92-93 1340 EVO Base Gasket
- Thread starter flhx07
- Start date
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Check the case studs, make sure they are tight, if in doubt replace them. Follow all Torque with Quality gaskets like James or Cosmetic:s
Nothing particularly difficult in doing this job if you have some mechanical experience and suitable tools for the job
The worst bit of the job is cleaning old gasket from the lower rocker cover and the base gasket
i would hope that you are using all new gaskets all the way check carefully on the new head gasket as the newer gasket requires the o rings to be removed from the cylinder dowels
If you have any questions just ask i have the 91/92 softail factory service manual at hand
Brian
The worst bit of the job is cleaning old gasket from the lower rocker cover and the base gasket
i would hope that you are using all new gaskets all the way check carefully on the new head gasket as the newer gasket requires the o rings to be removed from the cylinder dowels
If you have any questions just ask i have the 91/92 softail factory service manual at hand
Brian
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Harley Davidson Community Here is a link to Cosmetic Gaskets As Brian said the gasket surface prep is the hardest part here, take care not to nick the sealing surfaces Gasket Removers Check here for products for removing the gaskets
Breeze3at
Experienced Member
Is your '99 shop manual for Softails? Other '99's were twin cams, and have differences in reassembly procedures.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Very good point Breeze, I would add as long as you are this far might as well complete the job with new rings and a fresh valve job if it is in your budget. Pay attention to the thickness of the gaskets you will use it can make a difference in compression ratio
Yes the manual is an HD 1999 Soft Tail Service Manual.
The 1994 FLSTF only has 14k miles on it. The engine has never been opened before. I will be using James base and head gasket with OEM rocker gaskets. Would you recommend removing and replacing the rear rocker arm push rod cover gaskets too?
I also plan on leaving the piston in the cylinder. I was thinking I only need to remove one wrist pin retaining clip...."But" should I replace both of them I am replacing the clip that I removed. Should I remove and replace both clips?
Do you recommend removing the top and front engine mounts to lower the engine? It's the rear base gasket that I am replacing.
I'm doing this for a good friend of mine and I want to ensure I do a great job for him so any other comments or suggestions while I have broke down that far would really be appreciated.
Thank you
Would you recommend using a "very thin" coat of Hylomar Uniblue on the base gasket?
The 1994 FLSTF only has 14k miles on it. The engine has never been opened before. I will be using James base and head gasket with OEM rocker gaskets. Would you recommend removing and replacing the rear rocker arm push rod cover gaskets too?
I also plan on leaving the piston in the cylinder. I was thinking I only need to remove one wrist pin retaining clip...."But" should I replace both of them I am replacing the clip that I removed. Should I remove and replace both clips?
Do you recommend removing the top and front engine mounts to lower the engine? It's the rear base gasket that I am replacing.
I'm doing this for a good friend of mine and I want to ensure I do a great job for him so any other comments or suggestions while I have broke down that far would really be appreciated.
Thank you
Would you recommend using a "very thin" coat of Hylomar Uniblue on the base gasket?
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J
Jack Klarich
Guest
For a leak free job I would replace all the gaskets in the kit, follow the instructions supplied. Make sure ALL surfaces are clean and dry of all materials. As far as the mounts, any thing to get access to the rear bolts will be a big plus IMO The wrist pin C clips, I would replace ALL of them and make sure they are seated. I have pulled cylinders off with out removing pistons, you have to be careful the pistons do not hit the cylinder studs
If you were doing the base gasket would "you" remove the piston or would you keep it attached to the connecting rod? I'm trying to minimize the possibility of things going wrong to ensure a quality repair.
Thank you Jack
Breeze3at
Experienced Member
If you have 4 hands, I'd prefer to leave the piston in the cylinder. I just feel better not having them exposed and the rings getting moved around. As the Softail has a solid mounted engine, I don't see the benefit of loosening the motor mounts (except the frame to heads "y" brace). If you have a problem getting the rear rocker cover off, turn the engine over so the exhaust valve is open. That will give you a little more clearance. When reassembling the rocker box be real careful setting one piece on top of the other. Those skinny gaskets slip easy and you will soon be leaking.