2002 88b best dual cam options stay with OEM or replace with S&S Drive Cams

[grumpygrandpa]

I have been told that the 88B motors should be fitted with the S&S 475G .475 Lift Gear Drive Cams + Install Kit Camshafts Harley 88 Twin Cam. and this will solve the timing chain and tensioner plastic foot issues of wearing out and putting plastic in the oil. I have the 2002 88b running an oil cooler with 50k and changed out the four cam bearings and both cam chains and tensioners. has anybody done this S&S modification or is it better to just run with the oem set up and inspect the tensioners every 10k-15k? I was told the S&S cams will make the engine run better as well. just wanting a little more input before I spend any money on this upgrade. the stock cam chain tensioners lasted 50k miles before I replaced them.

 

[Breeze3at]

A question with as many answers/opinions as people that will read this. Considerations; what model softail (weight factors into cam selection), what type of riding do you do most, on and on with the questions. MY opinion is that you got 50k miles on tensioner shoes that have a reputation for wearing out @ 25-30K miles, The sharp parts of your cam chain have worn by now and the next set of shoes will last at least as long as the OEM did. The bike is 20+ yrs. old stick with what has worked so far. If you really want to spend money, put the upgraded cam plate/roller chain assembly in about $600 for parts only. Gear drive cams require specific crankshaft runout and tend to be a bit noisy. Just an opinion, good luck on making a decision

 

[Frenchie]

On your year bike I believe that the pinion gear run out is .003 max, but harley had increased the run out on newer bikes to .010 or even .012 that is crazy. But anyway I would stay away from the gear driven cams as the pinion gear run out has to be below .003 as stated above if you have the money the best upgrade would be to replace the cam plate and oil pump, as in your year bike you have the coil over springs attached to the cam chain tensioners that apply to much tension on the cam chains. The new set up had hydraulic controlled cam tensioners that apply less of a load. As far as a cam get one that meets your riding style. I would stay away from a .475 lift cam unless you are doing motor upgrades, though they say it is a bolt in cam you are at the upper threshold as far as lift is concerned. If you want to save the money keep it stock but check the cam chain tensioners every 15,000 miles. Just make sure you replace the inner cam bearings to Torrington bearings and inspect the hydraulic lifter bearings. It is your call, just make sure if you do upgrades that you research the specs as you want everything to play nice in the sand box. Do what meets your needs and budget and not what someone tells you is best because they did that.

 

[grumpygrandpa]

Thank you for the info very helpful messages. the cam tensioners at 50k where still doing their job, when I replaced them. I guess I just got lucky. the oem bearings where in great shape when I replaced them with Jims's bearings and cam chains. As you know the oem inter cam bearings have a design flaw. the bike runs perfect with no issues. I was leaning to just replacing the tensioners when they start to show signs of being worn out again. I was going to just ride the bike for another 50k. then have the motor completely rebuilt. I think it was the oil changes and the cooler I installed on the bike from day one, which helped to keep the bike running cooler and protecting the motor. I saw an 88b being overhauled in the machine shop when the cam bearings failed, it was pretty. Thanks again and keep the shiny side up.

 

[ThunderRogue]

A well kept stock 88B motor will run fine with the mods you have done. As you mentioned you keep up with the maintenance. I'd suggest opening your oil filter every change and inspecting the media. Any deteriorating tensioner pad material will show up there. Since you've got that many miles on it in stock configuration why change what's working with your riding style?

 

[dolt]

I will be the outlier. The problem with the OEM tensioners is that they can fail, catastrophically, without warning and cause major damage. Just because they look like they are wearing evenly with no issues doesn't necessariy mean they will look good 10K miles later, The outer tensioner on my '02 FLHT was gone at 25K miles; I caught just as the chain was eating into the meatl carrier. The outer tensioner on my '05 FXSTD was cracked and coming apart at 12K miles. Gear driven cams are fine for the OP's model and configuration; never worrie about tensioner wear again. The 2002 models ran a hot forged crank and the Timken tapered left side crank bearing; near bullet proof bottom end and crank issues like excessive runout are very rare. Two cam choices are the Andrews 26 or the S&S 509; both will provide a noticeable difference in performance. If the bike is carbed, re-jetting the carb is necessary and the addition of a progammable ignition like the TwinTec TC88 should be considered to control timing. The stock timing is fairly advaced for aftermarket cam profiles. If EFI, a dyno tune will optiimize performance.

As long as cam lift is less than .510", no worries/ valve springs will accomodate and some have gotten away with .525" If eplace the OEM tensioners with a set of CYCO tensioners; check every 25K miles. The OEM oil pump is more than adequate for a Stage 1/Stage2 configuration.

As ususal, JMHO.