models

RetroRocker

Member
My first post on HDtalking ... so hello !

I'm struggling with that electrical accessory socket on my 07 Ultra Glide. Before you ask ... yes I've found it, no it's not the datalink socket and I've read Glider's excellent self help tip post about this socket. Need a little more clarity though ...

Regarding the brake light wire in this socket (that's red/with yellow stripe on mine). This may be a stupid question but is this also switched ? I'm aware that I have a power supply for ignition on only and ignition on / console switch on but that brake light wire ... just literally an extension of the brake light wire to the back of the bike or switched by the accessory switch ?

Reason for asking is that I'm installing some 'HyperLites' LEDs and I simply wanted my running lights to function just like the taillight and be on any time the ignition is on. The flashing brake lights need to be switched though 'cos they're not quite legal :reyes ... so that's where my accessory switch comes in, rather than install another switch. Problem is, the 'HyperLites' controller has separate inputs for running and brake lights but of course only one common wire. The accessory switch provides a power supply and if I try to switch my flashing brake lights through this then I push extra power through which blows my brake/cruise fuse ... not very clever. So that's why I'm wondering if my final option with the accessory switch is a 'switched' brake wire.

thanks
 
:newsmile040: If I understand your question somewhat, the brake circuit in that plug is switched and would operate much the same as the brake light on the fender. (Red wire with white tracer)

accplug6.jpg
 
Not sure if I understand problem. I added some additional brake lights on my 09 by using a trailer wire connection device I got from J&P cycles. This way I didn't have to cut into factory wires or have to bring it all the way from the accessory plug. I also put a brake flasher in the system and it works great. In fact I moved the whole system from my '00 to the '09. Wires are all hidden under the seat. I hope this helps!
 
Glider & tkeswede : my thanks to both for the ideas and sorry if it was not particularly clear what I was trying to do.
I have now fixed this problem and like so often it turned out to be very straightforward in the end ... you guys may be familiar with the old saying of ... 'cannot see the wood for the trees' :s

If it benefits then this is what I wanted to do ...

1. Fit a 'HyperLites' LED running lights / modulated brake light system to my O7 Ultra, employing the console accessory switch BUT splitting the running lights from the brake lights so that the former operated at the same time as the taillight (ie. ign. only on) and the latter as switchable through the console switch (ie. ign. on / switch on) because these do not need to work at errrr ... certain times :s

2. As far as the wiring goes :
a. Connect BLACK common from 'Deutsch' acc. connector to BLACK 'HyperLites' common.
b. Connect ORANGE +12vdc (BELOW the common) from 'Deutsch' acc. connector to RED 'HyperLites' brake light sensor wire. (this is the switched power from the accessory circuit)
c. Connect ORANGE +12vdc (NEXT TO the common ... note this wire is green in Glider's diagram for the Road King but orange on the 07 Glide) from 'Deutsch' acc. connector to GREY 'HyperLites' running light sensor wire. (this is the unswitched, ign. only on, power from the accessory circuit)
d. Forget about the PosiTap connectors provided by 'HyperLites' you don't need them, which is where I went wrong. I wired for a 'normal' install as per the 'HyperLites' instructions THEN tried to wire through the accessory switch, doubled up on power and got SAVED by the brake/cruise fuse. :)

That sorted it. Now I have LED running lights at ign. on but the modulating brake light function (the illegal bit) is switched, on demand, via the console accessory switch as required.

'HyperLites' couldn't figure this out because they had no familiarity with the HD accessory switch but if this helps anyone else ... then good !

cheers

RR
 
RetroRocker, welcome to the HDTimeline forum and for your very informative posts. You clarified a number of things, first...no substitution to old fashioned rolling up your sleeves and doing some honest to gosh troubleshooting,; second...you did the smart thing by utilizing the bits of info you needed and clarified and worked a new application out with rather well read troubleshooting skill. Well done and your extended HD family here offer you a sixpack...Cheers!:cheers
 
Well hi to you guys too ... thank you for the greeting, it's appreciated.

BTW : I should mention that the wiring I quoted in my previous post does NOT use the 'HyperLites' modulated brake lights as actual brake lights ... simply because this way they are not wired into a brake light line. This is intentional because, as in this country and I guess in many US states, they are not legal. How you approach that is a matter of personal preference. :s The wiring stated though does give you permanent running lights and modulated brake lights through the accessory switch ... just turn them on/off as it suits. I find this really useful as a road captain, especially if I'm at the back of a slow moving pack, to give a really visible warning to approaching vehicles.

cheers RR
 
:newsmile040: If I understand your question somewhat, the brake circuit in that plug is switched and would operate much the same as the brake light on the fender. (Red wire with white tracer)

accplug6.jpg


I ran a hard wire for my GPS using the switched accessory connector. I tried using the diagram, but the hot with ignition and hot with ignition and accessory switch on were reversed on my 2009 Ultra. The weird problem I am having is that when I hit either the front or rear brake, the power drops from 12.43 volts to 12.08 volts and the GPS begins to turn off. As soon as I release the brake, the GPS comes back on. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix this?
 
I happens at all different idle speeds. I tried pushing the rear brake pedal when the idle speed was about 2500 rpm, while riding down the road, and the GPS immediately showed a message that it had lost power. When I lifted off the brake, the screen saying that power had been lost disappeared.
 
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