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2010 Ultra Classic running hot

tubguy

tubguy

Active Member
Looking for some information and ideas, have a 10 ultra classic with a stock 96 that seems to run very hot. it doesn't matter what time of day or evening that I'm ridding the back cylinder always kicks out when i come to a stop and idle. Just seems to never want to keep firing both cylinders., is there a known problem and what kinda of suggestions does anyone have.Also i was told my dealer if i install a fuel mapping system other than harley warranty is void!!!! Whats up with this. love the bike but worried about the yellow tape.
 
Welcome Tubguy to the HDTimeline forum. First of all where are you located and how hot is the ambient temperature outside? The rear cylinder should not cut out UNLESS eminent overheating is beginning to be sensed and rear cylinder fire is being suppressed by the on board processor module. When you "bump" the throttle, does the rear fire return as it "supposed to"? There may be a Service Bulletin that fixes the symptom/problem and allow the idle to speed up...maintaining oil pressure and full operation.
 
Since I've been on the forum, I've seen many complaints about heat and the 2010 bikes, including my own. Everything from what you're describing to one other member complaining that the bikes heat is burning his wifes feet. It all seems to come down to those stock headers with the CAT's in them along with the stock fuel mapping. I too was afraid to change the stock equipment on my bike, fearing the voided warranty, but after dealing with a different dealer and reading the many posts on this forum, I ended up making changes that eliminated my heat issues. I ended up getting rid of the stock header and added a power commander. Not only does it run cooler, but also much better. My bike has the 103, which may even run hotter than the 96. Now maybe your bike has another problem causing the excessive heat that needs attention, but this was what I experienced.

The whole warranty thing has been debated here alot and there are others that I'm sure will add to this topic that may help you with your decision.
 
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tubguy; adding aftermarket tuner won't void warranty, unless HD can prove it caused engine damage to your bike. As stated - your dealer would gladly install HD's tuner(s) - they're out for a sale...;-) Did they offer any other suggestion, or resolutions to your heat issue?

Go back & re-address, or visit another dealer & compare their recommendations. You're running lean & the CAT isn't helping so need to make some adjustments. I'd start w/tuner & suggest Dobeck TFI. Many forum members use/recommend this product b/c it's easy to install & adjust. From there - see how the bike responds & then possibly look into intake & exhaust options. Good luck!
 
Tubguy, welcome to the forum. There are quite a few things you can do for the heat, I'm sure many will chime in. As far as the rear cylinder kicking out at idle when it is hot I believe there is a function where the bike does that automatically to try and remove some of the heat. As soon as you twist the throttle it is supposed to kick it back in. There is a way to disengage that but you will have to look in your owners manual it's pretty easy to do I think.
 
I had to drop my 09 RG off for some fly by wire issues on Sunday. I installed a TFI, V&H pipes and Ness Big Sucker AC almost 2 yrs ago. No issues. They did all the warranty work on my fly by wire and never said a thing when I picked it up on Tuesday. I've had all my service work done by them, got a pre-purchased agreement when I bought the bike, and the dealer said nothing.

Now my 09 RG didn't have the cat in the headpipe, but it was hot. After adding the stage 1, it ran cooler (still hot but not 2nd degree burns hot) and loved the outcome.

With the cat in the headpipe, I think you have to work around it (adding pipes, tuner, and AC) or replace the headpipe with a V&H powerduals, Fuel Moto x pipe, etc...

Good luck and enjoy the cooler weather this Fall and Winter!

Ride safe and have fun.
 
I am beginning to think the heat generated on these engines (96 Twin Cam and later) is just a fact of life. My 2009 with stock pipes, no cats, will kick into heat management mode sitting at a LONG light on what seems to be a pleasant day. My fuel maps are as rich as can be (all cells open loop) and still with long idles my engine goes into heat management. I am still running Dino crankcase oil and read that running synthetic would reduce internal engine friction and some heat but who knows by how much.

I have come to the conclusion that once your crankcase, primary and transmission are all Hot, there is just no place you can sink any more heat and you must begin to move. You don't have to be moving fast,,, just moving and not sitting still. For me, software heat management kicks in when the front cylinder reaches 314*.

I wish I had an engine I could disable heat management on & just let it sit and idle for hours on a 100+* day just to see what would happen to it.

We are all Sharks (starting with 96") and must keep moving to stay alive.:p
 
Hoople said:
We are all Sharks (starting with 96") and must keep moving to stay alive.:p
Click to expand...

Truer words were never spoken! It's a touring bike and it lives for the open road, not stop and go traffic. The previous posts ref tuners is all spot on.

I would add that going synthetic is also a good idea, as well as adding an oil cooler and perhaps a cooling fan. Friend of mine has your bike with the cat and installed the Lenale cooling fan. Sure moves a lot of air!
 
Hoople said:
I am beginning to think the heat generated on these engines (96 Twin Cam and later) is just a fact of life. My 2009 with stock pipes, no cats, will kick into heat management mode sitting at a LONG light on what seems to be a pleasant day. My fuel maps are as rich as can be (all cells open loop) and still with long idles my engine goes into heat management. I am still running Dino crankcase oil and read that running synthetic would reduce internal engine friction and some heat but who knows by how much.

I have come to the conclusion that once your crankcase, primary and transmission are all Hot, there is just no place you can sink any more heat and you must begin to move. You don't have to be moving fast,,, just moving and not sitting still. For me, software heat management kicks in when the front cylinder reaches 314*.

I wish I had an engine I could disable heat management on & just let it sit and idle for hours on a 100+* day just to see what would happen to it.

We are all Sharks (starting with 96") and must keep moving to stay alive.:p
Click to expand...

Very well said Hoop, holds true for any air cooled bike:s
 
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